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I think the tank is kind of a trapezoidal shape that's narrower towards the bottom. That would explain why the upper bars last so long and then you hit the low fuel indicator pretty fast.
I bought one last month with the robo brackets. It does look awkward, but it works extremely well. I was about to get rid of the bike because I was getting blown around horribly at 75mph, especially when passing semis or when they pass me going the other way. The MadStad fixed those problems...
One of the guys on the forum from Seattle has a solution. He made a cover that mounts below the radiator and added foot pegs. Looked pretty comfortable. I think his username is HondaPro or HondabikePro.
Dude, I never realized you could move that stock screen. I just switched mine so we'll see how it works. I wish I had read this before riding six hours the other day.
Thanks for the post.
I also went with the heated Corbin option. That seat is bad ass (pun intended)-it is wider and more firm than the stock seat. It also doesn't push you into the frunk. I only wish they had added a controller to adjust the seat temp. That thing gets HOT (and it's right on top of the gas tank :eek:
I have these same handguards. One of them had defective LEDs that never worked. Instead of sending them back, I dissasembled them to try to get them to work since I like the overall look of them. I found the LED circuit to be very cheaply made, but I've had the handguards on for a few months...
I don't take passengers, and could use the extra fuel. It seems like I go from 3 fuel bars to blinking in nothing flat. I attribute it to the unusual tapered shape of the fuel tank. I will buy one of these when you finalize your design. Great job!
I also put one of these on 2 days ago. Went fine if you connect the springs first. Is your bike as difficult to put up on that center stand as mine? I had to park it partway up hill go pull it up because that stand is so tall.
I ended up pulling the four subharness connectors up into the space to the left of the factory circuit breaker. Now the 1A fuse runs along the bottom of the battery where I can easily get to it.
That's a good option. I'm also looking at pulling that entire sub harness up to a more usable point, like inside the left false air intake. If I pop that 1 amp or want to add more accessories, I'd like to not have to removed the entire side panel again.
I have a set of these LED handguards on my workbench. When I plugged them up, one side worked well, but the other had three LEDs that did not light. Additionally, I can't figure out how to get the handlebar inserts from the factory bar ends out of the handlebars so I can install the new ones...
I'm in the process of wiring up the factory accessory now. The entire left side of the bike is disassembled. That subharness plus the accessory subharness together are at least 6 feet long. You can wire that thing up anywhere on the bike. I'm splicing another accessory socket on the tree for...
The factory accessory socket comes with an in-line 1 amp fuse. You click it in between the subharness and the new power outlet. If you blow this thing, you're going to have to take the entire left side cowl off again, just to change it. Be forewarned: this could suck.
I'm in the process of adding my factory power outlet now. I have an aftermarket socket that I mounted on the left handle bar. When you buy the factory sub-harness, it is a plug-and-play attachment that adds 4 pre-made female sockets for power. You can add anything to them. I'm going to...
The chick at my local Honda stealership gave me 10W-40 when I said I needed oil and a filter for my NC700. When I got home, the manual said to use 10W-30. What weight are you guys using?