Considering buying one - need advice

danix

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FIrst off, not a troll, so don't go there. :)

Didn't know much about these bikes but have read and learned a lot in the last week.
For a few reasons, I am thinking of getting one. There's a local one that looks good, and I got to ride it today.
Riding history: just sold my Vespa GTS300, previous bikes are BMW K75s and R1200RTP, and a sweet Honda Hawk GT (any hawklisters here?)
I've read that the newer NC750x have some improvements, but at 2x the cost, doesn't seem worth it.

So, the bike I am looking at.
2016 NC700X DCT ABS, 11k miles. Had new tires at 8k, radiator was replaced due to road debris (now has a shield over it). 1 owner, all service done.
Farkles include rear case, engine guards, hand guards, windshield and some other stuff.

Riding impressions:
I specifically want the ABS, specifically didn't want the DCT, but they come as a pair.
Got on the bike, and honestly the hardest part about DCT is not having a clutch lever. It just feels weird.
Once you get going, it's really fine. No different than my daughter's Audi with a DSG gearbox. Would I prefer a manual? In both cases, yes.
Position, weight, handling all good. A bit soft/squishy but it's a commuter bike and I know that can be improved.

Here's what bugs me. The engine feels lumpy. At low rpm, it feels somewhat unbalanced, like a Subaru or Porsche boxer engine that's out of tune.
Upon accelerating, it smooths out, and in sport mode it felt OK, but it just somehow felt... agricultural.

So my question: is this typical? Or, is the bike perhaps out of tune, especially since it's been sitting since February?
I've read not to expect typical Honda (or other) revviness, but this seems like more than that.

Other than the lumpiness and a dead battery, bike seems OK and a decent deal at around $5k? Or should I push for lower to get this set up right?

Oh, the parking brake was weird but kinda cool, I can see where that would be useful.

Thanks!
 
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670cc

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With a twisted crankshaft and 270 degree firing interval, Honda intentionally made the engine lumpy. As you said, it smooths out at higher RPM. I have owned more than one NC700X, and ridden many others, and I can say the degree of “lumpyness” varies a little bit from one bike example to the next.

I generally consider 2000 RPM to be the lowest smooth operating RPM for the engine with my manual transmission version. The DCT version will keep the engine above 2000 automatically.
 

danix

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Thanks for the reply. Hmm, I didn't get a good look at the tach, but by ear I'd say it was well below 2000rpm. I guess a tuneup couldn't hurt if it's been sitting (or an italian tuneup).
 

Janus

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The NC does have a kind of tractor-factor to it's engine. I've noticed the throbbing but never found the engine to be buzzy.

I love the character of the Honda. I have never thought it was sexy or brawny. I never wanted it to scream down the road. It's the most practical motorcycle I've ever sat on. My vision is at the same height as an SUV but I've never found the bike to be top heavy. Maybe a touch at low speed with a pillion and luggage for a week out of town.... But even then, real easy.

The NC-X series dresses up as an ADV bike, but it isn't. It's a great road bike that will get you along gravel roads just fine. I have my opinions on ADV, but I understand why Honda won't come right out and say it. The NC platform is a commuter's dream.

Fun, easy, great gas mileage, practical, and safe. Within the design focus, the NC700 has been a great bike over the 48k miles I've had it.
 

Doc True

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That price isn't bad if it's in good shape. You might try to get it cheaper. Anything less than asking will be a win
 

Jwalt

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With all those farkles if the bike is clean that's a very good deal in California. They just cost more here. I've seen 2013-14's in the LA and San Diego areas go 5k with about that much swag on the bike and 20k mi.

I just bought my bike back in Oct. of last year and I shopped about a month to get a 2013 with a yoshimura can and motech crash bars (otherwise stock), 3k mi on it for 4,700. From a dealer, so 5k after "prep fees" and minor bs.
 

danix

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There's actually 5 bikes around here:
2013 2200mi $4800
2015 12k $4800
2016 13k $6000
2015 21k $4900

The ask on the bike I'm looking at is higher, but I'll see where it ends up and then decide. Thanks!
 

dduelin

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A low frequency throb at lower rpms is part of the character of the engine. It's normal but it does bother some owners. Many owners report it worst at about 45-55 mph in 6th. It didn't bother me during my ownership of a manual and a DCT version. I've had other motorcycles with similar low frequency vibrations so that might predispose me to accept it w/o issue.

