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Planned mods

the Ferret

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Thinking about these for planned mods on my soon to take delivery of 2021 NC750X DCT

Hondaline Center stand
Hondaline rear rack
Pyramid or Puig Fenda Extender
Oxford heated grips
Cramp Buster or Kaoko Throttle lock
Battery Tender Pigtail (for keeping the battery up and running my electric jacket liner)
Givi NC750 Tank Bag

Thoughts or recommendations?
 
Hello Ferret, welcome aboard. We are anxiously awaiting the first deliveries of 2021s and you join a very small group that have on deposit.

I make only one suggestion. The Honda rear rack will limit you to the Honda panniers and they are rather small. They may be all you need for running the beautiful roads in your area but going with a Givi or SW Motech rack opens many options for pannier racks and panniers. Nobody knows yet how the '21 windshield will work for people but a popular addition or earlier models is an aftermarket windshield.
 
Accessory lighting has been one of my favorite upgrades, after heated grips.

I have the oem panniers and trunk, they're pretty okay. I agree with dduelin, they're fairly small. But I like the way they look on the bike. Mpg hit isn't as bad as other cases. It's also nice to be able to pop the boxes off and carry them like luggage when travelling and staying at hotels.

Welcome to the club
 
Thinking about these for planned mods on my soon to take delivery of 2021 NC750X DCT

Hondaline Center stand
Hondaline rear rack
Pyramid or Puig Fenda Extender
Oxford heated grips
Cramp Buster or Kaoko Throttle lock
Battery Tender Pigtail (for keeping the battery up and running my electric jacket liner)
Givi NC750 Tank Bag

Thoughts or recommendations?

Dunno how well my experience (2018 NC750X DCT) will compare with a 2021 model but, for what it's worth, I've added all these to my bike - except I used the OEM heated hand grips. No regrets on any of 'em. As for some specifics:

  • I take it that by "rear rack" you mean the just the rear carrier not to include any bits and pieces that adapt for the Honda panniers (i.e. P/N 0871-MKA-A30 for 2016-2020 models). If so, with all due respect to Dave Duelin's comment above, adding just the rear carrier should not necessarily preclude using other brands of pannier racks. I've got Hepco and Becker pannier racks on my bike and they work just fine, as you can see here: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads...ur-nc700-nc750-today.18280/page-7#post-231744. And those H&B Gobi panniers are freakin' HUGE. One install hint: the directions call for you to remove the original grab handles and replace them with the rear carrier by bolting it to the original threaded holes in the frame. Unfortunately, the holes in the frame and the holes in the carrier didn't match exactly and I found that trying to force the carrier into position and not also simultaneously cross-thread the bolts was next to impossible. The solution is to get some metric all-thread in the same size as the bolts and cut some studs to fit into the frame first. It's much easier to fit the carrier onto the standing studs.
  • I installed my Fenda Extenda using thickened epoxy, just clamping it into place while the glue set up. It's been working like a champ so far.
  • OEM heated grips install easily and are unobtrusive once in place. Heat level has been fine. Folks that have the Oxfords seems satisfied with them, too. You might wanna pick up an aftermarket throttle tube to make the install a bit easier.
  • I'd stay away from the Cramp Buster with the DCT for safety reasons. Unless you're specifically in neutral, whenever you give a DCT a little gas, you're gonna be rolling whether you want to or not. It's too easy to pull up to a stop light at idle and have your hand or wrist accidently brush against a Cramp Buster and wind up accelerating out into the middle of the intersection. I've been really pleased with the Kaoko - easy to activate and de-activate with just a roll of the wrist and, being a friction hold, easy to adjust and fine-tune speed too.
  • I installed an SAE bulkhead fitting inside my frunk instead of a 12V cigarette lighter socket and wired it directly (thru a fuse) to the battery terminals. It's unobtrusive but well-protected there and very convenient for battery charging or using a 12V air compressor. In the winter, I just plug my heated jacket wiring into the connector, easy-peasy. You could also plug a USB charger into it but don't go away and leave it plugged in for a long while.
  • Givi tank bag is very handy for ease of access while remaining seated - I carry a water bottle and (often) a small camera there.
 
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Thinking about these for planned mods on my soon to take delivery of 2021 NC750X DCT
...
Cramp Buster or Kaoko Throttle lock
...
Thoughts or recommendations?
I am fully convinced that the Cramp Buster (and similar type items) are actually dangerous with a DCT transmission. Others may disagree. I've posted the same story several times.

