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2021 DCT stuck in neutral

Shinobigami...can you post a pic of the wires you are referring too?
Not sure which one it is, one controls the starter and the other drive, but if you hold both like in the picture and push towards/up/down or away from (fiddle) the switch and press D. That’s how I had to ride for 2 weeks until they got the switch in.860F5C83-6F67-4640-B690-7EB0C3C055CA.jpeg
 
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Great thanks, that may help a fellow DCT owner if he experiences the problem.

This did not come up as a common issue when I was researching issues DCTs.
That right handlebar switch gear is new to the NC for 2021, so there is little reliability history on that particular part.
 
Great thanks, that may help a fellow DCT owner if he experiences the problem.

This did not come up as a common issue when I was researching issues DCTs.
I noticed the zip tie that holds these wires was cut, probably due to the installation of the handlebar risers. Curious to know if the OP @saldog has had handlebar risers installed?
 
interesting. Glad you got it working anyway. BTW I ALWAYS use the key to turn mine off. Never the stop switch. Not sure what it says in the manual now, but it used to be called an emergency stop switch and the manual said not to use it to turn off the bike, other than in an emergency (like it was laying on the ground running)

says the same thing now I think, this is what I found online from a 2018 NC750X manual

Engine stop switch Should normally remain in the (Run) position. In an emergency, switch to the (Stop) position (the starter motor will not operate) to stop the engine.
I’d say I really only use the kickstand to turn the bike off (which I’m sure is the same as the kill switch), I rarely use the neutral button or need the bike to idle while I’m not on it unless it’s the first start and I’m warming it up.
 
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I noticed the zip tie that holds these wires was cut, probably due to the installation of the handlebar risers. Curious to know if the OP @saldog has had handlebar risers installed?
I wonder if whoever installed the handlebar risers dropped the handlebars (even slightly); pulling on the cables and slightly damaging the connection point of the cables to the switch itself....
 
I wonder if whoever installed the handlebar risers dropped the handlebars (even slightly); pulling on the cables and slightly damaging the connection point of the cables to the switch itself....
That’s a good possibility. If the switch housing is designed well, there should be a clamp or strain relief at the cable entry point(s) that should prevent pulling the wires from their electrical connections. An autospy of the old switch housing and cable is the only way to know for sure where the defect was.
 
Without proper connection testing, all this chatter doesn't make much sense.
If you are capable of testing electrical connections, get the Service Manual and look for where the cable connections are and their wire markings. If you have a multimeter, "Needle Thin Tip Multi Meter Tester Lead" are very useful for such tests. You will probably have to cut the outer sleeve to get to the individual wires. If you don't have a thin needle tester leads you can use a sewing needle (and maybe a thimble for your finger). I don't think I have to explain too much what it is for. You can save yourself a lot of money.
 
I noticed the zip tie that holds these wires was cut, probably due to the installation of the handlebar risers. Curious to know if the OP @saldog has had handlebar risers installed?
Yes! I did install risers and there is much less slack in those wires. I'm going to take the risers back off. I wonder if I caused any damage doing that. Maybe I didn't manage the wire harness correctly to pull the slack up from below to make sure there was still enough slack up top for the handlebars. When I get time, I will put it back like it was and report back here.
 
Wow have I really neglected my motorcycle and the good people in this forum! I took up another hobby that consumed much of my time over the last year. My poor bike has been sitting in the garage for a long time so I dusted it off, removed the handlebar risers, and ventured out with it, commuting to work on a beautiful winter's day in SoCal. It's running great with no issues so far related to this switch. I'd bet money that I worked something loose with the handlebar riser installation and after putting it back, the electrical contact is being made now that there is no stress on those wires. But I do not know for sure if it actually caused damage that needs to be repaired to be reliable.
 
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