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I need to get the passenger seat hinge out (or at least accessible) so that I can replace the broken part. I pulled out the 2 obvious bolts holding the small plastic part behind the passenger seat, and couldn't get it off. Suggestions, or an alternative means of access?

I've found that when one filament fails it often wiggles around, ends up touching the other filament, and the other fails in short order

they have versions for sport riding too

you might look into Ranger Point Precision fork upgrade for the NC the Ranger Precision stuff too. It's more expensive but, for street use, I like the idea of extra suspension travel. Around here I see more racers running Penske than Ohlins, but both are good.

Warp 9 Exhaust Slider - Toxic Moto Racing I have one of those on my race bike and imagine it would work on the NC as well

Honda 88210-MGS-D30 - Best Price on Honda MIRROR, R. BACK Parts at BikeBandit.com the right mirror is the same part

Is that not a special fender bolt? I agree that it's M6x1.0, 14mm sounds reasonable.

36 is VERY small for a rear sprocket: the smallest I've seen stock on any bike is 38. Here in the US, stock gearing for a normal transmission is 16/43 and for DCT 16/39. I'm seeing that the later DCTs were 17/39. I thought I'd read of people changing the gearing on DCTs without a problem...

has anyone else had this break?

Yes, it's a skeletonized steel sprocket Given the cost and minimal weight savings vs Superlite I'm not a fan

you don't need to spend $1000. you can get a decent option for $200.

I agree that gloves are #2 on the list of gear. I've ridden down the street wearing shorts, t shirt, sandals... helmet, gloves.

Yep. When people say they think jeans do anything, I remind them of playing on a playground in elementary school. I imagine that everyone fell down and skinned their knee through their jeans at least once. And that was with much less weight on it, at awfully low speed.

for anyone who was curious... his clutch is still fine, and I think I'm at 47k.

I don't see how sticky pistons could cause pulsing (unless they caused the rotor to overheat and warp)

has anyone else had that break? trying to figure out if I should just buy new OEM or if I ought to reinforce it

If they swapped the rotor and it's pulsing like that, they need to make it right.

I doubt most people have a vise big enough to reasonably use as a bead breaker - especially on something like the 130/80 I was removing. I bet that vise weighs as least as much as the Coats 205 tire machine I had.

correct, it's what the seat bolts to

Tacoma, if the humidity there is reasonable I'd highly recommend a mister to help cool you down I swapped the front tire and flushed the brake on mine. Since I sold my tire machine I had to get creative as far as bead breaker goes. I wonder how many people use a vise as one.