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Bike won’t change gear

Wedders

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I’ve searched the forum but can’t find any relevant threads so looking for help.
Over the winter and beyond I’ve done a lot of mods to my bike including changing the colour. I eventually finished my work and went out today on a test run. It was a disaster abs light didn’t go out, MIL light on, but worst of all it wouldn’t change gear. It goes into first and neutral but nothing else, not even manual. I’ve done a DCT reset removed the gear change motor and stripped and cleaned it but still no joy. Can anyone give me an idea of what could be wrong?? Thanks
 
Start first with a list of any changes you have made that may have affected your original electrical connections. Check all major electrical connections. For this you will probably need to remove panels. We know you are experienced with this, as you mentioned in one of your previous posts: "... at first I felt reluctant to remove the panels but bit the bullet. I have now removed them for various jobs and installations and could do it blindfolded ... "
If you came to any experienced shop asking for help, you would get a similar response: "Only you know where the problem is because you created it. So tell us what you screwed up so we'll try not to screw up your screw up".
 
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BTW, ABS sensors have no effect on the operation of the DCT.

The ABS wheel sensors gather differential speed data used for ABS operation and the road speed they measure is necessary for DCT commands from the PCM. If the wheel sensors are inoperative or sense the rear wheel is spinning much faster than the front the bike will correctly shift into first and back to neutral but not shift to second or higher. Certain faults place the DCT in a programmed Limp Mode of first gear only.

There might be something else wrong and don't claim to be an expert. I have had a sensor fault on my 2015 and it went into Limp Mode and acted like your bike.
 
The ABS wheel sensors gather differential speed data used for ABS operation and the road speed they measure is necessary for DCT commands from the PCM....
You're right. My mistake.
I was confused by the old information from the Honda Tech Bulletin. The question there was what would happen if the ABS sensor was disconnected. The answer was that only the ABS would stop working. Brakes working normally.
Of course, the PCM needs information from the front wheel for DCT to function.
 
Probably wouldn't hurt to buy the adapter plug that allows you to plug up a standard OBD II scan tool to it and clear the MIL. This happened on my 2016 as I had it in gear on the center stand while lubing the chain. I bought the adapter and already had a cheap $20 OBD II scan tool, cleared the MIL and the issue went away. Probably nothing wrong with your bike, just needs the code/light cleared and be good to go....hopefully.
 
Probably wouldn't hurt to buy the adapter plug that allows you to plug up a standard OBD II scan tool to it and clear the MIL. This happened on my 2016 as I had it in gear on the center stand while lubing the chain. I bought the adapter and already had a cheap $20 OBD II scan tool, cleared the MIL and the issue went away. Probably nothing wrong with your bike, just needs the code/light cleared and be good to go....hopefully.
Good to hear from you again. If it’s just a problem triggered by an ABS fault a code reader isn’t necessary. I’m pretty sure the MIL triggered by a rear wheel overspeed is reset by returning to neutral and turning off the engine. This happened to me deep in the Osceola National Forest. Florida has areas of white sugar sand and I lost momentum in a patch of this sand. I spun up the rear wheel getting the bike out of the sand and lit up the ABS light. A blinking light if I recall. The bike would not shift out of first gear and I was a long way from home. I shut the bike off to think about the situation and when I restarted it the ABS light was solid and the bike ran and shifted normally.
 
Thanks for all the ideas and comments. I will try to respond to them all at once.
1. When playing with any wiring on my bike I made sure that I didn’t compromise the existing wiring of the main systems. The only alterations are, plugging in a Rapid Bike Easy to the O2 sensor. I also have a Healtech Speedohealer and an Amplink wired direct from the battery for my accessories.
2. I have checked and cleaned the ABS sensors but don’t know how to test them.
3. I have a scanner for the OBD 2 which I’ve used. It shows P1500 speed sensor fault which I’ve cleared.
4. Oh and yes I’m very proficient at removing the bodywork can do it blindfolded.
Thanks again please keep the ideas coming.

Thinking about the suggestions do you think it could be a dodgy ABS sensor??
 
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The speedometers on NCs are very accurate. Why did you install the Speedohealer and is it set to change the displayed speed?
 
There is not much to advise here.
You have many healing things installed - but "the patient" is dead.
And that is the answer for you.
Go back to the basics. Install one thing at a time and check how "the patient" is doing.
I guess that's the most logical thing to do.
 
