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a few odd questions

webmost

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I am a daily year-round all-weather motorcycle commuter. Live in Delaware. Bought a BMW R1200CLC to tote the RedHead to distant B&Bs. That bike is a slab gobbler; chews up asphalt and spits out miles. Ride a Kawasaki KLR650 to go camping. No heavy dirt riding; but long gravel roads and the occasional creek crossing. Used to keep a BMW K75 for the commute; but it's hard to keep three bikes rode right, so... I mostly commute on the KLR now. Only an eight mile commute; so I prolly only ride 25k a year. 66 years old this July 8th. Keep fit playing four wall indoor handball.

That's my profile.

Her health means the RedHead is done riding now. That makes the CLC expendable with 85k on the clock. The KLR is getting long in the tooth at 45k. Considering an NC700X to replace both my KLR and CLC. Beemer dealers will hand you the keys and say: "we close at five." That kind of ample test drive allows the bike to sell itself, answers all your questions. Honda dealer not so. They want you to buy first, try later. That leaves me with too many dangling question marks. That's why I am here. Here's what I am looking to answer:

1) I have had many Hondas over the years. Every one of them needed to spin minimum 5k rpm to find her sweet spot. This undersquare engine seems to spin much more slowly. I can't imagine they put a heavy flywheel on their wet clutch. Nor are slow turning torquey low rpm engines their trademark. Therefore:
a) How many RPMs are you turning doing seventy in sixth?
b) Are there any reports of loping or surging at idle?
c) How tall is first gear?

2) I am zero fan of trunks cantilevered out over the back end. Much rather have a rack. Rack over pillion even better. I saw a nice rack covering the rear seat on a bike for sale here yesterday. Are these racks commercially available?

3) I found the seat uncomfortable. Particularly dislike the butt cupper theory of motorcycle seats. That just transmits vibration to the tailbone on the long haul. Much rather be able to slide back and forth to ease the legs. What aftermarket seats do the trick?

4) The front hugger fender is perched to trap wet mud and twigs. There's a good reason why dual sports need big floppy front fenders way up off the wheel, so you can throw the clumps off. Is there an aftermarket fender more suited to dirt? For that matter, does anyone really take these in the dirt?

5) I get 57 mpg on my KLR with a 7.5 gallon IMS tank. Similar sized engine, but carburetted. Do not hit reserve until 340 to 360. This NC boasts a tank the size of a big gulp. Looks to cramp my style.
a) Is the promised 70mpg honest, or hype?
b) I saw a thread where a guy was making a four gallon aux tank. How'd that work out?
c) At current prices, 57 mpg on regular = < 6 cents per mile, while 70 mpg on premium = > 7 cents per mile. How's this engine do on medium grade? On regular?

6) Zero fan of LED displays in bright sun. Does anyone make a tinted windshield that would help shade the display? Any other way to help that display show up?

7) Less than zero fan of windshields. hey, it's a murdercycle, it's sposed to be windy, duh. Fact, I can do without fairing altogether. Anyone stripped the fairing off the front, have pics?

Thanks in advance.
Rubber side down.
 
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1) Rough estimates:
a) 4k I'd guess 4.5k
b) not that I've heard.
c) 1st gear will get you to 30-35mph approaching red line... 2nd gear can comfortable get you up to 50-55mph with the engine screaming... but generally I shift around 3k rpm instead of pushing it up to the red line...

2) not much experience here, only comment I have is - Frunk.

3) lots of aftermarket seats... and some custom seats makers... and some seat mods to take the slope away (which is what really puts the vibration in the tail bone)

4) I've not had a problem on the occasional dirt/gravel road with the fender... Yes people do take these bikes off road, there are plenty of threads here showing that, change if tires is required for serious time spent off road.

5) plenty of answers here: Honda NC700X Mileage | Fuelly - self reported millage for the nc700x from people who actually own them.
a) I don't believe honda advertises 70, I think they advertise 60 something...
b) don't think any one is selling after market tanks at the moment, but tool tubes with 32 oz fuel canisters are an option
c) I only use regular... never had a problem.

Fuelly puts the 2012's with over a million miles tracked at about 64 mpg (about what I get in the city) though your mileage is going to vary, even on fuelly you can see the spread people are getting on this bike... some of that is accessories (windshield can help stream line the bike, or can add surface area and make mileage worse) some of that is riding style, some of that is rider aerodynamics (and weight, but that only weighs heavily if there is lots of stop and go) My bike is showing on fuelly at 5.4 cents per mile right now.
 
