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Thread: Valve Clearance Check

  1. #1
    Senior Member treybrad's Avatar
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    Valve Clearance Check

    I checked my clearances today for the first time at 9,763 miles. I know, I'm over the 8k spec, but.... oh well. I didn't document this enough to really call it a how to, but here are some bigger pics to help supplement the shop manual's 'pictures'...

    I'm no mechanic... I'm handy enough, and have a pretty well stocked garage of tools, and checking the valves on the NC is a doddle. If you have any mechanical inclination, save yourself some money and get you hands dirty for a couple hours -- you can do it with basic tools, nothing out of the ordinary.

    First, as always, is start with a cold bike. Mine sat overnight, which is recommended.


    NC700X Valve Check 004 by treybrad, on Flickr

    I bought 2 qts of coolant. Capacity is only 1.79 qts, and I wasn't sure how much I'd lose out of the radiator -- it ended up being less than a quart, so you only need to buy one.


    NC700X Valve Check 003 by treybrad, on Flickr

    I started about 11a....


    NC700X Valve Check 009 by treybrad, on Flickr

    The entire procedure is lined out really well in the manual -- page 3-10. Worth every penny. The manual says remove the radiator. I know some people have managed without removing it completely, but after working in incredibly cramped conditions checking valves on my last bike, I gladly removed it so I had as much room as I could. And with it removed.... there's a LOT of room -- awesome.


    NC700X Valve Check 011 by treybrad, on Flickr


    NC700X Valve Check 010 by treybrad, on Flickr

    Three bolts later, the valve cover pops right off and everything is very straightforward.


    NC700X Valve Check 013 by treybrad, on Flickr


    NC700X Valve Check 014 by treybrad, on Flickr

    Get your feeler gauges out and check the clearances once you have the motor in the correct position. Mine were like this:

    Cyl 1 -- Intakes both at .17mm, bang on spec. One exhaust valve was tight at .23mm and one was at the lower end of spec at .26mm -- spec is .28mm +- .02mm.

    Cyl 2 -- Intakes both at .17mm. Exhausts were both at .25mm.

    I've never had such an easy adjustment procedure. Took me maybe 5 minutes being overly cautious to adjust and triple check each valve.

    Buttoned her all back up, filled up and burped the cooling system and was done before 1p.


    NC700X Valve Check 015 by treybrad, on Flickr

    So there you have it -- not bad at all. I took my sweet time. Now that I know the procedure, I'm pretty sure I could knock it out in about an hour if I was working quickly -- if the valves are in spec, that'll save quite a bit of time too.

    trey
    Last edited by treybrad; 2nd June 2013 at 13:59.

  2. #2
    Senior Member dduelin's Avatar
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    Very nice write up with pics.
    Dave

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Old Can Ride's Avatar
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    I agree with dduelin, this is a well done. Your right, short cuts are usually the long way around. Name:  7.jpg
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    Last edited by Old Can Ride; 1st April 2014 at 09:02.

  4. #4
    Senior Member treybrad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Can Ride View Post
    I agree with dduelin, this is a well done. Your right, short cuts are usually the long way around
    Thanks. I thought about it a while... I even removed the upper radiator hose first to see how much room I could gain, but decided against it. My Bandit was such a bear to work on because the engine was so squeezed in the frame, I figured taking 5 minutes to remove the radiator and have a plethora of room would be a nice change of pace.

    If you're used to working in tight quarters and don't mind, I'm sure you could save a little time. I had all afternoon to kill.

    trey

  5. #5
    Senior Member PPWW's Avatar
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    Brilliant.

    This is why I love this forum. Although I do not feel enough qualified (and cocky) to start doing such things by myself, it gives a lot of learning curve and understanding into what (and how) needs to be done.

    A big 'Thank you' from a total noob in this area!
    Amor Patriae Nostra Lex

  6. #6
    JDE
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    Senior Member JDE's Avatar
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    Sweet write up and pictures. I'm due for this too, thanks for the reassurance that it's easy enough for me to do it. I've got the manual, just need to get some oil and some coolant and I'm set.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member dduelin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by treybrad View Post
    Thanks. I thought about it a while... I even removed the upper radiator hose first to see how much room I could gain, but decided against it. My Bandit was such a bear to work on because the engine was so squeezed in the frame, I figured taking 5 minutes to remove the radiator and have a plethora of room would be a nice change of pace.

    If you're used to working in tight quarters and don't mind, I'm sure you could save a little time. I had all afternoon to kill.

    trey
    I checked mine for the second time one night this past week. At 14,000 miles it was a little early but I am getting ready for a 5,000 mile trip in a few weeks and I didn't want to wait to the last minute plus I never like to do maintenance on a bike right before a trip. The first check I did not remove the radiator but this time I did remove it. The first time I did not want to lose coolant but I think only about a pint is lost out of the radiator and easily replaced.

    All four exhaust valves were a tight .010" which is still in spec but I set them back to .011" and one intake required the same move back to center of tolerance. All were still in spec but that is just me.

    Again, good job with the pics and text.
    Dave

    ST1300
    Tiger 800
    CH80


  8. #8
    Senior Member what next's Avatar
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    Ok I can do this. Thanks

  9. #9
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    turbodieseli4i6's Avatar
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    Great write up! When I saw where Honda put the head on this bike, I was tickled. So much easier than the VStrom.

  10. #10
    Junior Member
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    Thanks for the guide! Good to know how simple this is. I'm happy to not need shims on this bike!

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