Chain Wearing out?

Skinnymoss

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I have 8000 miles on my bike. 2015 NC700 Manual.

Chain seems like in decent condition. I know there have been from other issues with stock chain. But the alignment indicator is in the “red” zone. I also know some Alignment indicators are off. I ride hard. both sprockets seemed fine.

Am I due for a new chain? Looking at DID VX3 Kit from SprocketCenter.com
 

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670cc

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If the chain has no tight links and you still have adjustment range on the swingarm, I would continue to use the chain. It seems the original chains most always fail from multiple tight links before they would need replacement from wear.
 

halfSpinDoctor

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My bike just rolled thru 8,000 mi with the stock chain. There is still plenty of range for adjustment, but even with regular cleaning and lubrication there are multiple tight links. I can actually see o-rings that have deteriorated and are bulging out, indicating that for those links there is probably no grease left inside to keep them lubricated.

I think I am going to keep the chain on for the rest of the summer, then swap it out before fall. I've already ordered replacement chain/sprocket set.
 

670cc

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My bike just rolled thru 8,000 mi with the stock chain. There is still plenty of range for adjustment, but even with regular cleaning and lubrication there are multiple tight links. I can actually see o-rings that have deteriorated and are bulging out, indicating that for those links there is probably no grease left inside to keep them lubricated.

I think I am going to keep the chain on for the rest of the summer, then swap it out before fall. I've already ordered replacement chain/sprocket set.
You might want to consider the possibility that the "regular cleaning" is what damaged your O-rings.
 

halfSpinDoctor

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"Regular cleaning" = Wiping with a soft rag/shop towel and using a toothbrush to remove rust on the sides of the links (not inside them).

But to not be snarky, I do get it - a lot of people brush the hell out of them, use wire brushes, solvent that erodes the o-rings, etc. Often, leaving something alone even if it is slightly dirty, is MUCH better than doing the wrong thing to it.

I bought it used, and it was in so-so shape to begin with. It's a wear item and needs to be replaced at some point.
 

Skinnymoss

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Hey Yall.

Ended up changing the chain out, since it was loose of the rear sprocket once I lifted it.

I ended up buying the DID VX3 Kit from SprocketCenter.com - $155 after tax. 43T Rear (Stock) and 15T front( -1) was looking for little more power. The only question I had I found the torque settings for Front socket 40 FT/lbs, but I saw on other forums the Torque settings for the rear Sprocket as 80 FT/Lbs. I set it to 50 FT/lbs for now. What do you guys think? I couldn’t find it in the manual....? On the “Torque Specifications” Page It wasn’t available.

Also put blue locktite, on the front/rear bolts, whichI regret,As I suspect I will have to tighten rear sprocket.
 

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670cc

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Hey Yall.

Ended up changing the chain out, since it was loose of the rear sprocket once I lifted it.

I ended up buying the DID VX3 Kit from SprocketCenter.com - $155 after tax. 43T Rear (Stock) and 15T front( -1) was looking for little more power. The only question I had I found the torque settings for Front socket 40 FT/lbs, but I saw on other forums the Torque settings for the rear Sprocket as 80 FT/Lbs. I set it to 50 FT/lbs for now. What do you guys think? I couldn’t find it in the manual....? On the “Torque Specifications” Page It wasn’t available.

Also put blue locktite, on the front/rear bolts, whichI regret,As I suspect I will have to tighten rear sprocket.

I, too, have concerns over the specified torque in the manual for the rear sprocket nuts. I seriously think the manual is in error. So, like you, I torqued the sprocket nuts to about 40 ft lbs. 80? Wow, that’s like a rear axle nut value. Makes no sense.
 

Skinnymoss

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I, too, have concerns over the specified torque in the manual for the rear sprocket nuts. I seriously think the manual is in error. So, like you, I torqued the sprocket nuts to about 40 ft lbs. 80? Wow, that’s like a rear axle nut value. Makes no sense.

670 CC thanks. I totally agree this was my first time replacing a chain. However, I couldn’t help but think how can the 12-14 mm nut need more Torque than the 22/27 mm size ( 72 FT/ lb spec) of the the Rear axle nut? Ok, I can sleep/ride at peace with my 40 ft/ lb front torque and 50 ft/lb torque. Even at 50, I just felt like it was going to start stripping.

My friend who was helping me; has a monster bike, Suzuki Hayabusa, and he said:

“Man, I set my Hayabusa rear at 45 FT/ Lb. There’s no way the Nc700 needs 80. Trust me, you’ll be fine”.

I’m just super particular, so he was calling me crazy to try to go up to 80.

Other than that, the bike drives so smooth with new chain/ sprockets. Since the bike was new2me, i’m hoping I can get atleast 15K-20K out of this chain instead of 8K like my old.
 

Hondafan

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I have 8000 miles on my bike. 2015 NC700 Manual.

Chain seems like in decent condition. I know there have been from other issues with stock chain. But the alignment indicator is in the “red” zone. I also know some Alignment indicators are off. I ride hard. both sprockets seemed fine.

Am I due for a new chain? Looking at DID VX3 Kit from SprocketCenter.com
I have had good luck with The Sprocket Center. Sprockets and chain are $127. That is for a rubber damped front sprocket, and VX3 chain and steel rear. Pretty darn good. The front sprocket is symmetrical on the NC, so you can flip it over about 10K and get better chain life.
 

Janus

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"Regular cleaning" = Wiping with a soft rag/shop towel and using a toothbrush to remove rust on the sides of the links (not inside them).

But to not be snarky, I do get it - a lot of people brush the hell out of them, use wire brushes, solvent that erodes the o-rings, etc. Often, leaving something alone even if it is slightly dirty, is MUCH better than doing the wrong thing to it.

I bought it used, and it was in so-so shape to begin with. It's a wear item and needs to be replaced at some point.
I wrecked a chain by using one of those grunge brushes with too much enthusiasm. I don't really use it anymore except in the winter when the chain gets really... grungy
 

Skinnymoss

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Nice, you got a full shot of the side of the bike?

Also where in Boston are you? You don't see a lot of NC's around here.
I’m in south shore, near Gillette stadium.
I would love to ride sometime w you. This is the front/side shot I’m going for a golden black look
 

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fleetingyouth

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Nice I'm right in south Boston. We should def. meet up sometime hopefully this summer things will improve enough that there are some fun group rides.
 

halfSpinDoctor

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I rode a few times over the winter, so the chain had superficial rust and needed to be cleaned. One time in particular had a lot of salt residue on the roads, but I had to go out to pick up a new battery from the store for one of our cars.

I just soaked the chain in WD40 (I'd prefer kerosene, but I didn't have any handy) and used a blue shop cloth. It seems like just letting the WD40 penetrate and dissolve the rust, then wiping it away, gets about 90% of the rust off as long as it is superficial. I did a little touch up work with a soft bristle toothbrush, but only on the faces of the plates.

I decided that seeing a few slight spots of rust on the chain and sprocket teeth was better than brushing the hell out of my brand new chain and shortening its life.
 
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