... Mine had such a clean snap that nothing looked out of place without looking carefully at the picture in the service manual and comparing it to the parts in your hand...
Just a larger fillet radius at the fracture point it would be enough to strengthen the pin against breaking.
Just put another 62 miles with the new shift motor and the ride went smoothly. That puts me at 134 ish miles in total with the new motor and not a single hiccup. I'll wait until 250 miles until I can say with confidence that replacing the shift motor fixed the issue.
Is the shift motor located in a place where it’s temperature can be easily measured by the side of the road?Just out of curiosity, after about 40 min to an hour, stop and see how hot the new shift motor is. I am curious to know if it is getting as hot as the old one was. If not, it furthers leads to the old motor failing and your problem now being fixed.
From the service manual picture that was posted it appears to be on the outside of the case, so shouldn't be terribly difficult to get to. Granted, I don't have easy access to my bike at the moment since I am at work so I can't be positive. Plus, OP stated in one of his previous posts that his old one got so hot it would instantly evaporate water splashed on it, so I took that to mean they have accessed it while alongside the road in the past.Is the shift motor located in a place where it’s temperature can be easily measured by the side of the road?
Thanks!Fingers crossed for You.
Yeah the dealer wasn't of much help but I can't blame them entirely since they did everything that Honda requires them to do as far as checking the shift motor. Even with the repeated bench testing and field testing they weren't able to get it fail. So naturally they did not think my shift motor was the problem and they wanted to move on to the next steps, which was to check for the loose/broken shift pin, and then to replace the ECU. But I sorta knew from reading @telecam's thread that replacing the ECU wouldn't solve the issue. I'm glad I didn't go that route.Good luck as you continue to test your repair!
So in hindsight, it appears that taking the motorcycle to the dealer provided little to no value in solving the problem. You apparently diagnosed and fixed the problem yourself. The dealer’s advice may have taken the process in the wrong direction and added unnecessary time and cost to the repair, if it even was repaired.
Yeah I would have to figure out how to do it. If I had to guess I'd also point to the brushes and maybe the windings. Perhaps they were repeatedly making and losing contact, making the motor work much harder which made it get too hot and eventually fail.Now you have a chance to take your replaced shift motor for torture and force it to reveal the secrets of failure. Was it overheating, opens or shorts or open shorts?
Jokes aside, it may be too early to finally blame this shift motor, but if that turns out to be the case, my main suspicion is on the brushes of this motor. Typically, with a electric motor running in one direction only, the brushes fit into the commutator and provide good contact for a very long time. In this motor, the change of direction of rotation takes place many times in a relatively short time, especially when driving in heavy traffic. The brushes and their housing must be well designed for this type of work. It may seem that Honda has not really managed to ensure long-term reliability, also taking into account many years of trouble with a similar shift motor used in ATVs.
Telecam's failed at only 6,000 miles, Helix failed at 35,000 miles, and I'm seeing threads on CTX forums where they are reporting shift motor failures at 10,000 miles, 16,000 miles and another at 25,000 miles. Saw a couple of threads on Africa Twin forums as well but can't remember the mileage. It should be noted though that the CTX700 and Africa Twin DCT models use a different part # for their shift motor.Maybe as more high mileage DCT NCs surface with shift motor problems, it may become a wise practice to proactively replace the shift motor at, say, 50,000 miles or 80,000 km.
Just out of curiosity, after about 40 min to an hour, stop and see how hot the new shift motor is. I am curious to know if it is getting as hot as the old one was. If not, it furthers leads to the old motor failing and your problem now being fixed.
Yes, the shift motor can be accessed with a 5mm hex key to remove the left side under belly fairing (just needs to be moved out of way). After my 84 mile ride last night I took a spray bottle and sprayed water on the shift motor and it was not hot enough to instantly evaporate the water. This is in contrast to my old shift motor which I sprayed water on upon taking it home from the dealer (roughly 30 miles) and it instantly evaporated the water. The old motor did not fail on me on that particular ride, but it was still excessively hot based on that test. I should have bought one of those thermal temperature gauges lol.Is the shift motor located in a place where it’s temperature can be easily measured by the side of the road?
You're welcome!Thank you for the follow up posts, 16DCT. Your well documented thread will surely help others that encounter the same problem.
So glad I was able to share my own experience and help you track down the issue and somehow limit the bleeding... My bike having gone through the same ordeal 2 years ago, it's obvious that this forum has proven more useful to diagnose the issue than Honda very own dealers/tech communications. Ride safe![Final Update *Problem solved*]: Another 91 miles on the clock which puts me at 309 miles total with the new shift motor without a single hiccup. I can now say with confidence that the issue is fixed. As expected, the Shift/Ratio Control Motor (Part: 31300-KVZ-631) was the sole problem in my particular case. The part is roughly $225 dollars on Partzilla, but I paid extra for expedited shipping. I also paid for 6 hours worth of labor costs at the dealer, and my bike was at the shop for over 2 weeks. They were unable to get the old shift motor to fail despite multiple bench tests and test riding the bike, so in theory that was a total waste of time and money. My theory for this is that they never rode it long enough to get it to the failure point (or tested the shift motor long enough on the bench).
So if you are facing similar issues as described in this thread, combined with DTC codes 24-1 and 57-1, you may have a problem with the shift motor. It's very easy to replace at home. You will need to remove the left side belly pan, the front sprocket cover, the exhaust guard, and after that it's just 3 bolts to remove the old motor and install the new one.