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Need Help Clutch switch failure

jspivy

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Haven't ridden much the past couple years but the last thing I did was install adjustable levers. It would appear the clutch lever hits the switch wrong and bent the plunger instead of shoving it in. So now when I pull in the clutch, the bike won't start. Replaced the switch and have the same issue. Removed the lever and shoved the plunger in manually and there's no continuity across the contacts so the new switch is bad (also damaged plunger since it's no longer straight). So I need a new switch and need to swap the levers back to oem (or better made adjustable levers). I'm open to suggestions on the levers.

But then I shorted the contacts on the switch and the bike still won't start when in gear (wrapped a cord around the clutch lever to keep it pulled back). So it appears I have two issues. I looked in the manual and all I saw was the switch at the handle bars. Didn't find what I needed by searching the forum either. Opened the turn signal housing and saw the wires run down past the triple tree to ... Somewhere. Before I tear into the bike with no clear destination, does anyone know where the other end of those wires are so I can ensure they're not corroded or otherwise damaged?
 

670cc

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But then I shorted the contacts on the switch and the bike still won't start when in gear (wrapped a cord around the clutch lever to keep it pulled back).

First of all, what year and model motorcycle are we talking about? Second, when you did the trial start in gear with the clutch switch contacts shorted, what was the position of the sidestand?

On my 2012 manual transmission NC700X, the wires from the left handlebar go to a connector along the frame under the front left fairing. The connector is difficult to reach.
 

jspivy

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First of all, what year and model motorcycle are we talking about? Second, when you did the trial start in gear with the clutch switch contacts shorted, what was the position of the sidestand?

On my 2012 manual transmission NC700X, the wires from the left handlebar go to a connector along the frame under the front left fairing. The connector is difficult to reach.
Thanks. I guess I forgot how the clutch & kickstand switches interact. Tried again with the kickstand up and it fires up with the switch shorted. So it's just the switch which is an easy replacement. Unfortunately it's been too long since i bought it an I can't return it as defective (didn't work from day 1). At least it's not an expensive part but I need better adjustable levers since I think they're part of the problem.

Not that it matters now... 2012 nc700x.
 

670cc

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Glad you are on your way to success. I have cheap aftermarket levers on my ‘12 NC and never had any problems with the switches. I wish I could recommend the specific brand but I’ve had them for probably 8 years and forgot the details. I’m pretty sure they were purchased on eBay.
 

jspivy

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Glad you are on your way to success. I have cheap aftermarket levers on my ‘12 NC and never had any problems with the switches. I wish I could recommend the specific brand but I’ve had them for probably 8 years and forgot the details. I’m pretty sure they were purchased on eBay.
Thanks but I have one on order. I got mine from Amazon and they fit well (did have an issue and they sent replacement parts). I could probably modify the point where it hits the switch but I just don't feel like it now. What I ordered today is from Cycle Gear and will be delivered to the local store (free shipping). They don't have oem parts so the switch is on the way from RevZilla. If the lever doesn't work, I'll have a store to go complain to and insist on a refund (or swap for another one they sell). Assuming I like it, I may order the matching brake lever.
 

jspivy

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New switch arrived today and now I'm confused.
Part # 35330-413-003

Tested with a meter is there's continuity between the pins. Push the plunger in and it's an open. Is this right?

I thought (OK, assumed...) pulling the clutch lever would push the plunger in creating continuity which is backwards of the new switch. Looking at the oem lever, I'm thinking my original assumption was wrong and I need to install the switch I have.

So, with the plunger extended, the pins should be shorted. With the plunger in, it should break the circuit. Is this correct? If so I'll install it tomorrow.
 

jspivy

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Installed the switch and it works so I had it backwards in my head. All is working on the bike now and I had to take it for a short 20 mile ride.
 

jspivy

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Installed the switch and it works so I had it backwards in my head. All is working on the bike now and I had to take it for a short 20 mile ride.
Maybe not. Got on the bike to ride to work this morning and it didn't start. Put the bike in N and it fired up so the switch lasted exactly one night...

I thought I bent the plunger when installing the adjustable levers but now I'm wondering if there's something more going on. I need to pull the lever and look at the switch.
 

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Maybe not. Got on the bike to ride to work this morning and it didn't start. Put the bike in N and it fired up so the switch lasted exactly one night...
So took a few minutes at lunch with a multimeter... If the clutch lever is set to the closest position, it doesn't activate the switch when pulled to the bar (non-oem grips for a BMW which are slightly thicker). One click out and the switch works fine. So I'll leave it there since the other option would be trimming the switch plunger which I'm not excited about.
 
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