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Advice on which to buy?

chay03

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My choices are:
A) used 2012 with 4000 miles for $4800 this title is with a bank lienholder
B) Used 2012 with 500 miles for $5500, he owes 5750 but said he can take less. bank lienholder
C) Used 2012 with 8000 miles $4250 but sitting for a year and non-op, and $400 of outstanding dmv fees.probabaly out of the question
D) New 2014 for $7100 OTD at a couple places.
E) Used 2013 with 1048 miles for $5600 OTD from a local dealership maybe has full inspection, OTD price including all dmv fees


Please advise as I am new to this forum and looking for a commuter with good mpg.
 
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Choice A is my pick. Although in 2012 models, you're stuck with only grey for color.

But as an alternative to choice D you can get yourself to Russellville, Arkansas and get a new 2014 for $5499. You pay the tax, title, and license fees when you get home.

Honestly, though, if MPG is important, then cost in general is likely to be important. It doesn't makes sense to buy a new bike. Buy used.
 
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Thanks all.
I thought about Russville but if I was going to go all the way out there, I'd probably dish out another 500 for the dct version. I did email them today to see if they'd ship to california. No response yet.
I'll let you know how things turn out.
 
The one with 8,000 miles probably also needs new tires, at least on the rear so even less of an apparent good deal.

Any of them with the Metzler's have tires that few have been happy with. I gave up and threw away my Metzlers with less than 4,000 miles on them.
 
Speaking of tires, the bike with 4000 miles on Metzelers will probably still have the same remaining tread life as the new 2014 model. The Metzelers had a typical life of around 8000 miles for the rear. The Dunlops on the 2014 are lucky to see half that in some cases. The key point here is that if you buy a new 2014 with Dunlop Trailmax tires, expect short tire life.
 
One thing with new is the warranty and you don't get any special surprises from the previous owners. It is really hard to determine what has been done or not done with/to the bike and it is the same with cars. Yes, you get immediate depreciation. Not being a mechanic, or even one who has ever changed his oil in his car, I didnt want to have to have a wrench in my hand a good portion of the time just to keep it running. No, 2012 is not an old bike, and the mileages are good. Mine is a new 2014 I purchased in January and it is sitting a hair below 6000 miles.

IMO, I would go for the New one. For the reasons above, and those are the same reasons I went with my new one.

A note on the tires, not all 2014 came with Dunlops. I had Pirelli Scorpion Trails on mine. The front is wearing nicely, but the rear was replaced due to a 3" gash that happened on my way to my MSF course... And that was at 3000 miles and the tread was wearing normally (should have gotten to at least 8000...)
 
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I would go with A and do like you would do with any used vehicle. Change the oil, check the air filter, clean and lube the chain, and snug up all the nuts & bolts, unless they have the paperwork showing where someone had already done the 600 mile service. You're going to get your money's worth out of the bike. Might as well keep that number as low as possible without getting the authorities involved (option C). OR, I'd offer the DMV people $3,500 out the door, tickets and all. The worst that could happen is they say no.
 
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just made some updates to the OP.
Russville is out of the question, but good deal for someone living closer.
Im leaning towards E) just because all fees are going to be paid and no headaches.
 
D or E and I would lean for D (new). A and B has the headache of a lienholder involved-could be easy, could be pita. C would probably be ok as long as the gas in tank doesn't smell like turpentine-if bike starts, running sea foam thru the system would take care of old gas deposits in the lines. I have bought 5 bikes since 07 and all new except the first one and it was at the dealer, less than a year old, with less than 1000 miles on the ODO (2006 Suzuki gz250).
 
Don't know if you're in Oceanside CA (San Diego County), but if so and you do decide to purchase out of state, make sure the model # has an 'L' in it,
(e.g., NC700XL, NC700XDL) which meets CA emissions standards. Discovered this talking to a dealership in Phoenix, AZ, who had better pricing than CA dealers.
 
If they have all the info on the suspension I would go for E. The bike is a much better ride with the suspension done, but spring rates are also chosen for your weight so you may want to know what weight it was setup for. I spent about 1500 parts and labor for my suspension, racetech everything front and rear and some front pre load adjusters from slingshot racing (way over priced for the quality).
 
Its a Honda so unless it has water damage or some major issue none of the mileages you listed should be of concern other then the regular maint needed like tires, brake fluids, oil, chains etc...if needed. Which one really depends on how much you want to spend and your impression of the bikes when you see them. Not sure of your location but if you keep shopping around or haggle you might be able to do a little better then $7100. I got mine OTD for $6500 and change. Anyway good luck
 
D.

But, only for three reasons.

1. You get the price down a good amount.
2. You plan on keeping the MC for many years.
3. You have test road and like NC.

In my town, there is a 2013 with the rear rack for $6,499 + other.
The 2014 is $6,999. No extras.

Granted, the NC is not a hloigan MC, so buying used is ok.
 
E, thanks for all your advice. It helped
I pick up today. Test rode it and it was great. Quicker than I expected.
Now, where to get a jacket at a good price locally? I'm in oceanside but I don't mind driving down to San Diego to find something.
Guy on CL has good deal for 2 tourmaster jackets for $80. It's drive up to Riverside but could be worth it.
 
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