DCT Clutch Calibration

[JDE]

Thanks to DCTFAN and the OP for all the actual information given in this thread.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[DCTFAN]

One of the best "Tips and Tricks" thread to come along here.
I agree with 99% of what smiller posted on this thread.
Most peeps just post, but this was carefully thought out and researched.
(including CYA statements)

There is not much evidence to make this an Honda endorsed procedure,
but then the dealers' mechs don't have any secret formulae either.

When to do the 'Clutch initialize' procedure:
1. if your tranny creeps at a stop
1. when the tranny hold on to gears longer than a second
1. when you've changed oil
1. when you move the location of the bike to different altitude
1. a change of season ie. temperature
the list can go on, but in summary:
you should run the procedure, if anything that may affect or change the
oil environment inside the engine has occured and will remain for a while.


My 2¢
What have you got to loose?
Absent a credible report, that this procedure messed up your DCT
I am going to keep my regimen of reset after every oil change if
I find that the DCT behaves differently.


Disclaimer: YMMV

 

[supertux1]

My $0.02:

Every clutch in every motorcycle has different friction zone engagement terms and I'm guessing the DCT has some kind of analog variance in its clutch packs that needs to be accounted for in programming that somehow measures it.

According to the service manual, the oil and pressure in the DCT clutches is controlled by electrical solenoid valves. These are either on or off, ( or forward or reversed ) for a set period of time and this influences the amount of grip each clutch has.

I'm betting all that calibration does is monitor the CKP sensor for rotation while varying the amount of time the solenoid valves open and close for, to detect what precise duration of electrical signals make the clutch fully slip vs fully engage
with the oil that's in the system at whatever it's hot weight is (30 or 40.)

As it is a mechanical system subject to wear, heat cycles, warping etc..., I suspect that over time it will start to slip as any clutch will and thus re-learning is required.

If it's creeping at a stop, this is the opposite problem - check for any change in your idle speed first, stuck throttle, cable etc...

The problem is it's impossible to detect a malfunctioning clutch when you can't 'feel' the friction zone in a system like this, so it's hard to tell when this procedure is necessary.

I would most definitely do it if changing the grade (or maybe even brand) of oil, and if you want to try synthetic, but I'm guessing if you just use the same oil as the manufacturer/dealer all the time you wouldn't really have to do it, unless you got some batch that was way out of spec. (Edit: and even then if it's influencing your clutch, why tempt fate, just dump it.)

 

[BerndM]

I tried this yesterday on my 2013 DCT and nothing happened.
I followed the instructions to the letter (I think) 3 times with absolutely nothing happening.
What is this "MIL" (engine icon) being referred to? I have never seen such a thing on my display.
When I turned on the ignition switch while holding down the "D" switch, there were no changes in the display.
I tried it 3 times holding the "D" various lengths of time, up to 30 seconds and nada.

 

[DCTFAN]

I tried this yesterday on my 2013 DCT and nothing happened.
I followed the instructions to the letter (I think) 3 times with absolutely nothing happening.
What is this "MIL" (engine icon) being referred to? I have never seen such a thing on my display.
When I turned on the ignition switch while holding down the "D" switch, there were no changes in the display.
I tried it 3 times holding the "D" various lengths of time, up to 30 seconds and nada.

A good thing, not to see the MIL except in this procedure.
Engine warmed up?

 

[smiller]

I tried this yesterday on my 2013 DCT and nothing happened.
I followed the instructions to the letter (I think) 3 times with absolutely nothing happening.
What is this "MIL" (engine icon) being referred to? I have never seen such a thing on my display.
When I turned on the ignition switch while holding down the "D" switch, there were no changes in the display.
I tried it 3 times holding the "D" various lengths of time, up to 30 seconds and nada.

The engine icon (or 'Malfunction Indicator Lamp' (MIL) as it is generically called in the auto industry and also in the NC700X owners manual) always comes on as part of the lamp check when you first turn on the ignition, and then disappears after a few seconds. This is also all it does when entering the clutch learn routine, the instructions are just saying to hold the D button until the MIL lamp goes out as it normally does. But otherwise the MIL lamp behaves the same way it does any time you first turn on the ignition, so don't look for any special behavior. You will not see anything special in the display until after you enter the D-D-N-D-N sequence, after which the gear selector outline box and the 'D' and 'S' indicators will come on.

 

[BerndM]

AH OK.
I never even looked at the little "idiot lites" on top.
I was looking for something on the main display.
Thanks, I will try it again when the bike is warmed up next time.

 

[DCTFAN]

AH OK.
I never even looked at the little "idiot lites" on top.
I was looking for something on the main display.
Thanks, I will try it again when the bike is warmed up next time.

What did you just call me?

 

[BerndM]

Hahahahaha
Don't worry, I'M the one who didn't see it, so I guess they are appropriately named.

 

[bvogel7475]

Hoping someone sees this post to an old thread. Tried this procedure for my 2015 NC700 DCT and can’t get any feedback from bike despite getting the engine to full operating temp by running engine for 15 minutes, including riding around the block a few times. I know the display of the 2015 is different from the 2012. Perhaps the process is different as well? When the bike is colder, ie only been warmed up for about 5 minutes, it bucks quite a bit while accelerating and decelerating at low speeds. Bike has 8k miles and haven’t seen any improvement with this issue over life of bike and 3 oil changes.

 

[dduelin]

Hoping someone sees this post to an old thread. Tried this procedure for my 2015 NC700 DCT and can’t get any feedback from bike despite getting the engine to full operating temp by running engine for 15 minutes, including riding around the block a few times. I know the display of the 2015 is different from the 2012. Perhaps the process is different as well? When the bike is colder, ie only been warmed up for about 5 minutes, it bucks quite a bit while accelerating and decelerating at low speeds. Bike has 8k miles and haven’t seen any improvement with this issue over life of bike and 3 oil changes.

Do you mean that you cannot get the bike to enter into the calibration mode with the appropriate blinking or blank display? When I did this to my 2015 it took 3 or 4 attempts to get it done. Try slowing down and make each button push slow and deliberate. The procedure is the same for 2012s - I have a service manual for 2012-2015 models.

 

[ST13Fred]

I run 10W-30 (Mobil or Castrol) full synthetic in all my small engines.
My DCT, however, w/all its' complication is the one vehicle I strictly use only the specific advised Honda oil. End of story.
I would not be surprised if one went to Honda w/a drivability issue and you tell them you're running Honda SYNTHETIC oil, they may blame that as the problem........just sayin.