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2nd Chain Sprocket Replacement

I have three clicker torque wrenches, 1/4" to 1/2" drive, covering 20 in/lb to 1,800 in/lb. A couple I inherited from my dad's garage and the third I bought plus a beam type I haven't used but rarely in many years. The beam type was one of the first "real" tools I bought after moving out on my own. I couldn't afford a clicker type then.

I am reminded of the scene in the movie Grand Torino when the young neighbor asked Clint Eastwood's character "how did you get so many tools?" He replies "Hell, I didn't get them all at once...it took me 50 years." (paraphrased). Unless you are rich that's how it works from my point of view.
 
Caterpillar is almost strickly clicker type torque wreches. We measure by newton metre though. Anyway, we have clickers that torque from 3 Nm (2.2 ft. lb) to 800 Nm (590 ft. lb). The torque required will change the size of the wrench. You won't have a three foot long clicker wrench torguing to 6Nm bolt and vise versa. Clicker type are very convenient, and accurate enough for general usage but the accuracy of these is best in the mid torque range for the given wrench. They tend to skew a little towards the high/low ends. This is why our clicker wrenches are set to a specific toruque and tested regularly to ensure they have stayed within thier range. That is typically +/- 5 Mn from the required torque. I know we can't all afford one wrench per operation. It was just a long explanation to say I agree with Bamamate.

I would need a 5ft bar to pull 590ftlb...........
 
FWIW, the last paragraph on page 3-17 of the Honda service Manual just says to replace the chain if the chain adjuster arrow mark reaches the red zone of the indicator label on the swing arm after the chain is adjusted for slack. There is also a picture of what they're talking about. I'm sure the link you were referenced to will have more complete information, but I thought you might like to see Honda's guidance on when you should replace the chain.

Bob
 
I'm having one of those ZEN problem moments... I have no experience putting the clip on the master link.

Once the chain is connected, and the four o-rings are in place on the master link, there is simply nothing for the clip to grab on to. The posts aren't long enugh for the clip to grab on to what it should. Yes, this is the master link that came in the box with the chain.

I'm disgusted... Ready to quit and just wait a week with the bike up on a stand and tools scattered over the patio.
In a week, the Rivet links I had to order will be here, and I can put those on.

I'm off to get some zen on youtube...maybe seeing someone else put the clips on will explain how the clips actually grab on to anything?

OK... got some good tips from this video... My head hurts. What size bolt did he use? he didn't say.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zw0udWDBem4
 
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Strat, the size of the nut is not importanf. It just has to be large enough for the master link pin to go into into it loosely. All he's doing in the video is pressing the link side plats together far enough to expose the grooves in the pins for the clips. Didn't your chain rivet tool come with a chain press to push the master link side plates together? If so, just use that. Once the grooves are visible slide on the clip to hold everything together.
Basically, just do the same thing you did to assemble your riveted master link except the final step is to install the clip instead of expanding the rivets.

Bob
 
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Strat,
Page 1-6 of service manual under maintenance is a listing for "Drive Sprocket Bolt". which is the front sprocket. The torque is listed as 40 lb-ft. To convert inch pounds to foot pounds divide the inch pounds by 12 (12 inches in a foot). Going the other way, lb-ft times 12 equals lb-in. Unfortunately I doubt that that a torque wrench calibrated in inch pounds will go up to the torque value for the bolts you're going to be working on since You will need 480 lb-in for the front and 960 lb-in for the rear.

Hope this helps,
Bob

Nowsadays, a phone app will make conversions much easier :)

y6utabyn.jpg
 
Done.
The video really made the difference... Seeing it done brought me closer to that zen moment of doing...
That technique of putting the bolt over the pin and squeezing with the vice grips was...invaluable.
Thank you for reading along and special thanks to those who offered wisdom and advice.
View attachment 17430
 
I am reminded of the scene in the movie Grand Torino when the young neighbor asked Clint Eastwood's character "how did you get so many tools?" He replies "Hell, I didn't get them all at once...it took me 50 years."

Great movie, great player, great phrase and very true :)
 
This is only my second time replacing a chain and sprockets and the first time I used a clip-type master link on a motorcycle. I wanted to make sure I had everything right. I read through this thread to find the torques for the sprocket bolt (40 ft lb) and the rear sprocket nuts (80 ft lb). (Shouldn't these numbers be in the owner's manual? I'm adding them!) And I somewhat followed along with StratTuner's tale of frustration to learn the general procedure. I now have the new chain installed, the bolts tight, and the master link clip clamped down with a piece of safety wire. I compressed the master link with a c-clamp and a 10-24 nut. Better, the clip is oriented the right way, with the sharp edged side pointing out!

So, thanks for this thread, StratTuner, it helped me, at least, to get clear on the details of changing the chain and sprockets!

tied master link.jpg

front sprocket.jpg
 
This is only my second time replacing a chain and sprockets and the first time I used a clip-type master link on a motorcycle. I wanted to make sure I had everything right. I read through this thread to find the torques for the sprocket bolt (40 ft lb) and the rear sprocket nuts (80 ft lb). (Shouldn't these numbers be in the owner's manual? I'm adding them!) And I somewhat followed along with StratTuner's tale of frustration to learn the general procedure. I now have the new chain installed, the bolts tight, and the master link clip clamped down with a piece of safety wire. I compressed the master link with a c-clamp and a 10-24 nut. Better, the clip is oriented the right way, with the sharp edged side pointing out!

So, thanks for this thread, StratTuner, it helped me, at least, to get clear on the details of changing the chain and sprockets!

How many miles did you get?
 
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So, thanks for this thread, StratTuner, it helped me, at least, to get clear on the details of changing the chain and sprockets!

Wow! What a huge compliment. You're welcome.

The answers to all the questions I asked were the real heroes of the whole lesson.
 
I was reading about torque wrenches trying to understand the different scales. Used an online tool to convert them which made it easier to understand. Some of the wrenches were in in/lbs and I didn't understand how that related to ft/lbs which was in the user manual.

FREE Torque Conversion Table
 
Put a Scottoiler eSystem on your bike & the chain & sprockets will last much longer. My NC has 20,000 on it & the sprockets look like new ones.
 
Put a Scottoiler eSystem on your bike & the chain & sprockets will last much longer. My NC has 20,000 on it & the sprockets look like new ones.

I would add that many have replaced their sprockets long before it was needed. Especially true on the bikes that had kinky chains ( kinks cause varied) early 4000-8000 miles and the sprockets were replaced with the new chain.
 
Put a Scottoiler eSystem on your bike & the chain & sprockets will last much longer. My NC has 20,000 on it & the sprockets look like new ones.

The $60 USD Motobriiz has worked quite well for me. Scottoiler eSystem at $290 USD is expensive, but their $140 units has been around for many years. Motobriiz is in year 3 or 4.
I have my set-up installed under the L/H (faux) Air Duct,w/the ram air tube exiting the 'grill' under the leading edge if the Air Duct.
The chain always looks wet until the reservoir empties, telling me its time to fill up. I predict 30K+ miles on my chain/sprocket.

Now my Motus.........lifetime real sprocket, 20K mile chain, no lube or adjustment.........so they say. Time will tell.
 
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