• A few people have been scammed on the site, Only use paypal to pay for items for sale by other members. If they will not use paypal, its likely a scam NEVER SEND E-TRANSFERS OF ANY KIND.

DCT Fault. Argh!

I've managed to muck up the whole process, but the problem (awaiting reassembly as proof) is the loose Shifter Pin. When loose, it allows the Shifter Drum Center to move right off it's locating pin (Roller, Shift Drum Center Dowel).

Part of the confusion is differences in terminology between the SM and Parts Diagrams. Suffice to say, the loose pin/bolt appears to be the cause of the shifting problems.

If everything had worked as I hoped, I could be putting things back together right now, but that's another story.
 
Lootzyan, your observation is accurate. I missed the section on the gear shift linkage and just plunged into the deep end. Managed to loose a small piece into the sump in the bargain. Tomorrow I'll pull the oil pan and recover the Plunger, then put it all back together. (Sproooiiiing!)

I will suggest, based on this past two weeks of grief, that all DCT owners should perform the procedures in Chapter 12, DCT, Gearshift Linkage to check the tightness of that bolt.

Tips:
Keep track of the cover bolts. Of the 16, one is shorter than the others.
Cover the openings to the sump in the right side cavity. (Small parts have a way finding their way in there. Sproooiiinng!)
Complete disassembly isn't necessary to get to the Star and Star Bolt (Shifter Drum Center and Shifter Drum Center Bolt, AKA Shift Pin.)
No need to disassemble the Shift Motor Reduction Gears, the Gear Shift Arm pulls out from the right without any disassembly on the left. Just don't move anything before reassembly.
No need to pull the clutch package, just pull it right _just_enough_ to let the left (rear) bolt on the Drum Shifter Guide Plate come free.
Don't loose any of the small bits from the Drum Shifter.
 
Last edited:
One more tip: If ya perform this service while bike is on the side stand, no need to drain the oil. Only lost a couple pints or less of my fresh oil. (Side Note: on my way out to drain the oil so I can pull the oil pan and retrieve the missing part. Don't do as I do, do as I say. :( )
 
Replacing the clutch on the manual transmission model, I just drained half the oil out via the drain plug, then put it back in the engine when the job was done, since I wasn’t sure where the level would be relative to the right side cover. Go to know it’s lower than I thought.
 
Good idea to visit the shop with the pin (and shop manual) in hand.

The pin has no LokTite residue so assume none applied. Just under torqued?

I have fotos but haven’t figured out how to attach to this site.
 
Nothing earth shaking in my photos anyway.

I can access this site on the I-Phone but can't find an Icon or whatever to load fotos from the phone to the site. I know there is a way.
 
Last edited:
AAaaaarrrrrgh! (A recurring theme.) Got the shift mechanism all back together after retrieving the piece from the oil pan. Now, can't get the clutch pack to reseat. Gonna have to read a couple more chapters.

Visited the Harley/Honda shop. They were not interested. Not surprised here.

Any tips on reassembling the clutch pack? Only hint in the manual is, Don't disassemble the clutch pack. <snark>
 
It is a scissor gear. The ST1100 has similar on the alternator. It's an anti-noise/vibration device.

I had the bolt in to hold the gear teeth in position, had the clutch pulled just to the right enough to left the left bolt on the shifter mechanism escape. All gear teeth (I thoiught) remained engaged. Attempte to push the cutch pack back into place but the last 1/4 " wouldn't go. Gotta remove it all and realign everything. Of course, I had already pulled the bolt holding the primary gear teeth the scissor gear is untensioned too. :(

When it rains, it pours. Speaking of pouring, they had 2" hail at Sturgis yesterday, where I was headed when this all started, so maybe some blessings. ;)
 
When I initially pulled the clutch package slightly right, the #2 Clutch Guide slipped off it's third clutch plate. Impossible to realign while the clutch package is vertical. Pulled it all the way out and spent nearly 2 hours getting everything back together. (Pages 12-69,70,71.)

After many attempts, got it reinstalled and... the #1 Clutch Guide slipped off it's third clutch plate.

Another 1/2 hour I'll never get back. Second time went more quickly.

