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Brake bleeder hose diameter

GregC

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Hoping to replace brake pads this weekend on my 2015 DCT (EBC HH pads). Will change the brake fluid while I’m at it.

Question: what diameter bleeder hose? I’ve seen both 1/4” and 3/8” quoted. I’m using the stock bleeders in the 2-man operation (no speed bleeders or vacuum system).

Thanks.


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Clear vinyl tube is often sold by the OD. 3/8” OD tubing is about 1/4” ID which works just fine. 5/16 OD is tighter fit and the fit.........all the choices is very dependent on temperature and flexibility of the tubing.
 
I bought a bleeder kit at Advance Auto Parts for something like $10, has a clear tube with 3 different size rubber fittings that fit onto the bleeders, the other end connects onto a non spillable cup to catch the fluid. The smallest bleeder fitting fit the NC perfectly. Super easy kit to use. Went in to buy clear tube and rig up my own catch bottle, but they didn't have any clear tube by itself so I bought the bleeder kit. Worked out pretty good. So if all else fails, visit your local parts store, they should have whatever you need to get it done.

P.S....dont do like I did and buy a large bottle of dot4....large bottles are harder to pour without making a mess. If needed, buy 2 small bottles so that you have plenty on hand to flush the system good. But it doesn't take much to fill up the reservoirs a few times, so one small bottle would probably suffice.

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Great advice - thanks all. One last question for those that have done this — since I’m doing pads and fluid, is it pads then fluid, or fluid then pads?

My plan would be change the pads first then change the fluid - thought being to have the correct pad thickness in for the fluid change (recognizing we’re only talking mm of difference).

But, in case there’s some meaningful difference in the order of work I’m missing, thought I’d ask. [emoji16]


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Great advice - thanks all. One last question for those that have done this — since I’m doing pads and fluid, is it pads then fluid, or fluid then pads?

My plan would be change the pads first then change the fluid - thought being to have the correct pad thickness in for the fluid change (recognizing we’re only talking mm of difference).

But, in case there’s some meaningful difference in the order of work I’m missing, thought I’d ask. [emoji16]


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Changing the pads first makes sense. If you need to press the pistons back in to allow space for the new pads, you’ll be wanting to suck some fluid out of the reservoir to have room. You might as well suck most of it out anyway at the start of the fluid change and start the bleed process with as much fresh fluid as possible.

When you are finished with the bleeding, you’ll set the level in the reservoir and you’re done.
 
Make sure the reservoir has been emptied before you start pushing the pistons back into the caliper, otherwise spillage may damage the paint. Once the pistons are flush in the caliper, suck the remaining old fluid out, clean the bottom of the reservoir with a fresh paper towel, then refill and reinstall cover. Now, you'll only have a tiny bit of old fluid to bleed from the system.

Be sure to top off once the bleeding is completed.

ps. whatever size tubing you use, try and buy a thin-wall version because it'll be a lot easier to slip over the bleed nipple.
 
I'm not sure that I would be emptying the reservoir, as that could lead to accidental air in the lines if you are not careful. I didn't suck any fluid out of either reservoir when I done mine either, just simply bled it out until there wasn't much left in the reservoir, fill to top, bleed that out til reservoir level is low again, fill and repeat until fluid runs clear. You definitely can suck the fluid out, if you have something to do that with, I didn't at the time so I just ran fluid through each reservoir about 4 times.

You should be able to change your brake pads without doing anything to the brake fluid first, even removing the reservoir caps. If the reservoir caps are not removed, there will not be any chance of spilling.

The way I would do it is change brake pads first, then flush fluid. I've never had an issue opening calipers enough for new pads on motorcycles to fit back on the rotor.

I've even put the new pads in, wrapped a cloth around end of flat head screwdriver, carefully wedge between the pads to open them enough to go onto the rotors. I know that's not ideal, but it can be done without damaging the pads.

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Unless you have added brake fluid since your last pad change, I don't think the fluid can overflow the fill reservoir when pushing the pistons back to fit the new pads.

As the pad wear, the pistons will naturally have to push out further. That will cause more fluid to be pumped from the reservoir into the brake lines (hence the need for a "reservoir" of fluid).

When the pistons are pushed back to make room for the new, thicker pads the original volume of fluid will be pumped back into the reservoir. That volume of fluid never changes unless (obviously) more fluid was added at some point previously, when the pistons were in the "out" position.

I typically have a difficult time getting that rock solid brake feel after a fluid or brake pad change. I found wrapping a bungee cord (or large rubber band) around the brake levers so that the brakes are "applied" and leaving it over night will do the trick. The result is a nice tight brake lever with no spongy feel at all.

