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Question Double-checking dealer prep?

revmatch

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So my ‘21 NC750X should be arriving sometime in the hopefully not-too-distant future. One thing that’s giving me a bit of anxiety, though, is whether the dealership will actually prep the bike properly.

Last time I interacted with this dealership’s service department was a couple months ago when I had them install a new rear tire on my current bike (Rebel 500). They were quick and the price was fairly reasonable but, after riding the bike home, I realized the rear tire was overinflated + misaligned, and the adjustment mechanism on the swing arm was not properly installed. While they did end up fixing it, they obviously shouldn’t be making mistakes like that.

Naturally, I can’t help but wonder what surprises I’ll find on my new NC. So I’m curious how to best handle that when I eventually go pick up my bike.

Should I just spend some time looking over things like tire pressure, oil / coolant / brake fluid levels, chain tension + lubrication, wheel alignment, bolt tightness, accessory installation, etc. before riding the bike home from the dealership and having the dealer correct anything that’s amiss? Any other items you’d add to that list?

How have other folks handled this?
 
The dealer prep fee, if there is one, is a joke. The factory completes the majority of the motorcycle assembly. There is no reason why the Japan factory would not install the correct amount of oil and coolant, or set the chain slack correctly. They know how to build it. In my opinion, the more the dealer messes with the bike, the worse it will become. I’m guessing dealer assembly is basic stuff like install handlebars and mirrors, peel plastic off the seat, maybe connect the battery.

You are probably better off to request that they check nothing. When I ordered a Honda truck, I made specific written instructions to the dealer to not do anything to it except wash it if it’s really dirty. I figure the more they touch it, the more things will get messed up.

You don’t really want THEM to correct anything they missed, do you? Grab the bike and get it the hell out of there.

Regardless of any dealer prep or not, you’ll want to verify safety issues, especially tire pressure. Adjust the mirrors, lever angles, shifter, pedal, etc. as appropriate to match your riding position and gear.
 
In my experience, oil level (factory) and tire pressure (shop) are the two big things they usually mess up, so check them as soon as you get home. If anything your tires will be low and your oil level high. I've never bought a Honda that didn't come from the factory over filled with oil by a few ounces, and I never worry about it until the first service when I put in the correct amount of oil. It won't be overfilled enough to hurt anything.

As far as lever angles we used to be able to adjust that for customers (I worked in the biz for 17 years) but now those things are pinned from the factory and little adjustment is available. Yes you might need to adjust your shifter primarily because the factory doesn't know your boot size. There usually isn't much adjustment in the brake pedal. And you will no doubt have to adjust your mirrors to suit you.

I also adjust my headlight so I can see the furthest down the road in the dark. Low beam isn't of much use in most cases, because of ambient light of cars, street lights, businesses etc so don't worry about it as much. When you enter a place that's really dark (like the country with no street lights) hitting the high beam is when you will need the light aimed right.
 
In my experience, oil level (factory) and tire pressure (shop) are the two big things they usually mess up, so check them as soon as you get home. If anything your tires will be low and your oil level high. I've never bought a Honda that didn't come from the factory over filled with oil by a few ounces, and I never worry about it until the first service when I put in the correct amount of oil. It won't be overfilled enough to hurt anything.

As far as lever angles we used to be able to adjust that for customers (I worked in the biz for 17 years) but now those things are pinned from the factory and little adjustment is available. Yes you might need to adjust your shifter primarily because the factory doesn't know your boot size. There usually isn't much adjustment in the brake pedal. And you will no doubt have to adjust your mirrors to suit you.

I also adjust my headlight so I can see the furthest down the road in the dark. Low beam isn't of much use in most cases, because of ambient light of cars, street lights, businesses etc so don't worry about it as much. When you enter a place that's really dark (like the country with no street lights) hitting the high beam is when you will need the light aimed right.
The switch housings on the NC are pinned to the handlebars. The clutch and brake lever supports are not pinned, at least on my 2012. You can and should adjust their angles, if possible, for your riding posture.

Good point on recomending headlight adjustments. Every vehicle I‘ve bought new, whether 2, 4, or 6 wheels, has needed the headlight(s) to be adjusted for proper aim.
 
Oh absolutely... if they are NOT pinned, then adjust levers so that in your normal riding position with your hands flat and fingers stretched out with straight unbent wrist, that the levers just touch the bottom of your fingers.
 
Look over anything you feel uneasy about before taking full possession and make sure to tell them WHY you’re looking it over. If you find anything wrong within reason (not just 1 psi off on a tire) then I would have a polite but firm conversation with the sales manager about returning some of your money. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice…
 
I would definitely check tyre pressures cold before doing anything. Also check the oil level. Check chain tension for overtightness. If it has enough slack then leave it alone til You get home unless there is seriously excessive slack. . Check also for smooth movement of the forks. I once took a KTM out after a service and the front end was overly stiff. I stopped to check the forks and the axle had been tightened without first centering the forks. Fortunately I was able to remedy that with the stock tool kit.
 
Oh absolutely... if they are NOT pinned, then adjust levers so that in your normal riding position with your hands flat and fingers stretched out with straight unbent wrist, that the levers just touch the bottom of your fingers.
If I recall correctly, not pinned therefore adjustable to the limits of the cables. The bar has a punchmark to align the clamp to the "factory" setting.
 
