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2021: What did you do to/with your NC700/NC750 today?

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Installed Rox 2" risers to get the bars up & back a bit. Did the usual relocation of the brake hose - also found that with the front wheel at full left lock, the clutch cable was pulled tight - too tight for my liking so I relocated the cable to behind the frame down tube. It seems to work alright like this, however, I'll probably order a longer cable (ctx cable works I think?) just in case...
 
Did my first DCT clutch initialization.
Figured it was time as the clutch plates have bedded in by now.
I'll report back next ride on the changes in shifting and clutching, if any are even noticeable.
I was noticing some chattering vibration through the footpegs below 15 kph lately when braking to a stop.

One gotcha: If you use the centre stand while doing the initialization, apply the parking brake so the rear wheel doesn't move while in neutral.
The rear wheel must not move during the process.
I used my side stand, and couldn't figure out for a bit why at the end of the process in restarting the engine why D wouldn't engage and show D in the gear display.
Duh: side stand down.
Next time I'll do the process sitting on the bike without using any stands.
 
I took 39 to Tellico Plains and then 68 to 74 to follow the Ocoee river. Had lunch by the river.

Had to take a short detour on 68 due to a fatal motorcycle accident. Thoughts and prayers for the family of the fallen rider.
One of my favorite roads is 39 Mecca Pike from Tellico to TN 315 south to the Ocoee.
 
After a slight mishap on a gravel parking lot, I had my side bags Re-coloured. Swapped out red panels for graphite.
 

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Took my X-Adv out on my favourite "test road" to scrub in new Dunlop Road Smarts and check them out generally. That road is one of the roughest, bumpiest and twistiest in my part of the country, a proper test of any tyre. The Dunlops are very good dry road tyres at least. Yet to be tested in the wet. They are replacing Michelins for the time being, (possibly longer if they work out), because I cannot get the 15" rear Michelin for the bike currently.
 
We had our first cold front for the fall come through Thursday and it was a cool 70 degrees at my house this morning. I took a two hour ride before work this morning and saw 59 F in White Oak, GA. I know that's funny for those of you in cooler climates but it was the first cool low humidity morning here in 6 months.

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Finally completed the heated grip install after receiving parts from Cycle Terminal. I have had this setup on several bikes, Heat Demon heaters with Pro Grip #714 grips. The slide switch just to the left of the handlebar clamp has OFF, LOW, HIGH for the heated grips. The push button 'kill switch' is wired to my garage door opener located in the frunk.
grips.jpg
opener.jpg

Now I can focus on the seat and hard luggage.
 
Did my first DCT clutch initialization.
Figured it was time as the clutch plates have bedded in by now.
I'll report back next ride on the changes in shifting and clutching, if any are even noticeable.
Report on effect of clutch initialization:
I thought the transmission was smooth and quiet from the factory, but after doing the clutch initialization at 2500km, I am really amazed at how smoothly and quietly the DCT shifts now.
This procedure really should be in the owner's manual.
But of course they would never put it there, because it is a somewhat complex procedure with lots of steps.
But if you can follow 10 or so lines of instructions (sorry Ferret, not in your wheelhouse ha-ha) it is very easy.
For those with a DCT who have never done an initialization, you will be very surprised and happy with the results.

For those without a service manual or who can't Google, I've put the instructions into my own words, trying to be as clear and concise as possible.
These instructions apply to 2016 and newer models. For pre 2016 models, ignore the part in line instruction #3 about holding the throttle wide open.

1) Hot engine, side stand up, sit on bike

2) Start engine, make sure it is in Neutral, turn off engine

3) While pushing and holding down D on the N/D selector, open throttle fully and hold it open, without releasing both the D the wide open throttle, turn ignition on, but do NOT start the engine
The yellow MIL lamp (also called the check engine light) will illuminate

4) Release D after MIL goes out (takes only a second or two for it to go out) but don't release the throttle yet
Your gear display window will be blank.

5) Still holding throttle wide open, push quickly in this order: D - D - N - D - N on the N/D selector

6) Close throttle completely
Do not turn off the ignition

8) You are ready to initialize when “ ----- “ blinks slowly every 2 seconds, and "D", and "S" also appear at the same time in the gear display

9) Start engine and let idle
“ ----- “ blinks slowly every 2 seconds

10) when “D” and “S” and “ ----- “ disappear, turn off engine

11) Restart engine and make sure “ D” appears in gear window when you press “ D “ (don't forget, your side stand must be up)

And you're done, so either go for a ride, or turn your engine off.
 
Last edited:
Report on effect of clutch initialization:
I thought the transmission was smooth and quiet from the factory, but after doing the clutch initialization at 2500km, I am really amazed at how smoothly and quietly the DCT shifts now.
This procedure really should be in the owner's manual.
But of course they would never put it there, because it is a somewhat complex procedure with lots of steps.
But if you can follow 10 or so lines of instructions (sorry Ferret, not in your wheelhouse ha-ha) it is very easy.
For those with a DCT who have never done an initialization, you will be very surprised and happy with the results.

For those without a service manual or who can't Google, I've put the instructions into my own words, trying to be as clear and concise as possible.
These instructions apply to 2016 and newer models. For pre 2016 models, ignore the part in linstruction #3 about holding the throttle wide open.

1) Hot engine, side stand up, sit on bike

2) Start engine, make sure it is in Neutral, turn off engine

3) While pushing D on the N/D selector, open throttle fully and hold it open, and then turn ignition on, but do NOT start the engine
The yellow MIL lamp (also called the check engine light) will illuminate

4) Release D after MIL goes out (takes only a second or two for it to go out)
Your gear display window will be blank.

5) Still holding throttle wide open, Push quickly in this order D - D - N - D - N on the N/D selector

6) Close throttle completely
Do not turn off the ignition

8) You are ready to initialize when “ ----- “ blinks slowly every 2 seconds, and "D", and "S" also appear at the same time in the gear display

9) Start engine and let idle
“ ----- “ blinks slowly every 2 seconds

10) when “D” and “S” and “ ----- “ disappear, turn off engine

11) Restart engine and make sure “ D” appears in gear window when you press “ D “ (don't forget, your side stand must be up)

And you're done, so either go for a ride, or turn your engine off.
If the procedure was in the owner's manual, it would go something like, "see your authorized Honda dealer".
 
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