I can throw my 2 cents on a couple of these questions.
The sweet spot rpm wise is less than 4000 miles on my nc700x. 60mph in 6th gear is around 3100rpms, even though I usually run in 5th gear at 60mph, still less than 4000 rpms. 70mph in 6th gear is around 4000rpms.
I don't have loping or surging at idle, runs smoothly.
I don't usually shift to 2nd gear until around 25mph on average, can go a little higher
This bike has a built in front trunk (pseudo tank) which is 21 L. There is a guy on this forum which makes a rack over pillion which has allows access to the gas cap.
Many threads on this seat about different aftermarket seats. After 11,000 miles I still have stock OEM seat but it is terrible.
After 11,000+ miles, I am averaging 68 mpg. I have got 82mpg in the Smokies, keeping the mph to under 50mph, but I have got as low as 58mpg-doing 80-85mph on the highway. On my last 13 hour trip (785 miles) on the Interstate, keeping speeds at around 74mph, I got 68, 69, 71, and 64 mpg on the 4 fuel stops.
The bike uses 87 octane, no need to use any higher octane, waste of money. After 11,000+ miles, I have never placed anything over 87 octane in the tank.
 
Wow! You sure are thorough in your thoughts! I'll have go -

1) - A) - almost 4000, B) - No lope, C) - don't know this one
2) - Contact Hondabikepro in the vendor section, he makes things
3) - The seat is probably going to be a problem for you depepnding on your height.
4) - No aftermarket fender. It's too heavy for ME to take in the dirt. I'll be happy on gravel roads to "get away".
5) - A)- I've got better than 70 but on a 2,300 mile trip I did last month (saddle bags, 40L dry bag and full Army duffle bag) I averaged 65.5
B) - See answer #2
C) - Can't answer this. I only run premium.
6) - You could keep the stock Honda short screen and paint it balck. BTW - I've NEVER had a problem seeing my display.
7) - Not me. You can take it off easily enough -4 screws

Hope tha helps and welcome. Hope you decide on a NC. I love mine!
 
Howdy from Texas.

Some answers:

1. At first you will bump the delimiter quite often, but soon you get use to the bike's character. You will quickly learn how this bike shifts gears properly. A little different than most bikes.

2. See: Dales Corner | South Bound Honda | Lakewood Washington

Also see: http://nc700-forum.com/forum/south-bound-honda/5694-hondabikepro-products.html

Trunks are used more by street riders than off road riders. Different purposes.

3. Stock seat is a total loss. Usual aftermarket companies - Russell Day Long, Sergeant, Corbin and a few more.

4. This is a street bike first, with some off road abilities. Your KLR is a off road bike first, with some street abilities. The NC7 is a lot more comfortable on the street than your KLR, where your KLR is a lot more comfortable in the dirt.

5. Gas mileage are about the same on both bikes, especially when ridden hard. This bike is designed to run on regular, premium would be a waste of money.

6. The usual number of after market windshields for this bike. The LED just takes a little time to understand how it works, but no problem once you figure it out.

7. The new KLR has a bigger fairing, trying to make it more street comfortable.. I would not take the fairing off of either bike, as the fairing does do a good job on the street, that is its purpose.

I find the NC7 a lot more comfortable on long cross the world rides than the KLR, where the KLR is more comfortable on the world's dirt roads.
 
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Welcome to the boards!
Anglachel already answered well, but here goes another...

1a. 70 mph is 4000 rpm
1b. no looping or surging
1c. How tall is first gear? I shift at 3000 rpm, so I think I get to about 20 in 1st.

2. JohnAkay is a board member who makes racks for the NC. He does fine work, and I'm sure he could make a rack to spec for you...for a price.

3. the seat is a problem for some. I replaced mine with the Sargent seat ($300), but lots of folk like the Seat Concepts brand as well.

4. i don't off road and would never go in mud... not with street tires.

5. at 36,000 miles, I average 69.0 MPG. Best ever was 80, worst was 55.

5a. It's not hype. 65 to 70 mpg is common. (see fuelly.com)
5b. I'd carry rotopax before I'd go and modify the tanks.
5c. the owner's manual says to use regular...(87), so I do. Mileage is good, so I presume the engine is happy with that.

6. Never had a problem seeing the LED even at high noon in the arizona desert. I have made a visor for my GPS but not for the speedometer.

7. gotta have a windshield at 70 mph on interstate highways. 'make my own.