Anyway, celebrating with a Bloody Mary before reinstalling the right side cover. (Don't forget the bead of gasket sealer. :D )

OBTW, the Kawasaki tank isn't leaking either. Two bikes, No waiting. :D
 
Last edited:
SM shows clutch pack laying horizontal and slide the guide in vertically. If the pack is vertical (as it is when installed) the clutch plates will slide out of alignment before you can get the guide in. Trust me on this one. :D

Just did a test ride, shifts up and down in all three modes, shifts from D to S to D. Shifts to M but have to stop and go to neutral to get back to D. I have't tried reading any codes yet. Haven't cleared the VS Sensor code 66 yet.

I been out there 7m straight hours. About ready to quit for today.
 
Last update on this thread: My error on transition from manual to auto, ya gotta hit the AT/MT button again to go back to AT. I was hitting the D button.

Cleared all codes, rode to the grocery and back this morning. All functions operate as nominal. This problem is resolved. Much thanks to all the folks who here who have contributed their knowledge and experience.

I made the shorting tool and probes from pieces of .020 safety wire, flattened ends with a ball peen hammer on the anvil to make the ends fit the connectors. Disposable, and a lot cheaper than the official Honda tools.

With one success, new exeperience, and notes in my SM, I think I could do this fix, start to finish, in less than 6 hours. The only "part" required is a schmear of gasket sealer.

Still need to reinstall all the body parts.

Adding one more tip: Gotta come up with a way to hold the clutch pack together before sliding the pack toward the outside. I'm thinking a couple loops of safety wire behind the pack and around the front, twisted ends to secure all the bits.

And, do cover the holes in the bottom of the right side cavity. Would have save me a lot of frustration and at least a couple hours.

(Could I make a living traveling around the country checking folks' shifter pins? :) )
 
Found at Service Honda, this shift pin has been in use since 1985, many many models over the years. You'd think they would know how to do it right by now. :(
 
Well, it's not like it's a common failure. In six years of hanging around NC forums I can count on my hands, ooops, hand, the number of failures attributed to the shift pin.

We have no knowledge to speak of on how the vehicles were ridden and maintained, oil choice and change interval, etc..

In this forum there have been more 30,000 mile clutch jobs than shift pin failures. Perspective.
 
dduelin said:
In this forum there have been more 30,000 mile clutch jobs than shift pin failures. Perspective.
Click to expand...

The manual clutch is a wear item, and it’s early demise can be brought on by the user. A loose or broken shifter pin in an automatic transmission is more likely a design or manufacturing defect.
 
Last edited:
Manufacturing defect, not enough thread locker. Maybe millions of vehicles have this piece. Happens often enough that someone in Anaheim knew enough to suggest checking it. :(
 
If the part has been in use since 1985 in likely hundreds of thousands (millions??) of Honda manual transmissions and since 2012 in more thousands of DCT transmissions, do you consider a handful of undocumented pin failures more a manufacturing defect or a design defect?

What would be an acceptable failure rate?

Shifting gears I'm glad George was able to diagnose and fix the problem and in so doing build upon a body of knowledge here. I was beginning to wonder about the outcome.
 
I wondered myself, Dave, after dropping parts into the sump. :D

I'm blaming assembly line failure, no thread locker apparent. Have to wonder about the _broken_ pins, tho. Were those on DCT bikes? Or standard shift? Go to ServiceHonda.com, on parts search enter the the number, then click Where Used.

I'm thinking the only thing which makes the DCT unique is the shift motor, clutch package, and oil pump/filter. Everything on the mechanical side appears to be pretty standard stuff including the shift pin.

List of bikes which use the pin include many dirt bikes.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

jknight611
Question DCT wonderings
Replies
10
Views
815
750dct
7
W
DCT hiccup
Replies
8
Views
1K
the Ferret
the Ferret
T
DCT failure - gear indicator flashing, and can only jump between Neutral and 2nd (kinda)
Replies
14
Views
2K
Deleted member 1183
D
V
2021 NC750x clutch slipping
Replies
8
Views
885
jeremyr62
J
W
Nc750x fault code p2765.. transmission fault. help needed
Replies
12
Views
1K
wolfswater
W
Back
Top