The speedometers on NCs are very accurate. Why did you install the Speedohealer and is it set to change the displayed speed?
Not so on bikes built for every other market than the US.
My NC is optimistic by 6%, exactly the same amount as my Goldwing was.
I had a Speedohealer on my 'Wing.
I didn't bother with one on the NC.
I just use my GPS speedo; much cheaper and easier than installing the 'Healer.
 
Not so on bikes built for every other market than the US.
My NC is optimistic by 6%, exactly the same amount as my Goldwing was.
I had a Speedohealer on my 'Wing.
I didn't bother with one on the NC.
I just use my GPS speedo; much cheaper and easier than installing the 'Healer.
Agreed. Back in 2012 we had discussions on the NC speedo accuracy topic where one camp said speedometers were super accurate when other camps claimed 5% error. We figured out that Honda was apparently intentionally supplying different speedometer designs to different world markets.
 
Honda warns not to change the stock gearing or tire sizes in order to avoid possible DCT malfunction. There is some tolerance here we are aware of but if the Healtech unit is applying a correction factor that alters the expected relationships between the suite of transmission and wheel sensors outside of that tolerance value the DCT wouldn’t shift out of first gear. The Healtech module is the first thing I’d disconnect in search of the problem.
 
The speedometers on NCs are very accurate. Why did you install the Speedohealer and is it set to change the displayed speed?
I changed the front sprocket down 1 tooth much better ride but threw out the speedo. Speedohealer cured it and the bike has been fine up to this problem.
Also forgot to add originally, tried to do a DCT reset and failed. The d & s won’t go out when started.

I think that I’ll start with changing back the sprocket and removing the Speedohealer and see what happens.
 
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Honda warns not to change the stock gearing or tire sizes in order to avoid possible DCT malfunction. There is some tolerance here we are aware of but if the Healtech unit is applying a correction factor that alters the expected relationships between the suite of transmission and wheel sensors outside of that tolerance value the DCT wouldn’t shift out of first gear. The Healtech module is the first thing I’d disconnect in search of the problem.
Today refitted the original front sprocket removed the Speedohealer and cleared the MIL.
Test ride still in 1st abs light on and MIL light back on again.
Loads more head scratching. Thought I’ll just change the speed sensors until I priced them at £321 each.
 
...Test ride still in 1st abs light on and MIL light back on again...
I guess you are not using the troubleshooting steps given in the Service Manual. This is a proven and cost effective method.
I can give you one example from the 2015 CTX700 Service Manual on ABS diagnostics. It may be close to your model but I can't guarantee the connector diagram is the same.
There are also steps on how to test the ABS sensors.

Capture 1.jpg

Capture 2.jpg
 
I guess you are not using the troubleshooting steps given in the Service Manual. This is a proven and cost effective method.
I can give you one example from the 2015 CTX700 Service Manual on ABS diagnostics. It may be close to your model but I can't guarantee the connector diagram is the same.
There are also steps on how to test the ABS sensors.

View attachment 49619

View attachment 49620
Thanks for the info.
To be honest I have read the information but, I have read that much I’m confusing myself and I thought my brain was younger than it is and I am looking for someone to answer it for me. I used to be that person but I have to accept that I no longer can do the complex stuff.
 
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ABS sensor testing consists of check:
1. the sensor for physical damage
2. check the sensor wires continuity to ( shorted) ground. ( pinched under bolt or bracket)
3. Check the sensor wires continuity ( open) to the ABS Control unit. ( broken wire internally, soft set connector)
4. Install new sensor ( known good) test ride. ($$$ last resort part substitution.)

If the wheels were removed during service. The ABS sensors are subject to physical damage during installation. This a common cause for the sensor failure are tire exchange. Seems the rear sensor is damaged more often than the front.
 
...To be honest I have read the information but, I have read that much I’m confusing myself and I thought my brain was younger than it is and I am looking for someone to answer it for me. I used to be that person but I have to accept that I no longer can do the complex stuff.
Don't scare me. It may be that we are the same age or I am older.
We know from your activity in this forum that you have made a lot of improvements. Certainly some of them required study of the instructions.
Testing electrical connections is not that complicated. Getting to the right connector is perhaps more difficult. And this you already know how to do.
Testing the ABS system is pretty well described. If there is no signal from the ABS sensor (wheel speed sensor) the trouble codes (DTC) should appear. One from the DCT system and at least three from the ABS system. That is, it should blink DCT gear indicator and ABS light. And since this is not in your case, you start by checking the overall connection of the ABS module as given in the example above.
This is for starters.
 
I have given up for the first time ever. The bike is in a Honda dealer so let’s see what happens.
Thanks to all that tried to help.
 
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