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Is Pro Honda Oil Worth The Money / Effort?

goodrick

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I am wondering if anybody can sell me on why I need to use the Pro Honda oil in my NC700X, versus buying some other brand off the shelf at the auto parts store (Valvoline, Castrol GTX, Pensoil, etc).

I can buy the other oils for a bit less, and the auto parts store is closer to my house.

I have similar questions about the filter, assuming I change the oil regularly.
 
Use your favorite brand that's compliant with the recommendations of Honda. From the owners manual: Always use Honda Genuine Parts or their equivalents to ensure reliability and safety.

Also from the owners manual: Recommended engine oil Honda 4-stroke motorcycle oil API Service Classification SG or higher, excluding oils marked as “Energy Conserving,” SAE 10W-30, JASO T 903 standard MA
 
Make sure it doesn't say energy conserving

apilabel.jpg
 
For my first oil change 600 miles which I did yesterday I used the honda oil because I was at the dealer .
Next change I will go with something else. Mobil one is what I use in my other bikes.
 
I am wondering if anybody can sell me on why I need to use the Pro Honda oil in my NC700X, versus buying some other brand off the shelf at the auto parts store (Valvoline, Castrol GTX, Pensoil, etc).

Nope, can't sell you on why you NEED the Honda brand oil, but of course if you WANT to spend the bucks there's nothing wrong with that. Honda brand oil or "off the shelf", the NC engine will probably well outlast your ownership of the bike either way.

Use whatever you want so long as it meets the requirements specified in the manual. Be aware that the owner's manual only states 10W-30 as the grade recommended, but the Honda service manual states that either 10W-30 or 10W-40 is acceptable.

AutoZone had Valvoline MA 10W-40 M/C oil cheap ($2/quart) last spring so I bought three cases.

Greg
 
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In my opinion, the biggest reason for being careful what oil you choose is the clutch. The engine would probably run fine forever with any old oil. I have seen first hand what using the wrong oil will do to a clutch. Everyone thinks the most slippery highest tech oil is the best, when in reality it can cause a clutch to slip and wear out very quickly. I try my best to get Honda oil when possible because I know it is designed with wet clutches in mind. Just something to keep in mind.
 
My direct experience has been with good old Castrol GTX 10x40 bought in 4 liter jugs at the auto store. Single cylinder rotax with 80000kms and still going strong.
I used this oil from the second oil change at 600 miles.
Cheers
 
I already have the oil I'm going to use for the 600 mile service I'm doing this weekend. I have been using maxima for all my fluids for years on anything motorcycle. They sell engine oil, brake, fork, coolant, gear oil etc... And everything I have used has always been outstanding. I used the reg 5w30 in my cbr1000rr for 43,000 miles with no issues what so ever. I'm going to use the extra 4 full synthetic 10w40 with a k&n filter. I figure if I'm going 8,000 miles in between changes I might as well spring for the good stuff.
 
As a side note, Honda doesn't manufacture their own oil. I once read a post on another forum that stated Exxon Mobile was the manufactureer of Honda oils although I never looked for the article.
 
On the filters, do search as there is a thread on filters. Has a link or 2 where people have cut open the filters to compare the internal parts. Some filters have good internals and some are questionable.
 
On the filters, do search as there is a thread on filters. Has a link or 2 where people have cut open the filters to compare the internal parts. Some filters have good internals and some are questionable.

Very good choice of words there. There are articles floating around where various filter brands have been cut open for examination. Based on the observations by the article author, the filters were deemed to be of a certain quality based largely on their appearance.

While I don't agree or disagree with their findings (since I don't claim at all to be a filter engineer), I do question whether the looks of the filter alone is sufficient testing to prove it's worth. One author declared the Honda OEM motorcycle filter "not recommended."

As an example, Fram filters generally score a low opinion on visual internal inspections, but there are obviously a huge number of Fram filters previously and presently hanging off engines, and I'm personally not hearing horror stories of engine destruction due to Fram filters. In spite of their cheap, inferior appearance, might they actually be doing the job? I'm not being pro or con on Fram, just using them as an example due to their popularity.

