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Dealer and Oil Pan Plug [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959]

The real solution is that the dealer doesn’t get to touch this bike for anything other than a major engine repair that I’m not equipped to do.

I’m not sure of the logic in allowing this dealer to do only a major engine repair, since they demonstrated incompetence at doing a minor one. The risk of problems in a major repair would seem to be even higher.
 
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Yeah, I’m just saying they’ll be the choice only for things I cannot do (or am unwilling to attempt). I have a decent set of tools and average or better mechanical skills, but only a carport so any major work pretty much has to be completed in one day or at worst one weekend if the weather is good.

There are few independent mechanics where I am, and none would likely touch a Honda DCT (even though in many respects there’s nothing unusual about it). The dealer that did this is considered the “good one,” with the other dealer having horror stories abound.

Motorcycle dealers/service Dept’s generally make car dealers look very competent by comparison, and I didn’t think that was possible.


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I've never had luck with a broken bolt extractor on a bolt with a rounded head (to me, stripped refers to threads rather than head).

It's possible it'll work once the head is gone but if the torque required to round it off didn't loosen it, neither will a broken bolt extractor. Once the head of the bolt has been removed the load is removed so the extractor might work.

Good luck getting it out.


I forget exactly what access is like, any chance you could weld something onto the bolt to get it out? I've generally had good luck with that. The heat helps break things loose and gets it way hotter than other methods.
 
I was looking at the drain bolt on my bike last night and there appears plenty of room to use a 10” pair of vice grips on that bolt. It only has to break loose, maybe a 1/16” turn.
 
So … PB Blaster and vice grips were unsuccessful. Heat gun and vice grips - nope. So started drilling to use the easy outs. One size then another. Nope.

Finally go to Lowe’s Depot and get the craftsman extractor sockets. $22 ($8 cheaper than harbor freight and has lifetime guaranty). Immediate success.

So WiseGuy was right - should have just started with the socket extractors. Word to the wise!

There WAS a crush washer installed. The threads on the pan itself were fine - no cross threading. That means the jackass mechanic at Honda of Winston Salem blasted it with a pneumatic driver at something close to max torque. They’ll never see this bike again (these are the same yayhoos that didn’t reattached the coolant overflow tube and I got coolant sprayed down the right side of my bike).

Cleaned up everything and installed the new bolt, changed all the filters and oil and all is good. Now on to the brakes.

Thanks to all for the advice. This is a great forum. [emoji106]




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So … PB Blaster and vice grips were unsuccessful. Heat gun and vice grips - nope. So started drilling to use the easy outs. One size then another. Nope.

Finally go to Lowe’s Depot and get the craftsman extractor sockets. $22 ($8 cheaper than harbor freight and has lifetime guaranty). Immediate success.

So WiseGuy was right - should have just started with the socket extractors. Word to the wise!

There WAS a crush washer installed. The threads on the pan itself were fine - no cross threading. That means the jackass mechanic at Honda of Winston Salem blasted it with a pneumatic driver at something close to max torque. They’ll never see this bike again (these are the same yayhoos that didn’t reattached the coolant overflow tube and I got coolant sprayed down the right side of my bike).

Cleaned up everything and installed the new bolt, changed all the filters and oil and all is good. Now on to the brakes.

Thanks to all for the advice. This is a great forum. [emoji106]




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Wow, you really did get lucky!:cool: I would have bet money on a bad ending :(. Glad I was wrong!
 
I understand your frustration during this ordeal but it’s inconceivable to me a tech would risk stripping the threads out of the aluminum sump with the steel bolt by deliberately using a power tool at max torque. It would expose himself and the dealership to an expensive repair for absolutely no benefit.

Just my thoughts but I’m glad you finally got it out.
 
I understand your frustration during this ordeal but it’s inconceivable to me a tech would risk stripping the threads out of the aluminum sump with the steel bolt by deliberately using a power tool at max torque. It would expose himself and the dealership to an expensive repair for absolutely no benefit.

Just my thoughts but I’m glad you finally got it out.

Dave, I have to quote Inigo Montoya regarding "inconceivable" - You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means. :cool:
 
Dave, I have to quote Inigo Montoya regarding "inconceivable" - You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means. :cool:
Greg,

How does this revision work for you?

I understand your frustration during this ordeal but I find it hard to believe a tech would risk stripping the threads out of the aluminum sump with the steel bolt by deliberately using a power tool at max torque. It would expose himself and the dealership to an expensive repair for absolutely no benefit.

Just my thoughts but I’m glad you finally got it out.
 
Greg,

How does this revision work for you?

I understand your frustration during this ordeal but I find it hard to believe a tech would risk stripping the threads out of the aluminum sump with the steel bolt by deliberately using a power tool at max torque. It would expose himself and the dealership to an expensive repair for absolutely no benefit.

Just my thoughts but I’m glad you finally got it out.

I blame 12 point socket use! LOL :stirthepot:

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Ok, ok … you guys win. My most sincere apologies to the fine mechanics at the dealer. If I had just gone out and bought 6 point sockets (something I did not know existed) before beginning this routine maintenance, that I’ve performed many times, I would avoided the whole issue. That the trained mechanic could have simply applied the factory specified torque to this bolt is clearly beyond all reasonable expectation - what what I thinking [emoji2369]

I’ll now google what other tools I should get in advance of future “excellent” work from the dealer. [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]


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Drain plug......

GregC,

Glad things worked out in the end. This website does not list a unit
to fit the NC, but installing one might make things easier in the
future.


https://fumotousa.com/


I have no experience with these units but the idea is interesting.


Slo_Rider
 
interesting idea. I've never (ever) had this issue with an oil pan plug before (including on a Land Rover, where every thing you work on is a cornucopia of surprises). It won't ever happen on the NC700 again either because nobody but me will do oil changes again. The oil change interval is quite long (I actually do it more frequently because I'm not psychologically equipped to let an engine go 8,000 miles or more without an oil change :) and it's a pretty cheap procedure. It also gives you a good reason to get all under the bike and look around.
 
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I almost bought a Land Rover but then found out that unless I wanted to work on it, buy premium gas and only get 10-12 mpg that I should pass on it!
I use AmsOil and they state that you can double the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval! So far, so good! I change oil each fall and don't worry about it anymore. I did have my oil analyzed a few times as my mileage went up and over. Was leery at first!

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Socket extracters are a must have.....glad HF or Craftsman has them. Some companies sell them at outrageous prices......no thanks.
 
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