One thing to consider is that on the demo ride you may have had the bike in D where the computer upshifts at the lowest possible rpm - about 2000 to 2500 rpm under moderate throttle openings. The S or Sport mode pushes the shift points up a few hundred rpm or more depending on throttle opening and of course placing the transmission in Manual allows you to hold a gear at will and rev the engine up to the rev limiter without it upshifting.
 

Jt105

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If you want a smoother engine, test ride a NC750X. Honda put an extra balancer inside the engine to smooth things out a bit.
Personally, I enjoy the ‘tractor’ engine feel of the 700. It’s quite different than my other motorcycle that is ‘smooth’ and makes the riding experience different between the two bikes.

JT
 

danix

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Welp, I bought it. I definitely tested it in D mode (hate it) and the three sport modes. Still trying to figure out which one I like best.
Battery was marginal so it's sitting on a charger, we'll see if it survives with regular use.

Someone said: The DCT version will keep the engine above 2000 automatically.
Is that at idle? Because my idle is 1000rpm or less.
Photos as soon as I clean it up. :)
 

76Hawke

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I think idle is 1200+/_ 100.
I believe what was being referenced was the feel of the engine with more of a load than idle, that it didn't quite "smooth out" until a minimum of 2000rpm
 

76Hawke

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Welp, I bought it. I definitely tested it in D mode (hate it) and the three sport modes. Still trying to figure out which one I like best.
Battery was marginal so it's sitting on a charger, we'll see if it survives with regular use.

Someone said: The DCT version will keep the engine above 2000 automatically.
Is that at idle? Because my idle is 1000rpm or less.
Photos as soon as I clean it up. :)
And congratulations!
 

670cc

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Thanks for the reply. Hmm, I didn't get a good look at the tach, but by ear I'd say it was well below 2000rpm. I guess a tuneup couldn't hurt if it's been sitting (or an italian tuneup).
I’m not sure what a “tuneup“ entails on a fuel injected engine. According to NGK, the spark plug type used on the NC is good for perhaps 70,000 miles. Air filter changes are dependent on air quality. Honda suggests 12,000 miles, but I get 25,000 miles on a filter, no problem. A bike sitting a long time could possbly develope a fuel injector issue.
 

Jt105

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Welp, I bought it. I definitely tested it in D mode (hate it) and the three sport modes. Still trying to figure out which one I like best.
Battery was marginal so it's sitting on a charger, we'll see if it survives with regular use.

Someone said: The DCT version will keep the engine above 2000 automatically.
Is that at idle? Because my idle is 1000rpm or less.
Photos as soon as I clean it up. :)
Congratulations!

While riding, the DCT will downshift to keep the rpm in a usable range. Generally above 2000 rpm.

JT
 

dduelin

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Congratulations on the new bike.

In S or D I used to override the DCT's gear selection manually for the times when I needed to accelerate gently and the engine under the new load of acceleration or the load of starting up a hill would cause it throb a little. Thumb down a gear or two to allow the bike to accelerate from 2600 or 3000 instead of a 2000 or 2200 cruise rpm. If the throttle is opened wide when cruising along it will downshift 1 or 2 gears but not necessarily at gently opened throttle. It would be the same as riding a manual bike, you help out the engine by speeding it up where it generates more thrust.
 

670cc

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Welp, I bought it. I definitely tested it in D mode (hate it) and the three sport modes. Still trying to figure out which one I like best.
Battery was marginal so it's sitting on a charger, we'll see if it survives with regular use.

Someone said: The DCT version will keep the engine above 2000 automatically.
Is that at idle? Because my idle is 1000rpm or less.
Photos as soon as I clean it up. :)
I made the comment about 2000 RPM. Yes, the idle is around 1100, if I recall correctly. What I meant was at riding speeds, D mode will upshift early, but during acceleration it keeps the RPM above 2000. It won’t shift up so early that RPM would generally fall below 2000, which would “lug” the engine.
 

danix

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Installed farkels:
  • Madstad Windshield
  • Givi 57l trunk and mount, plus light kit
  • Cortech tank bag
  • Airhawk Seat pad
  • Givi engine guard
  • Center stand
  • Radiator guard

Charged the battery, cleaned her up, good to go.
Next step, upgrading the horn and headlight.
 

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76Hawke

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Installed farkels:
  • Madstad Windshield
  • Givi 57l trunk and mount, plus light kit
  • Cortech tank bag
  • Airhawk Seat pad
  • Givi engine guard
  • Center stand
  • Radiator guard

Charged the battery, cleaned her up, good to go.
Next step, upgrading the horn and headlight.
Thats a nice list of awesome upgrades, congrats
 
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