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Denali DRL LED auxiliary light issue

So if I got this right. Install a fuse and relay in the fuse panel for the 6 pin auxiliary plug. Then remove the side panels on the left side of bike to locate the plug. Next plug in a sub harness then connect to that and run wiring to my auxiliary lights. Just thinking while I have the panels off I might just as well install a USB port in the trunk. Is there anything else others have wired up that I may be interested in while I am at it??
Heated hand grips. 12 volt and/or USB outlet on handlebars to power GPS or phone.
 
Powered from the accessory relay/fuse, I've got 12V power and ground to -
  • an SAE plug at the handlebars which in turn powers a 12V -> 5V converter for my phone/gps
  • a relay which senses Hi-beam & momentarily turns on a garage door opener
  • a voltmeter/thermometer mounted below the instrument panel
  • aux lighting per my separate post
  • OEM heated grips, but these connect via a separate wiring harness, not the aux subharness
Largely because the accessory relay/fuse are limited to 7.5 (?) amps, I have a fused frunk power point wired directly to the battery using an SAE bulkhead plug. It's always powered so I have to remember to not leave things connected that draw power when the engine's not running.

And to avoid having multiple wiring connectors stacked up on the battery terminals - a recipe for loosened terminal bolts and future flaky connections - I power my heated gear by plugging into the SAE bulkhead plug in the frunk.

It all works well and has been dead reliable for a year or more now.
 
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Powered from the accessory relay/fuse, I've got
  • 12V to an SAE plug at the handlebars which in turn powers a 12V -> 5V converter for my phone/gps
  • power to a relay which senses Hi-beam & momentarily turns on a garage door opener
  • power to a voltmeter/thermometer mounted below the instrument panel
  • power to aux lighting per my separate post
  • power to OEM heated grips, but these connect via a separate wiring harness, not the aux subharness
Largely because the accessory relay/fuse are limited to 7.5 (?) amps, I have a fused frunk power point wired directly to the battery using an SAE bulkhead plug. It's always powered so I have to remember to not leave things connected that draw power when the engine's not running.

And to avoid having multiple wiring connectors stacked up on the battery terminals - a recipe for loosened terminal bolts and future flaky connections - I power my heated gear by plugging into the SAE bulkhead plug in the frunk.

It all works well and has been dead reliable for a year or more now.
CapeMan sounds like you have a great setup :)
 
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