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Valve Clearance Check

treybrad

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I checked my clearances today for the first time at 9,763 miles. I know, I'm over the 8k spec, but.... oh well. I didn't document this enough to really call it a how to, but here are some bigger pics to help supplement the shop manual's 'pictures'...

I'm no mechanic... I'm handy enough, and have a pretty well stocked garage of tools, and checking the valves on the NC is a doddle. If you have any mechanical inclination, save yourself some money and get you hands dirty for a couple hours -- you can do it with basic tools, nothing out of the ordinary.

First, as always, is start with a cold bike. Mine sat overnight, which is recommended.


NC700X Valve Check 004 by treybrad, on Flickr

I bought 2 qts of coolant. Capacity is only 1.79 qts, and I wasn't sure how much I'd lose out of the radiator -- it ended up being less than a quart, so you only need to buy one.


NC700X Valve Check 003 by treybrad, on Flickr

I started about 11a....


NC700X Valve Check 009 by treybrad, on Flickr

The entire procedure is lined out really well in the manual -- page 3-10. Worth every penny. The manual says remove the radiator. I know some people have managed without removing it completely, but after working in incredibly cramped conditions checking valves on my last bike, I gladly removed it so I had as much room as I could. And with it removed.... there's a LOT of room -- awesome.


NC700X Valve Check 011 by treybrad, on Flickr


NC700X Valve Check 010 by treybrad, on Flickr

Three bolts later, the valve cover pops right off and everything is very straightforward.


NC700X Valve Check 013 by treybrad, on Flickr


NC700X Valve Check 014 by treybrad, on Flickr

Get your feeler gauges out and check the clearances once you have the motor in the correct position. Mine were like this:

Cyl 1 -- Intakes both at .17mm, bang on spec. One exhaust valve was tight at .23mm and one was at the lower end of spec at .26mm -- spec is .28mm +- .02mm.

Cyl 2 -- Intakes both at .17mm. Exhausts were both at .25mm.

I've never had such an easy adjustment procedure. Took me maybe 5 minutes being overly cautious to adjust and triple check each valve.

Buttoned her all back up, filled up and burped the cooling system and was done before 1p.


NC700X Valve Check 015 by treybrad, on Flickr

So there you have it -- not bad at all. I took my sweet time. Now that I know the procedure, I'm pretty sure I could knock it out in about an hour if I was working quickly -- if the valves are in spec, that'll save quite a bit of time too.

trey
 
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I agree with dduelin, this is a well done. Your right, short cuts are usually the long way around

Thanks. I thought about it a while... I even removed the upper radiator hose first to see how much room I could gain, but decided against it. My Bandit was such a bear to work on because the engine was so squeezed in the frame, I figured taking 5 minutes to remove the radiator and have a plethora of room would be a nice change of pace.

If you're used to working in tight quarters and don't mind, I'm sure you could save a little time. I had all afternoon to kill.

trey
 
Brilliant.

This is why I love this forum. Although I do not feel enough qualified (and cocky:p) to start doing such things by myself, it gives a lot of learning curve and understanding into what (and how) needs to be done.

A big 'Thank you' from a total noob in this area! ;)
 
Sweet write up and pictures. I'm due for this too, thanks for the reassurance that it's easy enough for me to do it. I've got the manual, just need to get some oil and some coolant and I'm set.
 
Thanks. I thought about it a while... I even removed the upper radiator hose first to see how much room I could gain, but decided against it. My Bandit was such a bear to work on because the engine was so squeezed in the frame, I figured taking 5 minutes to remove the radiator and have a plethora of room would be a nice change of pace.

If you're used to working in tight quarters and don't mind, I'm sure you could save a little time. I had all afternoon to kill.

trey
I checked mine for the second time one night this past week. At 14,000 miles it was a little early but I am getting ready for a 5,000 mile trip in a few weeks and I didn't want to wait to the last minute plus I never like to do maintenance on a bike right before a trip. The first check I did not remove the radiator but this time I did remove it. The first time I did not want to lose coolant but I think only about a pint is lost out of the radiator and easily replaced.

