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Bike won't start- all apears normal.

I’m glad you’re running again, but the explanation is just too simple, so I’d be skeptical. The dealer sold you a brand new battery that very quickly resulted in nearly the same symptoms as your original issue? How was this battery prepared and stored, and how can you know the second new one is any better?

If this were me, I’d want to have full control of the situation. I would want to activate (add initial acid to) a new battery myself, charge it properly, and monitor it’s condition. I’d also be checking the bike’s charging system and checking for parasitic drain.
 
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I’ve had brand new car batteries be bad a couple times. Seems like they should thoroughly test motorcycle batteries given the somewhat PITA they are to install.


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If this were me, I’d want to have full control of the situation. I would want to activate (add initial acid to) a new battery myself, charge it properly, and monitor it’s condition.

The bike uses and AGM battery. Acid is put in at the factory and then the battery is sealed. Welcome to the 21st century.
 
The bike uses and AGM battery. Acid is put in at the factory and then the battery is sealed. Welcome to the 21st century.

Right. I was confusing the NC’s YTZ battery with the YTX20 in my Goldwing. Sorry.

But it is the 21st century and we have YTX batteries that ship dry.
 
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All batteries should have a date code. Make sure you get a battery that was built recently. Last time I was at Walmart, a glance at the car battery shelf showed batteries from 1 month old to two years!

JT
 
They’ve but it’s usually coded as top secret... You may contact the manufacturer to decode it.

The other thing you can do is to fully charge it and measure it properly as described in Yuasa’s technical manual to see if it can hold all of the charge (See the state of charge table and all of that chapter about high performance batteries. You have to compensate the measurement to temperature when not 77°F). For Yuasa and Varta high performance batteries is 13.0 to 12.9V.
 
If inferior battery technology is a reasonable price to pay for your need to control, then go for it. I'd rather get a better battery: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University

The YTX may be old technology, but it works pretty well. The YTX batteries in my Goldwing easily last 8 years. One of them I pulled from the bike at 8 years age and then installed it in a lawn mower for another 3 years, after which I just decided to retire it even though it was still working.

I do use the YTZ AGM battery in the NC.
 
If inferior battery technology is a reasonable price to pay for your need to control, then go for it. I'd rather get a better battery: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University

AGM is a term to describe the battery construction not the time of filling.

A battery like a YTX12-BS or a YTX20L-BS ( for your Goldwing 670cc) is an AGM. It's just shipped dry with an acid pack in a shippable container and the buyer or dealer adds the acid and seals the battery when it's prepped for service. These allow manufacturers to ship AGMs that keep on a shelf indefinitely as opposed to an AGM that must be stock rotated and maintained with an occasional charge while in storage.
 
AGM is a term to describe the battery construction not the time of filling.

A battery like a YTX12-BS or a YTX20L-BS ( for your Goldwing 670cc) is an AGM. It's just shipped dry with an acid pack in a shippable container and the buyer or dealer adds the acid and seals the battery when it's prepped for service. These allow manufacturers to ship AGMs that keep on a shelf indefinitely as opposed to an AGM that must be stock rotated and maintained with an occasional charge while in storage.

Thank you for that clarification, Dave. So yes, these are AGM batteries that you fill yourself. I knew I'd filled a bunch of them, I just hadn't paid enough attention to realize that the YTZ was always factory filled while the YTX you do yourself.

AGM Batteries Comparison Chart | Yuasa Battery Inc.

The Motocross brand (by Yuasa) YTX12 is 75% the cost of the same brand's YTZ12, although the cranking amps is 15% lower. I may look into the YTX's compatibility with the NC and our Honda Reflex, since I've always had good luck with them. I like that I know that they're freshly activated when I do it myself.
 
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What is the filling practice? I know you're adding the acid, but is it "Idiot Proof"?

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What is the filling practice? I know you're adding the acid, but is it "Idiot Proof"?

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It's very idiot proof. The acid container has 6 individual compartments that align with the battery's cells. Each acid container compartment top is sealed with a thin membrane. The battery's cell fill ports have semi sharp edges that will puncture the membrane. When you're ready to fill the battery, you invert the acid pack, align it with the battery cells, and push down to break the membrane seals. The proper amount of acid then slowly flows down into each of the cells simultaneously. You just leave the acid pack inverted for the suggested time until all the acid has drained into the battery. You remove the empty acid pack and dispose of it. You then place a "permanent" cap strip on the battery fill ports, never to be removed again for the life of the battery. The permanent cap was the protective cap that came on the acid pack. See picture in post #50.

I've done this process several times and never had any hint of a spill or leak.
 
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It's very idiot proof. The acid container has 6 individual compartments that align with the battery's cells. Each acid container compartment top is sealed with a thin membrane. The battery's cell fill ports have semi sharp edges that will puncture the membrane. When you're ready to fill the battery, you invert the acid pack, align it with the battery cells, and push down to break the membrane seals. The proper amount of acid then slowly flows down into each of the cells simultaneously. You just leave the acid pack inverted for the suggested time until all the acid has drained into the battery. You remove the empty acid pack and dispose of it. You then place a "permanent" cap strip on the battery fill ports, never to be removed again for the life of the battery.

I've done this process several times and never had any hint of a spill or leak.
Thank you very much kind Sir!

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I caution against ordering a YTZ prefilled AGM battery online, unless you know for sure how old it is. I had bought (2) over the yrs that obviously were old and not changed enough/or too long in between. They lasted 3-1/2 to 5 months. Of course the warranty was 90 days. The Suzuki DRZ That I owned had an oddball battery ( small too), so difficult to find/ buy local. I like Yuasa batteries. But now I only buy the YTX /that you fill and charge yourself and install. And please-ALLWAYS charge the new battery on a (.75-1.25 amp smart charger before you install it. I’ve owned many mc,s and have learned to keep them on a smart charger when ever I’m not out riding to get the longest life out of them.
 
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While not being a battery expert-Just a little tid- bit of info, if two batteries of equal size and made to fit a certain bike, the one that weighs more will usually have more/ thicker lead plates and maybe a higher CCA, and usually last longer ( all other circumstances being the same). After owning 30 bikes over the last 50 yrs, I have bought,used,serviced my share of batteries.
 
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