Anyway, I've rambled enough . .

Greg
 
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I’ve got 170k on my Maxima with Fram filters though it gets changed every 3k. It did make me wonder with Fram’s use of cardboard ends instead of steel. The failure analyst in me sees that as a weak spot. I haven’t seen an actual test of different filters ability to filter and how that holds up over time. I figure with 8k between servicing I can pay a few extra bucks and go with a better looking filter once or twice a year. My truck goes 8-10k between changes so I use the GM filter. I find it to be a similar argument to conventional vs synthetic oil.
 
As a side note, Honda doesn't manufacture their own oil. I once read a post on another forum that stated Exxon Mobile was the manufactureer of Honda oils although I never looked for the article.

You are correct. This is the case for the majority of manufacturers who sell their own branded oil. The only reason to buy from them is if you are paranoid about warranty work or like paying more money because it says Honda, Yamalube, Victory etc..
 
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I am a big synthetic oil guy. My truck has used it since 1000 miles. It's at 225,000+ miles now and still runs like a top. My 750 Suzuki Katana has ran it for 40,000+ miles too.

When I inquired about using a synthetic for the NC, the guys at the Honda shop said it wasn't necessary. (scratching head)
 
I switch to full syn on all my bikes at my first oil change. NEVER had an issue of any kind. While it certainly isn't necessary, it doesn't hurt anything as long you choose an appropriate oil.
 
As far as price goes, I bought the 10/30 full syn honda stuff for my 600 mile service and it was about the same price as M1 and Valvoline M/C oil at Wallyworld. On the other hand the OEM filter was 12 bucks, could save big there but I figger there will be one more oil change befroe the warrenty runs out so I'll use the OEM stuff till then. You never know what problems could arrise in the 1st yr of this revolutionary design of engine and DCT combo. I'm not that concerned because its a Honda but for $10 more pre yr in maintainence I'll use the OEM stuff for now.
 
I'll be commuting with my bike, to the tune of ~12,000 miles a year. I stepped up for the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. As you point out, first year for a new technology; A lot can go wrong in 5 years and 60,000+ miles. Picking the right oil is of consequence to me, as I plan to be riding this bike until the wheels fall off.
 
I'll be commuting with my bike, to the tune of ~12,000 miles a year. I stepped up for the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. As you point out, first year for a new technology; A lot can go wrong in 5 years and 60,000+ miles. Picking the right oil is of consequence to me, as I plan to be riding this bike until the wheels fall off.

Wondering how much you paid for the 5 year warranty.
 
Please don't make me regret posting this. :)

It was just under $1000. And I know, the bike comes with a free one year warranty, which means I paid that much for four additional years. I figure $250 a year isn't too bad, when I plan on riding it ~12,000 miles a year. The bike will have a lot of miles by the time the fifth year rolls around.

My last bike's extended warranty expired the month before it threw a wrist pin clip. The bike sat for months before I had the cash to get it fixed. I am hoping this helps avoid such a down time.
 
Please don't make me regret posting this. :)

It was just under $1000. And I know, the bike comes with a free one year warranty, which means I paid that much for four additional years. I figure $250 a year isn't too bad, when I plan on riding it ~12,000 miles a year. The bike will have a lot of miles by the time the fifth year rolls around.

My last bike's extended warranty expired the month before it threw a wrist pin clip. The bike sat for months before I had the cash to get it fixed. I am hoping this helps avoid such a down time.

Thanks. I always wanted to buy extended warranty but at the end I end up not buy... Every bikes I bought in the past, I was planning to keep them forever but end up selling them a couple of years later and get something else... I changed 8 bikes since 2001... Wait... NC700x is the 9th bike since 2001.... :p

As for NC700x... I plan to ride it till it pass 100,000 miles... May be 200,000.... Here we go again... ;)
 
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