• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

battery drain problem - deeply pondered

thanks for shedding some light on the gremlin in the electrical system. In my 2 years of ownership, the NC700X's battery did die on me once. It was right after I installed a HID kit and the bike sat idle over a 3 day weekend. I thought it was due to a bad installation job. But it was just a one time thing and never happen again.

Beemerphile. Keep us updated if your "cancer survivor" remains cancer free in the long run.
 
UPDATE: The battery protector tests well. It shuts off after 30 seconds below 12.2 volts. The reset switch is completely hidden but easily reached, so I am happy with the switch placement. It would make a nice secret anti-theft cutoff with the clock circuit fused to the battery directly. I wired my rear Powerlet outlet to the battery side of the switch. This will allow disconnecting the battery from the bike when charging - especially important with a high current charger. The only things I use the unswitched rear Powerlet outlet for are heated clothing and battery chargers. There is no danger of leaving a Gerbing jacket running when I leave the bike as it will unplug itself as I stupidly walk away. Everything else is switched and protected by the T5.

I am going to replace the rectifier/regulator with a new Honda OEM unit when it arrives and monitor the results. In an email from HondaBikePro he agreed that the change of rectifier part numbers in 2013 was likely a change of suppliers at Honda rather than an admission of a problem. He said that there were no service bulletins on the NC700x charging system and he has not seen much in the way of problems with them. I just see nothing else that could cause this condition. If I had it to do over again, instead of the OEM unit, I would have tried a Shindengen FH020AA R/R. What I'd really like to see is a MOSFET controlled series regulator. CompuFire might meet this spec. I have written them for more information, however, I suspect that it is SCR controlled like the Cycle Electric 605SB and the Shindengen SH775. The MOSFET Shindengen FH020AA would be my highest confidence replacement and as a super bonus it is cheaper by 50% than the Honda OEM unit.
 
Like others have said, thank you for posting your findings here. It's good to see you back on here, if only for a short while. I'm sure I'm not alone in saying that there are those of us who do miss your thoughtful, technical and well written posts. Good luck with what ever you decide to do with the NC and safe travels where ever you go with which ever bike you take! Hope you stick around for a bit too.:)
 
Echo....echo....echo....

I remember your posts when I first got here. Was perplexed by your absence.

Very good post. I most like that you reminded me I need the anti-gravity thing. Not to diminish your work at all, but I think I'll just keep my eye open for a parted out NC on Ebay, then question the seller about the R/R. The totaled/wrecked NC's are more and more. Mine was almost....

Very nice BMW you picked up. I like how you think in that you are going to use it. Oak floors are made for walking on.
 
ste7ios said:
My 2012 700XD has a Shindengen FH014AA (It's a MOSFET shut R/R). I wonder if changed in later models...
Click to expand...

The Honda P/N 31600-KVZ-631 rectifier/regulator is a Shindengen FH014AA and is a MOSFET shunt R/R as you have stated. The later model NC700x has a Honda 31600-MJJ-D31 part number. I have not yet discovered the manufacturer and model number of the replacement.
 
My 2013 has done the same thing. Only once, but it still makes a guy wonder. Rode to work every thing OK. Three days later the battery was stone dead. Fully charged the battery and has been OK. That was two weeks ago.
 
Bike sat for 4 days then started s..l.o..w..l..y. On 2nd start 3 miles down the road, the lcd went blank then came back and started. Seemed to idle slightly high for a few seconds too. Fingers crossed that it's only a battery that 2-3 years old.
 
Thanks for this excellent post, and detailed solution! And thanks to Therapy for alerting me to this post.

I too had this problem - once. Not understanding the electronics (except suspecting that a relay had not shut off) I had a much simpler theory - my battery went dead after I turned the bike on but I didn't start the engine. So I just don't do that any more - any time I want to turn the bike on, I start it right then or shortly thereafter. And (knock on wood) the bike has started every time since then. If it happens again in spite of my incantations, I'll favor a really straightforward switch on the battery. And moto-size jumper cables?

This has been partly hashed out here.

Whatever happened to kickstarters?
 
dakotamiles said:
Thanks for this excellent post, and detailed solution! And thanks to Therapy for alerting me to this post.

I too had this problem - once. Not understanding the electronics (except suspecting that a relay had not shut off) I had a much simpler theory - my battery went dead after I turned the bike on but I didn't start the engine. So I just don't do that any more - any time I want to turn the bike on, I start it right then or shortly thereafter. And (knock on wood) the bike has started every time since then. If it happens again in spite of my incantations, I'll favor a really straightforward switch on the battery. And moto-size jumper cables?

This has been partly hashed out here.

Whatever happened to kickstarters?
Click to expand...

Really!
My 70s 550F was one of the ones that had both. Not any more.
I want to know how to bump start the DCT. Not just jump it!
 
