16k service done.

[Hmcp88]

Finished the 16k service tonight. Not much to report, oil change went like an oil change does. Valves are still in spec from the last adjustment, no mods needed. Spark plugs look good, they are a little white but I expect that with the fuel mileage this bike produces. I reused the valve cover gasket for the second time, I decided I'm going to reuse it until I crack or the bike leaks. I broke the first bolt on the bike. The upper radiator bolt, not sure how it happened but it's definitely broken. Going to order the bracket and bolt tomorrow but it's still pretty sturdy as it is. Did all the rest of the lube points and cleaned and lubed the chain. Will report back when the oil sample comes back. Some pics but not much to take pics of, looks the same every time lol.

 

[Old Can Ride]

How you can tell if a mechanic is working, is that the one's that works sometimes break things. That's just part of the adventure!

 

[Craigmri]

Hmcp,

I'm no where ready for my valve check but I studied your photos. Are those valves adjustable? As in not "Shim under bucket"? If thats the case I am pleasantly surprised. Maybe I shouldnt be with the low-revving nature of this engine.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Those valves are one of the reasons I bought the NC700 in the first place. Simple up keep, means more riding!

 

[Hmcp88]

Hmcp,

I'm no where ready for my valve check but I studied your photos. Are those valves adjustable? As in not "Shim under bucket"? If thats the case I am pleasantly surprised. Maybe I shouldnt be with the low-revving nature of this engine.

Correct sir. Adjustable tappets. Just insert feeler gauge between valve spring and tappet, Break loose the 10mm nut and screw the tappet to spec and retighten. Every bike I think about getting from here on out, how to adjust the valve will come into question.

 

[2wheelcager]

Wow, plug looks VERY lean. Maybe it's the picture. Reusing the valve cover is done even at the dealer level, so no problem unless it's damaged. Bolt was probably seized.

 

[Porkie]

There's more to the adjustment so be prepared. Get the cylinder you are adjusting to 'top dead center' on the compression stroke by either the timing marks or a 'dowel' stuck into the sparkplug hole to make sure the piston is actually at TDC. The rocker arms will be 'loose' at this point and not if the piston isn't on the compression stroke. The correct feeler gauge should obviously be used and a 'bent' one will help due to tight areas. The first time you do it, tightening the 'locknut' will change the clearance and make it tighter, so check and recheck your work. A special 'tool' is normally available to hold the adjuster screw in place as the nut is tightened. Better to be loose than tight. Plugs all look very lean now, by design and the good ol' EPA.

Sam

 

[MZ5]

Thanks for the pics! The plugs do look a little fuzzy/blurry but right on for computer-controlled AFRs.