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Cush Drive

rippin209

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Has anyone replaced the cush drive rubbers on their NC700X? And if so what with?
 
Why wouldn't you just replace worn rubbers with new Honda parts designed for the NC?
I probably will, mostly because what little aftermarket I'm finding is the same or close to the same price. Some times there are alternatives that perform better or last longer or at least cost less, thought I would ask and see if someone found something else they were happy with
 
What would be the result of using urethane rather than rubber in the cush drive? Would it be too stiff probably? Not that anyone makes them, but wondering.

I was curious about that. I recently saw a video on making your own urethane mounts, I'm curious how that would work out.
 
Rubber is synthetic, with different types for different applications. That said, since every bike with a chain or belt has one and it isn't really something you see as a premium part, I doubt it matters too much
 
Urethane doesn't flex. No cushion or shocks absorption when you shift gears or twist it hard. Hard on chain and sprocket combo. This is the reason why I replaced all my 76 Trans Am rubber moog suspension parts with rubber again instead of with one of the Urethane kits. They make it a very rough ride due to no flex. Corners better but the ride is awful.

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FWIW, the Moriwaki MH250 (CRF250 engine in a 125GP chassis) uses harder cush drive rubbers than the RS125 2T (wheels are the same). The torque spikes in the 4T single are larger than the 2T and the softer rubbers don't hold up. Too hard and they are harsh, too soft and they add too much slack to the drive.
 
Sometimes, looking for non-factory parts as an improvement can be a futile exercise. :-(
That looks to be the case unfortunately. At $80 dollars I should have replaced mine 5-10k miles ago. So I've got slop that I at first thought was a bearing going bad, it's just my cush rubbers are that worn down.
 
An OEM set is under $40 on line (without shipping).

FWIW, unless I was doing something very out of the ordinary with the bike, I would get the OEM ones.
Thanks everywhere I looked they are sold individually for $13-$14 X 5 =$70 or so. Didn't seam to matter what brand or where from so thanks
 
I'm disappointed to hear that they go bad so quickly... Not at all typical of Honda...
 
Resurrecting this thread as I’m going to install new Cush drive (OEM parts) in the next week or so. Like a dumb*** I didn’t do it when I changed the sprockets and chain a few weeks ago.

Any magic in swapping the rubber out? This is my first time doing this so wanted to see if there was anything non-obvious I should be aware of (FYI - I’m fine with removal of wheel, caliper, etc.).

Thanks.


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Resurrecting this thread as I’m going to install new Cush drive (OEM parts) in the next week or so. Like a dumb*** I didn’t do it when I changed the sprockets and chain a few weeks ago.

Any magic in swapping the rubber out? This is my first time doing this so wanted to see if there was anything non-obvious I should be aware of (FYI - I’m fine with removal of wheel, caliper, etc.).

Thanks.


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I did mine about a month ago. This sounds like a joke, but don't drop the sprocket carrier. My sprocket carrier very loose when I removed the tire. I dont know why the rubber was so bad. They were fine when i put the new tire on 10,000 miles earlier. With the carrier removed you can check all three bearings.

The new rubber can only go in one way so that shouldn't be an issue.
I used a rubber mallet when placing the sprocket carrier back on. Tapping only on the bolts and not the sprocket. (Again, stating the obvious.)

Honestly, putting the wheel back on is the hardest part. Wait. That was the second hardest. The hardest part was paying for the parts. :)
 
Resurrecting this thread as I’m going to install new Cush drive (OEM parts) in the next week or so. Like a dumb*** I didn’t do it when I changed the sprockets and chain a few weeks ago.

Any magic in swapping the rubber out? This is my first time doing this so wanted to see if there was anything non-obvious I should be aware of (FYI - I’m fine with removal of wheel, caliper, etc.).

Thanks.


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Should be easy for you then.
Cheers,
Guy

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Well that was simple. Installed the Cush drive today - very straightforward as everyone said

Did, however, find that what I believe is the radiator overflow tube not connected (item 22 on the Babbitt’s diagram). After my dealer-performed 16K service I noticed some “slosh” on the engine and crash bars. Initially I thought maybe just a bit of slop after the service - annoyed me at $75 per hour labor.

Today I notice the “slop” again and got out the flashlight and started looking around and noticed the unconnected hose. Took 20 minutes to finegal the hose onto metal nipple, and the get the spring clamp on.

That’ll be my last trip to the dealer - absent some major issue I can’t figure out. $75/hr for that level of quality.


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Spending large amounts of money at one of two dealers within 40 miles of me and not getting good results is why I now own a lift and some specialized tools. Do all my maintenance now. Learned on my MC forumsso far I have done forks, chains & sprockets, valves, coolant change out, clutch/brake fluid change out, oil, tires, brake pads, modifications on luggage, wiring, suspension upgrade front and back, add farkles, etc.

Glad it was simple for you. Notice any difference now thst it is done?
Well that was simple. Installed the Cush drive today - very straightforward as everyone said

Did, however, find that what I believe is the radiator overflow tube not connected (item 22 on the Babbitt’s diagram). After my dealer-performed 16K service I noticed some “slosh” on the engine and crash bars. Initially I thought maybe just a bit of slop after the service - annoyed me at $75 per hour labor.

Today I notice the “slop” again and got out the flashlight and started looking around and noticed the unconnected hose. Took 20 minutes to finegal the hose onto metal nipple, and the get the spring clamp on.

That’ll be my last trip to the dealer - absent some major issue I can’t figure out. $75/hr for that level of quality.


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The original Cush wasn’t very worn, but I do notice a bit more responsiveness especially in the higher gears when I really hit the throttle (in manual mode).


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