Therapy said:
Really!
My 70s 550F was one of the ones that had both. Not any more.
I want to know how to bump start the DCT. Not just jump it!
Click to expand...
Can't bump start a fuel injection motor with a dead battery. No battery power > no fuel pressure from electric pump > no fuel to engine > motor won't run. You would have to push fast enough in gear for the alternator to generate power for the fuel pump.
 
Great post and just trying to catch up on what has caused my battery to die- it was flat dead after only 2 days- and this was my second battery since purchasing the bike new. Now a third battery after less than 40K miles on my 2012 NCX? I took the voltage on it and it's only 10.6 volts-completely discharged. Tried charging up overnight on a 2 amp 'trickle' and in the morning it's only 11 volts- this is a AGM Power Source WPZ 14S- $100 a pop. I'll replace the battery but now am wondering after reading this which R/R to get. If I get a stock one I'll probably have the same problem. Beemerphile mentions the CompuFire Mosfet controlled series regulator but to date haven't seen an update regarding that and wondering if others have seen anything on that or tired the MOSFET Shindengen FH020AA used instead. I would hate to replace my R/R unit with the stock one and have the same thing happen. It certainly appears based on the start of his update that his switch is working as a result of the R/R discharging to the preset voltage. Thus the problem is the R/R. Right? If so, has anyone ordered the R/R and which one did you get for 2012 or does the year even matter?


Beemerphile said:
UPDATE: The battery protector tests well. It shuts off after 30 seconds below 12.2 volts. The reset switch is completely hidden but easily reached, so I am happy with the switch placement. It would make a nice secret anti-theft cutoff with the clock circuit fused to the battery directly. I wired my rear Powerlet outlet to the battery side of the switch. This will allow disconnecting the battery from the bike when charging - especially important with a high current charger. The only things I use the unswitched rear Powerlet outlet for are heated clothing and battery chargers. There is no danger of leaving a Gerbing jacket running when I leave the bike as it will unplug itself as I stupidly walk away. Everything else is switched and protected by the T5.

I am going to replace the rectifier/regulator with a new Honda OEM unit when it arrives and monitor the results. In an email from HondaBikePro he agreed that the change of rectifier part numbers in 2013 was likely a change of suppliers at Honda rather than an admission of a problem. He said that there were no service bulletins on the NC700x charging system and he has not seen much in the way of problems with them. I just see nothing else that could cause this condition. If I had it to do over again, instead of the OEM unit, I would have tried a Shindengen FH020AA R/R. What I'd really like to see is a MOSFET controlled series regulator. CompuFire might meet this spec. I have written them for more information, however, I suspect that it is SCR controlled like the Cycle Electric 605SB and the Shindengen SH775. The MOSFET Shindengen FH020AA would be my highest confidence replacement and as a super bonus it is cheaper by 50% than the Honda OEM unit.
Click to expand...
 
As far as why your bike keeps killing batteries, well it seems that some of them just do that - mine being one. Some folks had great fun explaining that it was because of all my extra circuits until a couple of them showed up box stock with the same issue. This post explains what I finally did...

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/9646-extreme-farkling-series-regulator.html?highlight=regulator

As far as follow-up, it and the EarthX 36 battery are both still performing flawlessly (though not for long enough to mean anything).

surf1div1 said:
Thus the problem is the R/R. Right? If so, has anyone ordered the R/R and which one did you get for 2012 or does the year even matter?
Click to expand...

I don't KNOW that the R/R was the problem, but surmised that it was most likely to be the problem even though there was no evidence to convict it. As far as the year mattering, there was a part number change, but it is not clear what the change was.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, it has been too long and I do not remember. I would be guessing now. Did the unit not come with a wiring diagram?
 
Beemerphile said:
Sorry, it has been too long and I do not remember. I would be guessing now. Did the unit not come with a wiring diagram?
Click to expand...

no wiring diagram, I'll just try to get a response from the company.

I'm thinking its either an input you connect to something that's only hot when the bike is turned on (as a backup method to prevent disconnects when the engine is running)
OR
its an output used to keep specific things on even when the battery has been otherwise disconnected by the unit, what I've seen on other units referred to as the "accessory" connection.

Thanks for responding!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ewen
Frunk USB v2
Replies
3
Views
667
halfSpinDoctor
halfSpinDoctor
Dawn Treader
Question Thunderbox and battery tender
Replies
5
Views
512
670cc
670cc
J
How To Automatic garagedoor opener by presence via WiFi for just $12
Replies
9
Views
487
Rabbit
R
A
Need Help NC750X Check engine on, clear error codes
Replies
6
Views
409
DeVito
D
ti_ti_ta
Need Help 2016 NC700XD electrical gremlin
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
mzflorida
mzflorida
Back
Top