For cars, I always advise the salesperson and the shop manager that when I take delivery I want someone there to review the "dealer prep" checklist item by item and show me and explain to me exactly what was done. I ask that the tech who performs the prep be the person who does the review with me. I let this be know when I make the deal, and usually have it written on the contract somewhere or included in an addendum. If I get too much pushback, I walk. If the tech is mysteriously unavailable when I show-up, I refuse delivery and let them know I will be contacting the regional customer service rep. You would be surprised how well a car is prepped when the tech who signed-off on it has to review it with you. I have not bought a new motorcycle from a dealer since the 1960's when I was too young and clueless to insist on this, but I would guess that it works with a modern motorcycle dealership as well. You won't win any Mr. or Ms. Congeniality Awards, but you will get some idea of what was done and how well it was done. I also don't tell them that I am not too bad with a wrench, so I know pretty quickly how high the BS factor is on the review I am getting.

I don't buy motorcycles from dealers any more. The fees and bogus charges add about 30% to the price the bike is actually listed for on the showroom floor. That plus instant depreciation on most bikes when you drive them away just make it too unattractive financially for me. Pretty much the same with cars nowadays. I usually buy CPO/used and still go over the prep and what was done to earn the CPO designation and price.

I would just say don't be shy about being firm making sure you get all the "prep" you are paying for. The sharks in the car and motorcycle businesses eat Nice Guys for lunch. No doubt there are exceptions, and some members here have had excellent relationships and service, but I wouldn't count on it until it is a proven reality.
 
So my ‘21 NC750X should be arriving sometime in the hopefully not-too-distant future. One thing that’s giving me a bit of anxiety, though, is whether the dealership will actually prep the bike properly.

Last time I interacted with this dealership’s service department was a couple months ago when I had them install a new rear tire on my current bike (Rebel 500). They were quick and the price was fairly reasonable but, after riding the bike home, I realized the rear tire was overinflated + misaligned, and the adjustment mechanism on the swing arm was not properly installed. While they did end up fixing it, they obviously shouldn’t be making mistakes like that.

Naturally, I can’t help but wonder what surprises I’ll find on my new NC. So I’m curious how to best handle that when I eventually go pick up my bike.

Should I just spend some time looking over things like tire pressure, oil / coolant / brake fluid levels, chain tension + lubrication, wheel alignment, bolt tightness, accessory installation, etc. before riding the bike home from the dealership and having the dealer correct anything that’s amiss? Any other items you’d add to that list?

How have other folks handled this?
The dealers do not have their "mechanics" do set up and oil/tire changes--they hire people at a lower rate to do those menial tasks. My purchase of a 2012 Triumph resulted in my returning to the shop after 1/4 mile and threatening to take my old bike and cancel the check. The assembly doofus had pinched the heated grip wire which caused a direct short through the clutch cable thus causing the inner nylon to melt and the parts in the clutch. They fired him and they fixed my new bike but left serious doubts in my brain when hearing "we ran it through the shop"
 
As others have written, if you have concerns check it on the lot. But my first question is why you bought from them in the first place? I went to a less convenient dealer rather than buying from one whose service dept under performed (they refused to make minor repairs because they couldn't be bothered). I'm happy I did. Vote with you wallet..
 
As others have written, if you have concerns check it on the lot. But my first question is why you bought from them in the first place? I went to a less convenient dealer rather than buying from one whose service dept under performed (they refused to make minor repairs because they couldn't be bothered). I'm happy I did. Vote with you wallet..
Mainly because none of the (Honda) dealerships around me have particularly great reviews so it’s difficult to know which one is objectively better, and this one at least has good prices / is close by.
 
It pays to get to know all the dealers within reach. Even if nobody likes you and you don't like them. Talk to them. Actively listen. Do not judge them on the spot. Talk to other people in the showroom. Other meaning customers and non customers too.

Hang out on a weekend and scarf a doughnut. Eat a hot dog. Mooch. Then talk. Often you learn things. See elevated prices and high fees. Sometimes you will hear bad things. Learn.

I have scoped out every dealer in my area and got my choices down to three from ten. I made mistakes. I misplaced trust. It took years. But I wont make those mistakes again.

I use some dealers for new purchases (often used bikes) and some for installs. There is always a screwup in the bunch. It happens.

Then there is the shack in the middle of nowhere that fixes things fast and inexpensive.

Know where these are.
While I get your point, I’ll be honest — I have no desire to put this much time and effort into scoping out dealerships, and would rather spend my weekends riding my current bike as I wait for my NC to come in.

I have a shop nearby that does good work at a reasonable rate and I’m learning how to do some of my own maintenance so I’m not too concerned about post-sale servicing. But I need to buy the bike from somewhere and, since none of my local dealerships are near each other and they all have lukewarm reviews and some of them aren’t even getting a ‘21 NC, I ultimately chose the one that had the best price, was the most convenient, and seemed to have the least amount of major issues based on other folks’ anecdotal evidence.
 
Check the alignment of the frunk. Open it and let it fall closed. Does it close easily?
Is there a tool kit and manual, as well as 2 keys?

Check the throttle - is it loose? Does it slide a little left to right? Too much play?
If you have had any accessories added, and they took off panels to install them, be sure to inspect for any missing plastic bolts. Bring a flashlight for inspecting inside the frunk, if anything electrical is added.
Look under the passenger seat. The 4 big bolts holding on the grab bars should have plastic cover s that are seated in there, covering them. These are often missing.

Don't worry about a slightly loose rear brake light cover. They are all that way.
 
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