All four exhaust valves were a tight .010" which is still in spec but I set them back to .011" and one intake required the same move back to center of tolerance. All were still in spec but that is just me.

Again, good job with the pics and text.
 
Great write up! When I saw where Honda put the head on this bike, I was tickled. So much easier than the VStrom.
 
Take the engine apart? Not a chance. There are just some things I know I shouldn't do, and taking the engine apart is one of them.
 
Take the engine apart? Not a chance. There are just some things I know I shouldn't do, and taking the engine apart is one of them.

Lifting a valve cover is far from taking an engine apart.. Let's see it as an "inspection panel". Now, will you do it ?
 
Your where we all stated from. Give it a try. This way when you go on a ride and something goes wrong, the guy who can fix it is with you.4.jpg

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I'm following this thread, deciding whether or not I want to pay $7800 for the upcoming CTX700 or not. The adventure bike is a little tall for me and a little less wind protection than what I need for a daily, highway rider without having to really research and purchase a suitable windshield, but I love the power train, save this valve clearance factor, and the new CTX is just what I've been looking for.

I currently own a scooter which requires valve check every 24.9K. Valve clearance checks and possible adjustments every 8,000 miles is a deal breaker if I can't do it myself and enough to make me think twice about it even if I can. Of course the scooter has got its own set of problems with all the CVT components and the cost to replace some of those every couple of years, which is now why I'm looking for an MC that gets 60+mpg.

The reason this is such a big deal for me is that I'll be putting 8500-9500 miles per year on my next bike. This means I'll be removing major components and doing major work at least once per year. I think I can handle the radiator removal, but I wander if the CTX will involve more component removal seeing as how it is put together more compactly with its super-low seat.

I've also got to search around and find out just what exactly is involved in the actual adjustment. I hope there is not much to it or lots of bucks for the tools to do it.

If I get too discouraged by this valve clearance check thing, I might be looking at a Honda Shadow. I've not even considered that ride until now. Not quite 60 mpg but shaft drive would take away some of the hassle for a daily rider and if the valve clearance checks are a lot further apart, it would be worth giving up my first styling preference for something that's more practical despite not meeting my mpg parameter. I've heard one can get a good deal on a Shadow right now.

I've considered the CB500X. It's an inch shorter than the NC and more gas capacity/range, but on that forum, owners are having to check and often adjust valves at only 600 miles, even as the schedule is much longer. Also, I'm not so crazy about the high RPM it turns @ 60+ mph versus the 700, but I'm still giving it a consideration.
 
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Most of servicing costs are labour and as the NC is easy and quick to work on, it
only as 1 throttle body so no balancing 2 plugs with long service life's so it's likely
it's service costs will be lower over all than some bikes that only need 14000 mile
valve inspections.
 
For those who are intimidated by this service, I know where you guys are coming from. I've been there too.
Luckily I learned how to check valves on my Chinese scooter (one intake, and one exhaust). Used nothing but youtube videos as a reference. Piece of cake.

Same basic idea with the NC, just 6 more valves to do.
 
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I currently own a scooter which requires valve check every 24.9K. Valve clearance checks and possible adjustments every 8,000 miles is a deal breaker if I can't do it myself and enough to make me think twice about it even if I can. Of course the scooter has got its own set of problems with all the CVT components and the cost to replace some of those every couple of years, which is now why I'm looking for an MC that gets 60+mpg.

I had a Yamaha TMax scooter prior to the NC and the maintenance (including CVT) was much more substantial than the NC. The valve adjustment interval was longer on the TMax, however, the work required to get at the valves was substantial. Once you did get at the valves, the access was not nearly as wide open as that on the NC. The folks intimidated by the body panels on the NC would be mortified by what it takes to do significant work on a TMax scooter. They are bodywork upon bodywork. I would rather adjust the valves on the NC at every oil change than adjust the valves on my TMax every two years.

Also, I would bet that once they settle, you will have several inspection intervals pass with no adjustment needed and you may choose to lengthen the interval on your own. I finally arrived at this with my Honda ST1100. Now my BMWs on the other hand, I would not skip or extend an adjustment because they will make me sorry. With the NC I doubt I will skip an interval because it is just so easy to do.
 
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