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DCT Motor stopped in 2 gear - What is the proper startup procedure?

jangermann

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Hi.

After winter storage I did drive 300 meters and the motor died. I was breaking in 2 gear and the motor did stop in second gear. The motor fail lamp was lit and I could hear a some click sound from the gearbox. I could not start it.
After a while I found out the the gearbox properly was trying to reach "N". While clicking I did move the bike back and forward, and then it found "N" and now I could start again. After that I made a 40km drive without problems.

I think it was a startup bug after long winter storage and old fuel in the tank.

Anyone here have Experienced the same thing?
Is there a special startup procedure that is nice to know about in this situation?
Thanks.
 
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What was the length of storage time? Did you have your battery on a charger?

From what I have been able to gather, the DCT bikes are pretty finicky with wanting a fully charged (and healthy) battery.
 
What was the length of storage time? Did you have your battery on a charger?

From what I have been able to gather, the DCT bikes are pretty finicky with wanting a fully charged (and healthy) battery.
I know this could sound like a battery problem, I am aware of this, but I don't this is the problem. The battery seems to be in perfect working order, with lots of power to turn the starter, and yes the battery has been in the charger regulary during the winter.
 
I know this could sound like a battery problem, I am aware of this, but I don't this is the problem. The battery seems to be in perfect working order, with lots of power to turn the starter, and yes the battery has been in the charger regulary during the winter.

Possibly then a super rare glitch that just happens once in a blue moon, or as you say, stale fuel which didn't ignite properly, causing an unexpected stall and catching the DCT electronics kind of "off guard". Fresh oil, or the old stuff from last season/over the winter? Not that I would imagine that having any real impact that I can see, though.

What is your mileage? everything in good working order as per manual maintenance? Valves in spec, clean air filter etc.?
 
7000Km, and had it serviced with new oil and filters before winter storage. It is a 2014 model. And it is as new and sounds perfect.
Well maybe I just should change the battery to avoid problems, it is after all two years old.
 
7000Km, and had it serviced with new oil and filters before winter storage. It is a 2014 model. And it is as new and sounds perfect.
Well maybe I just should change the battery to avoid problems, it is after all two years old.

I get about six to ten years out of batteries. Two years is nothing. Perhaps let it go and keep an eye on it. There was not an issue with starting it.
 
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As you did 'maintain' the battery over the winter, it should be good. I expect many years from a battery. Why not just see how it goes, you should be fine.

Edit: Whoops, 670cc beat me on the draw.
 
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Totally agree with 670- if battery was charged alright during storage it should be fine and it would be a shame to waste money/resources on a new one if you don't need to!

Hopefully just one of those rare things that can happen with nearly anything during the course of ownership, maybe to never occur again in all your future owning years. :)
 
As far as the DCT getting 'stuck' in gear by the unexpected stop..... I have not experienced the situation myself but my reading tells me that you did exactly the right thing. Switching ignition on / off and rocking the bike to free up the DCT... Eventually the DCT should make it to neutral.
My 2 cents...
>T
 
Maybe you got a lead acid battery that won't hold a charge, or rather, discharges more than usual. It happens.

Do you have an alarm system or something that is perhaps a little bit of a parasitic draw on the battery?

I plan on adding a lot of electronic farkles to my NC700X including heated gear so I'm thinking of this (Or the Battery Tender one) as an upgrade:

Amazon.com: YTZ12S Z12S Lithium Ion Sealed Battery 12V - 300 CCA Motorcycle Scooter ATV: Automotive

No alarm, GPS trackers/loggers ect ;-) Actually I have measured the standby current, and there is 0mA current flow. I still use the original battery. My charger also confirms that the battery is almost full charged, even after 1 month without charger.

I would newer buy a lithium battery to my bike as long the manufacture don't tell the capacity of the battery. I really don't care about the CCA cold cranking amps) the battery can deliver in a few seconds. Even small packs of lithium battery's today can deliver a lot of amps in a short amount of time, but what is the capacity? Most of thees MC Li batteries has a high CCA and a poor capacity and that's why the manufactures "forget's" to tell the capacity in the specs. So if you have a lot of components that draw a small current, I really don't think it is a lithium battery you should buy.

Here you can see the actual capacity of modern MC lithium battery's: https://cdn1.louis.de/content/catalogue/articles/zusatz/anl/JMT_Lithium-Ion-Batterie-Informationen.pdf?_ga=1.220937946.319723817.1458629336
The original battery is about 10Ah, and the litium is about 3Ah so don't stand still too long with your GPS tracker on :p
 
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As far as the DCT getting 'stuck' in gear by the unexpected stop..... I have not experienced the situation myself but my reading tells me that you did exactly the right thing. Switching ignition on / off and rocking the bike to free up the DCT... Eventually the DCT should make it to neutral.
My 2 cents...
>T

Great, thanks.
 
No alarm, GPS trackers/loggers ect ;-) Actually I have measured the standby current, and there is 0mA current flow. I still use the original battery. My charger also confirms that the battery is almost full charged, even after 1 month without charger.

I would newer buy a lithium battery to my bike as long the manufacture don't tell the capacity of the battery.
It's better to get a reading of the voltage with a voltmeter. Don't trust so much anything else...

You're right. Most problems with LFP caused by wrong sizing (very small capacity) & faulty or incompatible charging systems.

You may find some manufacturers that have the real capacity in the specs, but you may also estimate the size by the weight.

Also ignore completely Pb equivalent Ah & CCA.
 
I had something fairly similar occur on my DCT model when I accidentally hit the Engine Stop Switch while riding at 45 mph (6th gear). I got it to Neutral by rocking the bike but it took a while and was frustrating. I didn't think of it at the time but getting off the bike and walking with it as you hit the manual downshift button repeatedly would have quickly got it to Neutral.

With the bike stopped and the transmission NOT turning, the DCT has a difficult time shifting which is perfectly normal when you think about it.

In ref to a battery upgrade, I use an electric vest and also have a GPS unit on my bike and the standard battery is fine for such use. I also have a digital voltmeter so I can keep tabs on the battery's state of charge as I'm riding.
 
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I plan on adding a lot of electronic farkles to my NC700X including heated gear so I'm thinking of this (Or the Battery Tender one) as an upgrade:

Amazon.com: YTZ12S Z12S Lithium Ion Sealed Battery 12V - 300 CCA Motorcycle Scooter ATV: Automotive

I realize the thread is about DCT so I hate to veer off track, however. . .

The bike's capacity to run electrical accessories, like heated gear, is governed by the output of the generator, not the storage capacity of the battery. I don't follow on why you would need to change the battery to add accessories. Why switch to this battery type? How would it help DCT shifting? I've researched them a little but I'm not convinced of their advantages.
 
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Would you please explain how to measure the standby current.


One method is DVOM using the amp scale or ma scale depending on the meter. DC inductive amp meter allows it to check with out disconnecing the wires.

drainparacitic.jpg
 
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