Keeping the story short (this time) my wife was on my NC750x, we were idling at the side of a country lane next to a corn field, she dropped her arm from the throttle, caught her sleeve on the cramp buster and the bike took off into the corn field. She kept it upright and came out without damage. I thought it was a fluke. Not sure if her sleeve caught the cramp buster? Or her glove? Either way I didn't think much of it. A month or two later I was on my bike in town on a hot day, first vehicle at a stoplight. Dropped my arm, caught my sleeve and the bike lurched forward toward the traffic crossing through a busy intersection. Fortunately I had my right foot firmly on the brake, the bike lurched but only moved a foot or two forward.

There his NO CLUTCH LEVER on the DCT bikes, so if you normally have the clutch engaged or if your instinct is to grab the clutch it will do you no good at all. Take my story for what it is worth. I firmly believe you are risking your life for no good reason if you use a cramp buster on a DCT. As I said, some others may disagree.


Using a throttle lock is safe. I use an Atlas. Others use other brand, all seem to work, so choose your brand.
 
Agree with Dave (dduelin) The SW-Motech rear rack is one of the best additions I've made to the bike. It looks great, is versatile with any system, and has a quick release for easy removal.
 
I am fully convinced that the Cramp Buster (and similar type items) are actually dangerous with a DCT transmission. Others may disagree. I've posted the same story several times.

Keeping the story short (this time) my wife was on my NC750x, we were idling at the side of a country lane next to a corn field, she dropped her arm from the throttle, caught her sleeve on the cramp buster and the bike took off into the corn field. She kept it upright and came out without damage. I thought it was a fluke. Not sure if her sleeve caught the cramp buster? Or her glove? Either way I didn't think much of it. A month or two later I was on my bike in town on a hot day, first vehicle at a stoplight. Dropped my arm, caught my sleeve and the bike lurched forward toward the traffic crossing through a busy intersection. Fortunately I had my right foot firmly on the brake, the bike lurched but only moved a foot or two forward.

There his NO CLUTCH LEVER on the DCT bikes, so if you normally have the clutch engaged or if your instinct is to grab the clutch it will do you no good at all. Take my story for what it is worth. I firmly believe you are risking your life for no good reason if you use a cramp buster on a DCT. As I said, some others may disagree.


Using a throttle lock is safe. I use an Atlas. Others use other brand, all seem to work, so choose your brand.


Never heard of the Atlas before, looked it up watched a couple of videos looks interesting. Pricey little booger.

Interesting about the cramp buster too, I have had one on 3 or 4 bikes, never remember hitting it accidentally and revving the motor but I can see where that is possible.

I had Oxford heated grips on my ST 1300 and they were great on there. I've read so many threads on guys having issues with factory heated grips on several forums. I'm a little afraid of spending $400 for the factory heated grips

I really have no plans on touring with this bike at this point so I am not interested in hard bags or a trunk. I have no issues with soft bags and tail pack should I decide to try a tour before investing in hardware I don't need. I really am buying this for a local rides bike and can live with a tank bag and tail pack and the frunk lol. Years of touring have taught me to pack really small and light.

With regards to windshields I always take the factory stock shields and cut them lower down 5-7". Shorty shields. I like the wind, always have, and as long as the screen alleviates some pressure from collarbone down, I'm good. I run a cut down shield on my CB 1100 but as soon as my birthday rolls around in mid May, the shield comes off and I ride it shield less from May until October. I did run a Yamaha touring shield on the FJR during the winter, but a shorty shield all summer even on tours.

Lots of good suggestions and ideas for me to ponder.

I am a little concerned about the 2021 having linked brakes. Had a terrible experience with mine on the ST 1300. The secondary master cylinder malfunctioned and locked the rear wheel up while I was out for a ride with my wife. Big long skid mark, but we didn't go down thank goodness. Do any of the other NC 700/750's have linked brakes?
 
Interesting about the cramp buster too, I have had one on 3 or 4 bikes, never remember hitting it accidentally and revving the motor but I can see where that is possible.

