Adding Aux Front light (pictures)

[Brillot2000]

OK, gentlemen, I'm considering adding a secondary bright light in the front for those especially dark roads.

I found [THIS] (see photo)....but I confess I don't know the first thing about how to wire one
or even what light to use! (Suggestions on what light to use are MOST welcome)

'Be nice if it had a separate ON/OFF switch.

caution: if you use the word harness in your explanation, I will presume you're talking about a horse.
(yes, it's that bad)

What is the simplest way to add a light like the one below?

View attachment 27281

I am looking at installing an auxiliary driving light on Sparky as well now.

I have narrowed the choose to this unit, Brightsky 20W LED Black 0val Working Light.



Driving home after work in the dark is starting to get to be a pain again. The extra light will helpful and it will increase my visibility with other drivers too.

 

[TCRider]

I went these inexpensive LED lights from E-Bay. Big improvement in my opinion and they are of course wired thru a handlebar switch from the aux bus controlling a fused relay off the battery.

 

[Pianoman]

I have the same ones exactly but they're applied to the GIVI engine guards.

 

[StratTuner]

Final cut (pictures)

Here's what I decided to go with.

I pulled off the one light on the nose and replaced it with two lights on each side.
I used a piece of aluminum flat bar and bolted it to the underside of the nose...there are two holes under there, un used, just waiting for that.

The two lights are still less than $20 for both, and they do a bang up job.

Thank you too all who helped. (I hope I haven't worn out my welcome here.)

here are pictures.



I painted the flatbar flat black. NB: I did have to cut away a large part of the nose underside plastic to make this work.


All lights OFF.


Dim headlight ON...notice the nose LED strips are on with the Dim setting.


bright lights ON. Aux. lights also on and work from a simple ON/OFF switch by the display panel as before.

 

[itlives]

Good job, Don. Would you say the two are brighter than the other one?

 

[StratTuner]

Good job, Don. Would you say the two are brighter than the other one?

Yes. Each is as bright as the ONE I had before, and now I can aim them so they are slightly to the left and right of the center beam.

Here are the same three light pics I took before:
(I went back to the same spot with the TWO lights to make the demo the same)
1. low beam
2. high beam (no aux)
3. high beam (with aux)

 

[TCRider]

Nice work! I like the leds on the nose I may need to do that as just always on running lights.

 

[StratTuner]

Nice work! I like the leds on the nose I may need to do that as just always on running lights.

I never figured out what wire is for the running lights or where to tap it. If you do, please post, and I'll make that change.

 

[lootzyan]

I never figured out what wire is for the running lights or where to tap it. If you do, please post, and I'll make that change.

You connect to P/Bu (Pink/Blue) wire on 14P(Gray) connector to left handlebar switch.

 

[StratTuner]

You connect to P/Bu (Pink/Blue) wire on 14P(Gray) connector to left handlebar switch.

well yes... if you know how to open the left handlebar switch and if you want to run a bare wire down your handlebar and into the spaces under the instrument panel.
I was hoping to avoid that the "run the bare wire down the handlebar" part.

 

[lootzyan]

well yes... if you know how to open the left handlebar switch ...

You don't want to open switch. Just follow wires from the switch to 14p connector and find P/Bu (Pink/Blue) wire.

Or connect to fuse #2.

 

[StratTuner]

same problem as before... I have NO idea what you're talking about...

When I stand on the left side of the motorcycle and look down the forks...there's all sorts of wires...most are encased in fairly thick plastic and zealously zip tied. None of those are good candidates for tapping.

Now, if I can see.....whatever it is you're talking about.... from that vantage point...please instruct.
My guess is that you will want to remove large sections of the body work?

 

[lootzyan]

If you have a service manual look at a page 1-28 for Left Hand Switch Connector 14p (or tread #6). You may be able to reach it, disconnect and pull up. If not, you may need to remove some plastics.
Or maybe Honda harness be better solution for you.

 

[lootzyan]

If you decide to get Honda option harness you need to locate Option 6P Connector on left outside of frunk box. SM pp #1-63, 2-18.
That's a lot of covers to remove too.

 

[StratTuner]

You're kind to share what you know.
I'll just leave it as is...
It was painful just to get this far.
I'll keep a look out for that pink wire you mentioned.

 

[StratTuner]

Yes, I do have the service manual in printed and PDF form.

 

[lootzyan]

...It was painful just to get this far...

I just finished to install modulators for headlight and brake light on another bike... and I chiseled a pledge on a wall to never do that again.
To design something complicated is easy. To make something simple is an art only few can master.

 

[Pianoman]

I have these headlights installed and today, for the third time, one of the lights broke again. It started getting weaker and weaker and, in 10 seconds, the light came almost to zero (it has a light but very weak). The right one is OK.

How do you guys advise making the connection? I have the Honda harness and a switch. Is this correct?

I use plug into the Honda connector and then the positive wire goes to the switch and after that to the headlights. The negative wire goes straight from the Honda connector to the headlights.
Someone told me that it could be a problem regarding "ground". Is this possible?

 

[lootzyan]

...Someone told me that it could be a problem regarding "ground". Is this possible?

You are correct with your connection.
It shouldn't be a problem with a ground.
To be sure you may test connection with ohmmeter between harness' negative (green) wire and battery negative lead.

 

[StratTuner]

I used a "Posi-Tap" connector and tapped into the wire that feeds "bright" lights. The connector used to be on the back of the incandescent bulb, but since the LED light fixture ads an extra segment, it made the stock connector easier to work with.