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I’m not aware of anyone who did that surgery... I guess you’ve to talk with an engineer who knows both models in depth.
You may also have a look in service manuals but it will not be an easy task.
I bet your problem is battery or kill switch or side stand switch related.
Initially check the battery status and that the battery terminals are firmly connected.
They’ve but it’s usually coded as top secret... You may contact the manufacturer to decode it.
The other thing you can do is to fully charge it and measure it properly as described in Yuasa’s technical manual to see if it can hold all of the charge (See the state of charge table and all of that...
According to the service manual the maximum leakage current is 1.2 mA. More than that is not normal and indicates a short. You must the current that any other extra addon needs in standby...
1.2 mA is less than 17 days to 50% SoC for a Yuasa YTZ12S.
I guess there will be a difference on...
0.2V is too much. We must always test volt meters against a reliable (calibrated if possible) meter.
Trackers are known power hungry devices because of the GPS and GSM chips. You may adjust it to save some mA but don’t expect significant gains...
Be sure that the battery is fresh. Purchasing a new battery doesn’t mean that is in good condition. We can’t know if the battery is manufactured lately and if it’s appropriately maintained by the dealer...
Charge it, let it rest for at least 2 hours and measure it. A fresh new YTZ battery must...
If you’re replacing your AGM battery at 12.74V or little lower you’re wasting your money. 12.74V means that it can keep more than 80% of its named capacity unless a load test tell us something different.
Time also tell us nothing. Other factors like environmental temperatures and for how long...
A reason that I don’t like this kind of monitoring, it can hide you precious detail. A permanently installed voltmeter will give you a much clearer picture of the charging system and battery status.
The optimal charging voltage for an AGM battery is 14.4V. 15.1 V is within Honda’s spec for their R/R when the engine is warmed and at about 5,000 rpm but it’s unusual to see it. The highest I’ve seen is 14.6V with a LFP. Voltages above 14.6V can cause gassing i.e. electrolyte depletion.
I...