I've used them before too. On a normal bike, where you have a clutch, you'd never notice it other than the blip of the engine rev, if you caught your sleeve. It only takes an instant. It is not like I could not disengage my sleeve, it was just a quick snag. But with the DCT that quick snag immediately engages the rear wheel and the bike moves forward. With the DCT you don't physically shift to Neutral at a stoplight. It is like Drive in a car, hit the accelerator pedal and the car is going forward. No different than a DCT bike. So snag the sleeve of your jacket on that cramp buster for a second or two and the bike will move!

This happened to me the 2nd season that I owned the bike, so it was not even a new bike at that point. I'd been riding with the cramp buster (mine was a knock off brand) for months by this point, and the prior fall too.
 
I had Oxford heated grips on my ST 1300 and they were great on there. I've read so many threads on guys having issues with factory heated grips on several forums. I'm a little afraid of spending $400 for the factory heated grips
I have the OEM heated grips and have had zero issues. I don't think you hear about the folks for whom there are no issues. What's there to complain about? My hands got a bit sweaty because they got too warm?

Not saying Oxford is worse or better than OEM. I have no experience with their products that I know of. I haven't seen anyone on this forum complain about their oem grips not working tho.
 
I really have no plans on touring with this bike at this point so I am not interested in hard bags or a trunk. I have no issues with soft bags and tail pack should I decide to try a tour before investing in hardware I don't need. I really am buying this for a local rides bike and can live with a tank bag and tail pack and the frunk lol. Years of touring have taught me to pack really small and light.
Fair enough.
I live in a city and don't own a car so commute year-round and find having a top case extremely useful. Picking up groceries, packages, and I even can do runs to the hardware store for lumber, haha. But I realize that not everyone wants to use their bike as a car.
 
Fair enough.
I live in a city and don't own a car so commute year-round and find having a top case extremely useful. Picking up groceries, packages, and I even can do runs to the hardware store for lumber, haha. But I realize that not everyone wants to use their bike as a car.
Too much cold and snow for year round riding for me but I agree with you that the bike can haul a lot. I fill my 42L top box and frequently end up with groceries in my side boxes. I’ve been known to strap large boxes to my Dales Rack to haul fencing gear to our club. Amazing how much you can carry. I put hard cases on my bike for touring and find them useful on daily riding so I never take them off. Originally I never intended to keep them on for daily rides!
 
Imagine not wanting to use a bike instead of a car.

I can't.

I rarely drive my truck, I'm on my motorcycles daily year round in a state where it snows. My truck is a 2010 Honda Ridegeline, bought brand new, and just turned over 60,000 miles. In comparison since 2010 I have ridden my motorcycles 214,349 miles (yes I keep a daily log). Like I said I rode my bikes 350 days out of 366 last year and average over 300 days and 24,000 miles a year. If there isn't accumulated ice or snow...I'm riding.

Coming from an ST 1300 and a Yamaha FJR 1300 I am well aware of how handy saddlebags and a trunk can be. That's just not the mission I am buying this bike for.
 
Never heard of the Atlas before, looked it up watched a couple of videos looks interesting. Pricey little booger.

Interesting about the cramp buster too, I have had one on 3 or 4 bikes, never remember hitting it accidentally and revving the motor but I can see where that is possible.

I had Oxford heated grips on my ST 1300 and they were great on there. I've read so many threads on guys having issues with factory heated grips on several forums. I'm a little afraid of spending $400 for the factory heated grips

I really have no plans on touring with this bike at this point so I am not interested in hard bags or a trunk. I have no issues with soft bags and tail pack should I decide to try a tour before investing in hardware I don't need. I really am buying this for a local rides bike and can live with a tank bag and tail pack and the frunk lol. Years of touring have taught me to pack really small and light.

With regards to windshields I always take the factory stock shields and cut them lower down 5-7". Shorty shields. I like the wind, always have, and as long as the screen alleviates some pressure from collarbone down, I'm good. I run a cut down shield on my CB 1100 but as soon as my birthday rolls around in mid May, the shield comes off and I ride it shield less from May until October. I did run a Yamaha touring shield on the FJR during the winter, but a shorty shield all summer even on tours.

Lots of good suggestions and ideas for me to ponder.

I am a little concerned about the 2021 having linked brakes. Had a terrible experience with mine on the ST 1300. The secondary master cylinder malfunctioned and locked the rear wheel up while I was out for a ride with my wife. Big long skid mark, but we didn't go down thank goodness. Do any of the other NC 700/750's have linked brakes?
My 2013 700S has linked brakes. Never been an issue for me.
 
