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DCT initialize learning process FAILED.

ggtod

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DCT initialize learning process FAILED **SOLVED**

I have '15 CTX DCT that couldn't shift into D (bought the thing that way)
After many attempts to troubleshoot the problem, I visit local Honda dealer, they as well tested the error 84-1 and 86-1 faulty PCM (computer)
I now installed a new (used) ECU and the kinda-a-reset of the DCT is necessary. Followed the process in the manual, and the D-D-N-D-N pattern failed. Have the 2sec "-" blinking and after I start the bike it doesn't complete it all the way - have the 0.5sec flashing and D+S stays ON and when riding the bike shift rough and when on idle still want to move (rpm arround 1000)
Both PGM-FI and DCT have no stored errors, even tried to simulate random error and successfully erase it after, still the DDNDN fail.
Oil is exactly 3.4L new, bought it from the dealer. Tried adding 100,200ml nothing.
Battery is brand new. Shall I try to jump it with additional one?
I have read about issues with the shift pin in the DCT getting loosed, have the clutch side cover off and that bolt is tight, everything else looks normal.
Right after the start I could feel it tries to do something, rpm drops a bit and every attempt is kinda different. Once it fail almost immediately after starting the engine, another time it blinks "-" 2sec pattern for like a minute before it fail. Also after few attempts I try to ride it and its different on how rough it change the gears and amount of power the rear wheel get on idle- once you can hold it , another you need to brake just a little and the worse its stall the engine immediately after you press D.
Had the bike on side stand, straight up, on either side, shaked rolled ....
Oh and also to mention right after I've installed the new PCM i had all the controlls D/S, AT/MT and the + and - working as normal.
This thing is really bugging me after a month of denying the need of a new PCM for the initial shifting problem and the very expensive 2nd hand one (gotta have it with the HISS , ignition lock and the keys) and now that clutch that doesn't want to calibrate for no apparent reason..
 

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This might be 'superstition' but you might try this before the Clutch Learning procedure, it's supposed to reset the ECU:

"1 - Disconnect battery (negative, earth side) and leave disconnected for 30mins (it isn't definite that it needs to be that long, but that is what the original poster said, and it won't hurt)
2 - turn ignition on for 30sec then off (again not definite if this is necessary but won't hurt)
3 - Reconnect battery.
4 - Start engine WITHOUT using any throttle, and DON'T TOUCH the throttle at all while it's running.
5 - Allow to idle and warm up until the fan starts, typically 15mins.
6 - Stop engine using the kill switch
7 - switch off ignition.

That's it, you can now ride again. Maybe try it and let us know if it does anything."
 
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Is the ECU the correct one for a 15 year bike? Later years require a different throttle application.

I've got the same serial number ECU. I first went for a route with an US ecu (price was the primary reason) with different last digits and failed miserably- bike didn't start. US bikes doesn't have HISS system and the ecu need another power feed on the grey plug, which I never get the right pin, although the are only 2 pins free, it must be one of them. Then got an European 2nd hand with hiss,keys, tank cap etc. for 4 times the price vs. US one.

This might be 'superstition' but you might try this before the Clutch Learning procedure, it's supposed to reset the ECU:

"1 - Disconnect battery (negative, earth side) and leave disconnected for 30mins (it isn't definite that it needs to be that long, but that is what the original poster said, and it won't hurt)
2 - turn ignition on for 30sec then off (again not definite if this is necessary but won't hurt)
3 - Reconnect battery.
4 - Start engine WITHOUT using any throttle, and DON'T TOUCH the throttle at all while it's running.
5 - Allow to idle and warm up until the fan starts, typically 15mins.
6 - Stop engine using the kill switch
7 - switch off ignition.

That's it, you can now ride again. Maybe try it and let us know if it does anything."

Sure I did reset the Ecu, even read here in the forum for something called 'limp mode' when ecu give some safe a/f setting usually very rich, got the smell and the black smoke.



BUT anyway
It's solved guys! I was so careful when trying to calibrate the thing, warming the engine was only on idle, didn't want to ride the bike with this rough changing gears. Only some 100m on first and second. After 3 days double checking everything I had enough and went for a shakedown of all of the gears and surprise surprise when I finally stopped the bike didn't want to move on idle as before. Tried the DDNDN again and it worked the first time! My guess is the bike sitting for a months now and maybe the motor that change the gears was struggling to go end-to-end (my guess of the calibration process happening inside)
Here it is. Ignore the cheap universal headlight. The first thing on the list after I have registration complete.

Many thanks to all involved

IMG_0547.jpgIMG_0548.jpgIMG_0551.jpgIMG_0554.jpg
 
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