To be safe, you can always pull a bit of fluid from the reservoir, it isn't going to hurt anything but I've never had to do it.
 
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It seems Rocky Mt ATV send me the wrong from brake pads. I specified 2015 NC700x DCT ... they sent EBC HH #FA388HH. They are considerably too long. It seems the package had a new part number sticker put on (see last photo). Perhaps that's the mistake?

can anyone confirm front and rear EBC HH part numbers for a 2015 NC700x DCT? I've checked 3 different sites and they all say FA388HH, but these are just clearly too long (tried fitting them in the caliper just in case, but no chance of working).

IMG_3304.jpgIMG_3305.jpgIMG_3306.jpg
 
It seems Rocky Mt ATV send me the wrong from brake pads. I specified 2015 NC700x DCT ... they sent EBC HH #FA388HH. They are considerably too long. It seems the package had a new part number sticker put on (see last photo). Perhaps that's the mistake?

can anyone confirm front and rear EBC HH part numbers for a 2015 NC700x DCT? I've checked 3 different sites and they all say FA388HH, but these are just clearly too long (tried fitting them in the caliper just in case, but no chance of working).

View attachment 39041View attachment 39040View attachment 39042
Hopefully this helps

EBC vs OEM brake pads

It looks to me like these should fit

FA174HH (DCT) rear pads EBC HH

I just ordered a set of rear pads for my non DCT model for the second time yesterday,
I had the same problem of receiving the wrong pads and simply returned them.
It's been awhile and I decided to try again.

My stock original pads still have 80% life in them (I very rarely use my rear brake) but I want something that grabs better, especially for off road
 
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You gotta grind off the end to make it fit.






Kidding. I hate when that happens, and with shipping prolonging it even further. Maybe you'll get it slicked out soon and back to riding it!

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Does post #8 of this thread answer the your question:

2015 DCT Brake Replacement

From the above link:
IIRC the EBC catalogue lists 12-17 models together but actually you will want 2014-2015 for your bike as earlier models use a different caliper up front.

I’m traveling this morning and can’t look it up but I’m 99% sure the 2015 ABS/DCT takes FA196 pads in front and FA174 in the back. The suffix will be HH for sintered metal pad material. 388s should fit only 12-13 ABS/DCT models.
 
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HONDA STREETBIKE NC 700 Motorcycle - Perfect Brakes Discs, Pads and Shoes

The link above I got from the EBC website for US distribution. My understanding is that the 2015x DCT is an ABS model so I selected XD (Auto G/box/ABS) which should cover the 12-17 model years. From this it appears that the front brake can be a FA388HH. This is the same thing that is used on my 700S which I have physically confirmed the fit on. The rear in an HH pad should be FA140HH. You should be able to confirm the size by measuring the pads from their longest points and comparing them to the dims on the site for the new pads.

Hope that helps.
 
Does post #8 of this thread answer the your question:

2015 DCT Brake Replacement

From the above link:
IIRC the EBC catalogue lists 12-17 models together but actually you will want 2014-2015 for your bike as earlier models use a different caliper up front.

I’m traveling this morning and can’t look it up but I’m 99% sure the 2015 ABS/DCT takes FA196 pads in front and FA174 in the back. The suffix will be HH for sintered metal pad material. 388s should fit only 12-13 ABS/DCT models.

I saw Dave’s post and then forgot to go back to it. It must be the the FA196 because there’s no way the ones they sent do.

Thanks. Fortunately theres still pad left up front - only one pad was “near” the wear indicator. The rear is actually fine but I’m going to replace to that the EBCs are front and rear.


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Seems the actual EBC catalog (at least the one here: EBC-2019-Intl-Full-Catalogue) doesn’t even list NC700x DCT after 2014 - all the 700x’s are listed using the 388 front pads.

They do list the 750x for 2015 using the 196 front pads.

I’m so confused. [emoji2369]. I’ve got a message into Rocky Mtn, but of course that blows the plan of replacing brakes this weekend.

Guess I’ll just have to ride [emoji16]


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Seems the actual EBC catalog (at least the one here: EBC-2019-Intl-Full-Catalogue) doesn’t even list NC700x DCT after 2014 - all the 700x’s are listed using the 388 front pads.

They do list the 750x for 2015 using the 196 front pads.

I’m so confused. [emoji2369]. I’ve got a message into Rocky Mtn, but of course that blows the plan of replacing brakes this weekend.

Guess I’ll just have to ride [emoji16]


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Use the USA catalog. The NC700X wasn't sold anywhere else after 2014 - only in the USA.

Or just order the FA196s :cool:
 
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