Never heard of the Atlas before, looked it up watched a couple of videos looks interesting. Pricey little booger.

Interesting about the cramp buster too, I have had one on 3 or 4 bikes, never remember hitting it accidentally and revving the motor but I can see where that is possible.

I had Oxford heated grips on my ST 1300 and they were great on there. I've read so many threads on guys having issues with factory heated grips on several forums. I'm a little afraid of spending $400 for the factory heated grips

I really have no plans on touring with this bike at this point so I am not interested in hard bags or a trunk. I have no issues with soft bags and tail pack should I decide to try a tour before investing in hardware I don't need. I really am buying this for a local rides bike and can live with a tank bag and tail pack and the frunk lol. Years of touring have taught me to pack really small and light.

With regards to windshields I always take the factory stock shields and cut them lower down 5-7". Shorty shields. I like the wind, always have, and as long as the screen alleviates some pressure from collarbone down, I'm good. I run a cut down shield on my CB 1100 but as soon as my birthday rolls around in mid May, the shield comes off and I ride it shield less from May until October. I did run a Yamaha touring shield on the FJR during the winter, but a shorty shield all summer even on tours.

Lots of good suggestions and ideas for me to ponder.

I am a little concerned about the 2021 having linked brakes. Had a terrible experience with mine on the ST 1300. The secondary master cylinder malfunctioned and locked the rear wheel up while I was out for a ride with my wife. Big long skid mark, but we didn't go down thank goodness. Do any of the other NC 700/750's have linked brakes?
I don't know in what way the 2021 brakes are linked. Don't take Honda feature descriptions too literally. Sometimes their descriptions are vague and then people read into them what they want.

The 2012 and 2013 NC700X with ABS had linked brakes by way of a three piston front caliper. The center front piston with operated by the rear master cylinder through some kind of proportioning valve, if I remember correctly. After 2013, the 3 pot front caliper went away, never to be seen again on the NC.
 
I don't know in what way the 2021 brakes are linked. Don't take Honda feature descriptions too literally. Sometimes their descriptions are vague and then people read into them what they want.

The 2012 and 2013 NC700X with ABS had linked brakes by way of a three piston front caliper. The center front piston with operated by the rear master cylinder through some kind of proportioning valve, if I remember correctly. After 2013, the 3 pot front caliper went away, never to be seen again on the NC.

This article says it but ...who knows if it is correct. i would prefer that they were not.


" Both models will be equipped with a linked, rear-to-front, ABS braking package."
 
This article says it but ...who knows if it is correct. i would prefer that they were not.


" Both models will be equipped with a linked, rear-to-front, ABS braking package."
I never believe anything I read in motorcycle journalist’s article. They are typically full of errors.

I would only read what Honda says about the bike, and then verify that in person. Even American Honda occasionally publishes incorrect specs on the web site in early media releases but is good about correcting them eventually. For example one year Honda printed that the NC had two front brake disks and some people got all excited about it. But it was a simple error as the bike never had two front disks.

The only thing I understand so far about the brake specs is that they have 2 channel ABS, which means the anti-lock function can be applied independently to the front or rear brake.

Edit: I just read a few paragraphs in the article you linked, and already found an error. The Motorcyclist article says the rear suspension travel is 5.9 inches, but the following is what Honda wrote in their press release https://hondanews.com/en-US/release...43f088175-2021-honda-nc750x-features-benefits: “The shock features a spring-preload adjuster system with 4.7 inches travel, down from 5.9 inches. It operates through Pro-Link® arrangement that offers an optimized balance of a soft initial stroke (for dealing with low-speed bumps) and excellent control.” So right there someone is wrong. Misinformation is all too common in the media.
 
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Did your list include Barkbusters or any competing handguards?
I like to keep my hands out of the wind.

I have an Atlas which I really like.
However I rarely find myself using cruise control anyway.

Yea I've thought about bark busters, but on my ST and FJR I used handlebar mitts which I found to be great. Like little warm caves with the heated grips. I was able to wear thin unlined deerskin gloves down to zero degrees F comfortably. Just not sure how they will work with the DCT's parking brake yet. Going to have to figure that out, but I have an idea about cutting a trap door flap in the mitt. If that doesn't work out then I will have to go with bark busters.

recommendation for model?
 
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