Overall, I would say the NC700x is a well mannered bike. It does a lot of things well. It's been easy to maintain and modify. I commute and travel from work site to work site every day (with saddlebags), and I use it for a long distance cruiser.
 
Slow turning engines may not have been Honda's trademark, but this is the NC, the New Concept bike. The low RPM engine in the NC is for real. It's smooth, there is no surging, and it doesn't take a big flywheel to accomplish this. I have run two long trips on the NC this spring, totally almost 5000 miles, and I can honestly say I probably never went over 4000 rpm the whole time. If I did it was one or two short bursts. If you are happy with the power of the KLR I'd think you should be fine with the NC.

The small fuel tank might be a problem for you. The bike is very, very sensitive to speed and headwinds. My mileage has varied for 55 to 95 mpg, and hence the range varies greatly, too. I was used to the 7.4 gallon tank of my old ST1100, and the 6.6 gallon tank of the GL1800, but the NC does a 200+ mile range unless you are driving fast into a headwind. Bolting on a Rotopax can would be the easiest way to deal with the issue. I take any extra gallon on my trips but have never needed to use it. As stated in the manual and from experience, 87 octane is all you need. Any higher octane would be a waste of money

I was able to test ride three NC700s at two different Honda dealers. Look around and maybe there is a dealer willing to help you out.

I have never had a problem viewing the LCD (not LED) instrument panel.

The stock windscreen gives you a windy ride, but some have removed it and replaced it with a helmet faceshield just to cover the instrument panel. Removing the "fairing" would be a problem since it's integrated with the headlight and plastic bodywork.
 
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Thanks for the questions, webmost. I learned something. I've been wasting money on high octane. That will change with the next fill-up.
 
If the stock seat is almost good to you, try the "Showkey Mod". It is almost free and really does help. I tried it, but still ended up spending the $160 on a Seat Concepts seat. It's the cheapest aftermarket seat because you do most of the labor yourself.

I replaced my rear passenger seat with the HONDABIKEPRO rear rack. It doesn't protrude off the back and is sturdy enough to carry bulky cargo.

In the winter, with my short city commute, the lowest MPG I've gotten was 58. Out cruising at 65 mpg, with occasional stops, the best MPG I've gotten was 73. I average 62 overall, with mostly city riding.
 
As an off-road rider of the NC I’ll take stab at some of the questions. I’m in Arkansas which is Dual Sport heaven.
No loping or surging at idle. She is perfectly happy to ease her way through technical stuff in first at or just off idle. Plenty of torque available just off idle so I’m not constantly working the clutch.
Coming from a KLR you stand a good chance of being disappointed with her off-road. The KLR is a good large Dual Sport bike and being such is designed more as a dirt bike that can go on-road. The NC is an Adventure bike and as such is a road bike that can go off-road. Of the available Adventure bikes, the NC is more on the road side than say a BMW GS. It is also a lot less expensive than other Adventure bikes. With proper tires she is great on dirt/gravel roads and Forest Service roads. As it gets more technical then you have to slow down more than you would on the KLR. She can go through some pretty rough stuff but when it comes down to it she doesn’t have the ground clearance or 21” front tire of the KLR.

Low vs high front fender…….lots of discussion on this on the adv forum. They both have advantages depending on where you are riding. Low fender keeps the radiator cleaner so you don’t over heat but they can clog up with mud when you are in deep sticky mud. High fenders don’t clog with mud but they don’t block the spray on the radiator. I’ve never had a problem with sticks with the low fender and so far haven’t had the fender clog with mud to the point it caused problems.

I do recommend adding something like Racetech Gold valves to the front forks since the stock is low cost suspension. I also added 1” fork extenders for a little extra clearance.
 
Thanks for the questions, webmost. I learned something. I've been wasting money on high octane. That will change with the next fill-up.

I ALWAYS run high octane not for the octane rating BUT for the lack of ethanol in it. Up here in Canada lower octane rated fuel has 10% (at least if not more) ethanol in it. Small engines don't do well with ethanol so I run Shell Gold almost all the time!! (I should have bought shares in the company. LOL) All my small engines (lawn mower, generator, motorcycles, side-by-side, etc) run Shell Gold !!! For a few cents difference I prefer a cleaner running engine, after all it only costs me around $15 to fill with premium.
 
