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Anyone running Heated Gear?

wingnut

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Just moved over from a R1200GS and I'm wondering if anyone is running heated gear. Can the NC700 charging system support it? I run a jacket and gloves. Would love to add grips too... am I pushing the envelope???
 
I switched my headlight and taillight to leds to free up some amps, apparently not necessary but another excuse to switch to led.
Currently I've only got heated grips but thinking of getting a heated vest
 
I've been running Oxford Adventure heated grips, with heated jacket liner when it dips down between 40, in the past 4 seasons. It's been working fine but it appears to be the limit. I won't be able charge my phone on top of grips and liner. Jacket liner kept on cutting out.
 
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On both of my NC700Xs I've run a Gerbing jacket, gloves, heated grips, GPS with no issues whatsoever. My bikes have Clearwater Voltage Sensors to display system voltage when running and they never indicate a hint of a problem.
 
voltage meter reads 14.2 when everything is off (at 70mph), so that's a benchmark starting point.

I run heated grips, seat, and on rare occasions, I plug in a heated seat pad and zip that in under my coat! But, hey, it's California....

Doing the heated seat was easier than I thought it would be.

a short recipe is:
  • heated seat element - [HERE] $33
  • cheap staple gun - Home Depot $15
  • relay - [HERE] $13 for set of five

Mount the heated set switch (hight/off/low) into the left side of the seat for easy access while riding.
(NB: doesn't show in the photo, but I cut a piece of trash-can plastic almost the full size and shape of that leather panel and put it under the leather. It gives the switch something to hold on to. Yes, you do have to take a rather large drill to your seat, but you get over that.)
20181025_082203.jpg
 
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I've been running Oxford Adventure heated grips, with heated jacket liner when it dips down between 40, in the past 4 seasons. It's been working fine but it appears to be the limit. I won't be able charge my phone on top of grips and liner. Jacket liner kept on cutting out.
Are you sure that wasn't due to the limitations of how you set it up and not the bike as a whole?

If you used the accessory wires (that the OEM plug and heated grips hook up to) I remember that had one fuse for the whole accessory wiring harness, and I think that it was pretty low amp for that
 
If you want to control the intensity of the grip or seat heat, then you might search Amazon for

PWM Dimming Controller For LED Lights or Ribbon, 12 Volt 8 Amp,Adjustable Brightness Light Switch Dimmer Controller DC12V 8A 96W for Led Strip Light By Zitrades

or click [HERE]

I use one on the grip heat as that gets too hot sometimes. I could use one on the seat, but since it already has a LOW/HIGH setting, I haven't done it yet.
The adjustment is under my left hand. I have the resistance box under the plastic, and yes, I had to drill a hole.
I've used the "Tone" knob from a Fender Stratocaster to replace the boring knob it came with. (see picture)
20181025_150652.jpgread below...

I didn't notice it when I took the photo, but it shows all the switches I've added. One, at the base of the left mirror, controls the "fog" lights in the front.
the two underneath the handlear control heated grips and power to the USB devices.
there's even a small hole in the plastic, up and left, of the two switches. This is one LED from a flat strip LED. It comes on when I flip the heated-grips switch to "ON". Oddly enough, it gets brighter or dimmer depending on how I twist the "tone" knob! Unexpected, but cool.
 
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If you want to control the intensity of the grip or seat heat, then you might search Amazon for

PWM Dimming Controller For LED Lights or Ribbon, 12 Volt 8 Amp,Adjustable Brightness Light Switch Dimmer Controller DC12V 8A 96W for Led Strip Light By Zitrades

or click [HERE]

I use one on the grip heat as that gets too hot sometimes. I could use one on the seat, but since it already has a LOW/HIGH setting, I haven't done it yet.
The adjustment is under my left hand. I have the resistance box under the plastic, and yes, I had to drill a hole.
I've used the "Tone" knob from a Fender Stratocaster to replace the boring knob it came with. (see picture)
View attachment 37389read below...

I didn't notice it when I took the photo, but it shows all the switches I've added. One, at the base of the left mirror, controls the "fog" lights in the front.
the two underneath the handlear control heated grips and power to the USB devices.
there's even a small hole in the plastic, up and left, of the two switches. This is one LED from a flat strip LED. It comes on when I flip the heated-grips switch to "ON". Oddly enough, it gets brighter or dimmer depending on how I twist the "tone" knob! Unexpected, but cool.
That's awesome, I really like the idea of being able to adjust the heat with that much control. I'm currently shopping for a a vest
 
I run a warm and safe jacket and oxford heated grips. I also have a gps and a phone charging most of the time. Never had a problem.
 
Heated grips. (Symtec with a DIY PWM controller)
WarmNSafe: jacket, gloves, pants, socks
GPS = phone, USB adapter wired in.
LED headlight
LED aux light X 2
Voltmeter shows 14v all the time with all of the above
 
First battery made it 4.5 years with Heated Grips, Heated Gloves, Heated Jacket liner, and a set of running lights that are always on. Almost a year on a lithium battery with same setup and no issues.
 
Heated grips. (Symtec with a DIY PWM controller)
WarmNSafe: jacket, gloves, pants, socks
GPS = phone, USB adapter wired in.
LED headlight
LED aux light X 2
Voltmeter shows 14v all the time with all of the above

Does the number EVER go down? If it doesn't, then I humbly suggest it's not working.... If it just stays at 14 all the time.... hmmm... doesn't seem like that's what it should do when you start drawing from the battery.
 
Yes. It drops when starting to 13.8. But 14.2 is its happy place
 
DRDUBB
Can’t recall exactly but I think it was the running lights
 
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