foodog38
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Thanks for the great & useful tip! I'm glad everything worked out, without breaking the bank.Okay, you guys are going to love this little DCT nugget.
I was in high gear and high rpm when the bike failed. It was a simple lighting electrical load that caused the bike to quit at highway speeds. I threw the accessory lights on. I was sailing past Six Flags over Texas... almost on the 5 story elevated highway. So lucky.
I had the battery tested. Poor condition. Got a new one. Installed it. Checked my accessories. All works. Turn the key on. A six is in the gear indicator. The bike is clicking. Maybe 10 times before it stops clicking. No N for neutral. I pull in the brake, turn the key and rock the bike. The number changes to 5. The clicking stops. I roll the bike backwards... Turn the key on.... click... click... I roll the bike forwards. Each click is a down gear action on the bike.... trying to correct itself. 4....3....2....1... N on the indicator. Now the bike is in neutral. I shut the bike off... then turn it on again. Hit the starter.... and WOW..... kazowie! All works. If the bike is standing in place, it won't recover.
When your battery goes bad from high outside heat at high speeds.... (the day and night Texas heat)... It can fail and shut the bike off... at high speed. Wow. How about that! Stuck in 6th gear. And you cannot start it. And it may happen when you turn on an accessory. While Riding. You will need to make sure the kick stand is up to take this action.
You will need to get a new battery.... make sure it is charged.... turn the bike on... and roll it forwards with the hand brake lever...helping the bike to downshift.... back to N. When that happens... restart the bike. Wow. A honda trained service tech kinda gave me a clue. He said the gear indicator is probably right... and the bike is still in 6th gear... and stuck there.
Turn the key, and the bike tries to recover... but it needs a good charge to do it, and you need to know what to do. Otherwise it is very confusing.
Now that the whole country has experienced the Texas heat, I hope this helps a lot of people. "Check your Bat-tree", they say in Philadelphia. "Eetz alwaaayz the Bat-tree".
I have those now. Now at 2000km on them and I have to say I am pretty impressed! Way ahead of the stock Dunlop's, in every ridind condition. I now love to recommend them!(705’s,the tire everyone loves to hate)
Accuracy is great but it’s common for chains to have some variation in slack when measured at various points in the run. Not sure I follow why Motion Pro tool is supposedly more accurate than a mm ruler measuring at 3 or 4 points in the run. 40 mm at one point could be as much as 35 or 45 elsewhere in the run. Torque is always important with tapered race bearings but these wheel bearings pass compression loads from the axle nut through spacers and the compression tube to the nut on the other side. Torque value of axle nut is of no consequence to bearing preload but needs to be set to suggested value for safety.Did my first chain adjustment today (almost 3k km).
I had been cleaning the chain religiously every 500km (kerosene and re-lube with gear oil), but my chain had reached 45mm of slack on the centre stand.
Adjusted back to 40mmm with a MotionPro slack measurement tool, definitely more accurate than using the 3 finger method or a ruler or tape, and used a MotionPro chain alignment tool, definitely easier than counting exposed threads on the adjusting screws.
Used the torque wrench (72 ft-lbs) on the axle nut, but not on the adjuster locknuts.
The axle nut torque will affect the rear wheel bearing operation, so it's important.
The tension adjuster locknuts; not so much, just tight enough to be firm.
About the same torque as tightening spark plugs (15 ft-lbs).
Took all of 10 minutes to do.
I assume you've never used a MotionPro chain slack tool.Not sure I follow why Motion Pro tool is supposedly more accurate than a mm ruler measuring at 3 or 4 points in the run.
It would do away with the getting down close to it I suppose. I'm glad I can still get down close to it.I assume you've never used a MotionPro chain slack tool.
The Motion Pro is more accurate because its design and use allow consistent and repeatable accuracy for every measurement, without the need for squinting or contortionist bending of your body needed like you do with a ruler or tape.
Follow their instructions and you can't screw up a measurement.
Hope this helps you understand my statement about accuracy.
You decide:It would do away with the getting down close to it I suppose.