I can also add to this debate. I just sold my KLR (my ride for last season and this spring) I rode our west country (mountain trails, gravel, etc.) and I took a big trip to Vancouver Island and Hyder, Alaska last June/July. (LINK to trip Go West come Hell or High Water! Yamaha Super Tenere and Kawasaki KLR - ADVrider) Great bike for true off-road riding (a bit heavy but a different topic...sorry)

A KLR is more a 50/50 bike with larger front tire, which of course id better for going over logs and thru streams, etc. The NC is an adventure styled bike and will not be like the KLR. The NC700x is more of a 70/30(street/dirt) bike. I (and many others on here) have outfitted our NC700x's to be better offroad. Better tires, engine guards, hand guards,skid plates, etc. The NC can handle gravel and fire roads with easy BUT if you want to blaze a trail thru the bush ....a NC might not be the bike for you.

I wanted a bike that I could travel with AND go on gravel when I wanted. I love my NC and slowly not missing my KLR. The mileage I am getting with my NC is pretty good too (68,60 and 65 MPG last 3 tanks). It's been a good transition for me and LOVE MY HONDAS !!!!
 
Not to debate the pros/cons of ethanol, many newer small engines are now rated to run 10% ethanol. Trimmer I bought last year and Stihl chainsaw I bought this year is rated for it. The NC is rated for 10% ethanol.
 
Not to debate the pros/cons of ethanol, many newer small engines are now rated to run 10% ethanol. Trimmer I bought last year and Stihl chainsaw I bought this year is rated for it. The NC is rated for 10% ethanol.

BUT if the bike sits for any length of time (winter,etc) ...ethanol absorbs water and turns to gum...not good !!! ( again not trying to be difficult...LOL) And for a few cents difference (maybe a dollar) I will run high grade !!
 
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Greetings webmost. I can do 70 mph @ about 3700 r's. Having put close to 30,000 miles on my R1200CE (I was Zennart on the chromehead site) before transferring ownership to a gentleman in Massachusetts, I can give a little perspective about the way the NCX compares to the C. While the engine on the NCX is torquey, you'd have to be in 4th gear to match the speed of the C in 2nd. Seat comfort seems to be an issue on every new bike. At least it has been for me with various bikes over the years. I opted for the comfort seat off a Montauk to replace the standard issue leather my C came with. Handling on the NCX is as good as the Ducati MTS1100, which is what I replaced the C with. HUGE mistake, by the way! The C was a MUCH better machine, although not as good handling. There's a gentleman here, that goes by the nick of Hondabikepro, that fabricates the rear seat rack you mentioned, as well as some prototypes of auxiliary over the rear seat fuel tanks and other quality looking stuff. If you're intent on consolidating machines, I personally think the NCX will satisfy the requirements of both, road and light off road (if kept stock), needs. If you decide to keep one, I hope you'll keep the CLC, or try to trade it for a lighter C, as I thoroughly regret selling mine. Having said that, the NCX is an excellent all around bike. From highway speeds to urban commuting, it's a very capable bike. As far as effeciency, I'm averaging about 69 Mpg overall. And every mile of that average is documented on the fuelly.com site.

ps, sorry for the run on paragraph!
 
To throw a different perspective on things, I pretty much only commute on my NC.

I was originally going to do some light touring, but it's just not big enough for the wife and I to go two up and while she rides, her bike is even less suited to touring. If I was going to do real touring, this wouldn't be the bike I'd use.

My off-road experience is nil, so I'll refrain from comment there.

Speed, because of the efficiency of the motor is far from a priority. it's fast enough, but it's not going to make the heart pound with excitement.

Despite those things I really like the bike. It does what it's supposed to do very well. It's a Honda. The other day I realize what the NC really is. It's the Honda CRV of Adventure Bike. Sure it can go off-road, but if you are going to do that seriously you'd pick something else. If you were going to haul loads for miles, you'd pick something else. If you wanted to go fast or do track days, you'd pick something else.

If you want a comfortable, easy to ride, cheap to own, and reliable bike, then the NC is the right bike. This bike, for me anyway, isn't about passion, it's about practicality. And it's a very practical bike.
 
Not to debate the pros/cons of ethanol, many newer small engines are now rated to run 10% ethanol. Trimmer I bought last year and Stihl chainsaw I bought this year is rated for it. The NC is rated for 10% ethanol.

Where did you read that it's rated for ethanol?
 
BUT if the bike sits for any length of time (winter,etc) ...ethanol absorbs water and turns to gum...not good !!! ( again not trying to be difficult...LOL) And for a few cents difference (maybe a dollar) I will run high grade !!
Store a machine with a full tank and there will not be water in the fuel.
 
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