Dropping Front Forks

[supertux1]

So I want to drop the front forks to install race tech gold valves etc...

Will I be able to do this with the bike on the center stand, wheel removed, and no additional lifting of the front for clearance?

Or do I have to pull the cap, spacer, spring, siphon out oil, collapse fork, loosen triple tree bolts and then remove?

Thanks.

 

[670cc]

So I want to drop the front forks to install race tech gold valves etc...

Will I be able to do this with the bike on the center stand, wheel removed, and no additional lifting of the front for clearance?

Or do I have to pull the cap, spacer, spring, siphon out oil, collapse fork, loosen triple tree bolts and then remove?

Thanks.

With the bike on the centerstand there is plenty of clearance to remove the forks, once the front wheel is removed.

Put the bike on the center stand. Put a jack or block under the oil pan so the rear wheel touches the ground. Securely chock the rear wheel in both directions. Remove front wheel and brake caliper. Drop the fork leg out of the triple clamp. Remove the cap, spacer, and spring. Invert the fork to drain oil. Proceed with modification (drilling) of damper tube and cutting the spacer per RaceTech instructions.

For any future adjustment to the emulator, you just pull it out the top. No need to remove the forks again.

 

[dduelin]

You can drop the forks out for servicing with the bike on the centerstand. You do have to block up or place a jack under the front of the oil sump to keep the bike from toppling forward until you remove the weight of the wheel and forks.

It's also a good idea to tie the centerstand to something up front so there is no chance the bike can be moved in a manner during this job that causes the centerstand to fold up. It happens.

I'm not sure about the second part of your question. The forks have to be completely taken apart to install the Gold Valves and modify the OEM damping rods so the new valving works as designed. The triple clamp stays on the bike but the forks come apart.

 

[670cc]

The forks have to be completely taken apart to install the Gold Valves and modify the OEM damping rods so the new valving works as designed. The triple clamp stays on the bike but the forks come apart.

Once the fork is out of the clamps, and the cap, spacer, spring, and oil are removed, one would remove the bolt at the bottom of the lower leg, then dump out the damper. The inner and outer fork tubes, seals, and bushings all stay intact. In fact, if one could siphon the oil and fish the damper out of the leg, the mod could even be done with the forks still in the triple clamps. But, it's easier and much more thorough to remove the forks.

 

[draco_1967]

I would recommend loosening the fork cap before you drop the fork out.

 

[supertux1]

Thanks guys. I know how to do all the stuff once the fork is out, just didn't want to get into a situation where I realize I need a some kind of extra vertical lift to clear the forks from the clamps.

To do my front wheel removal, I put the bike on the centerstand and put two 60lb bags of sand on the pillion seat, that was enough to make it rock back lift the front wheel.
Then I put a small scissor jack under the front of bash plate to keep it there. DCT parking brake on.

 

[MZ5]

I just weight the rear, too, to keep the bike on the centerstand when I need to remove or work on the front end.

 

[dduelin]

Once the fork is out of the clamps, and the cap, spacer, spring, and oil are removed, one would remove the bolt at the bottom of the lower leg, then dump out the damper. The inner and outer fork tubes, seals, and bushings all stay intact. In fact, if one could siphon the oil and fish the damper out of the leg, the mod could even be done with the forks still in the triple clamps. But, it's easier and much more thorough to remove the forks.

Thanks for the clarification. I assumed the damper rods would have to come out to be drilled and that's what I meant by "completely taking the forks apart" but is different from the meaning of what I posted.

 

[supertux1]

Thanks for the clarification. I assumed the damper rods would have to come out to be drilled and that's what I meant by "completely taking the forks apart" but is different from the meaning of what I posted.

Yeah I don't want to mess with bushings or seals. Toughest part is going to punching all the extra holes in the damper rod. I don't have access to a machine shop, but I do have a drill.

 

[DirtFlier]

I can't imagine trying to drill the holes in the damper rod without it being held in some sort of fixture, such as a vise with soft jaws. I just did that job a few weeks ago.

 

[dduelin]

Yeah I don't want to mess with bushings or seals. Toughest part is going to punching all the extra holes in the damper rod. I don't have access to a machine shop, but I do have a drill.

The Cogent Dynamic Drop in Damping Cartridges do not require modifying the OEM dampers. I've been very happy with them in two NC700Xs. In the unlikely case you don't like them the set up is reversible. When I sold the 2012 I reverted the fork to stock and sold the DDCs to a forum member.

I'm not trying to change your mind from RaceTech, just another data point.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/garage...n-review-cogent-dynamic-ddc-fork-upgrade.html

 

[supertux1]

The Cogent Dynamic Drop in Damping Cartridges do not require modifying the OEM dampers. I've been very happy with them in two NC700Xs. In the unlikely case you don't like them the set up is reversible. When I sold the 2012 I reverted the fork to stock and sold the DDCs to a forum member.

I'm not trying to change your mind from RaceTech, just another data point.

I've heard of those, I'll have to check it out. Do you know how they get around the flow restriction of that tiny hole in the stock dampener?

 

[dduelin]

I've heard of those, I'll have to check it out. Do you know how they get around the flow restriction of that tiny hole in the stock dampener?

The drop in unit is valved for thinner viscosity oil which Cogent supplies in the NC700X kit. Combined with the stock orifice size the center orifice in the DDC cartridge passes enough oil for good slow speed compression and the shim stack opens for good high speed compression.

 

[drdubb]

I plan to eventually go with a cogent suspension
Had that on my DR650 and liked it

 

[Antarius]

I've heard of those, I'll have to check it out. Do you know how they get around the flow restriction of that tiny hole in the stock dampener?

A drill will work fine. You'll be fine, just debur the holes when you're done. Don't be afraid to drill a ton of them. You are basically eliminating the damping rod from doing anything so the Racetech Emulator can do all the work.

ProTip: Leave the fork cap on (and spring in place) when you first loosen the bolt on the bottom of the forks. The pressure from the spring will help keep it in place so it doesn't just spin when you're trying to remove the bolt. If you have the spring out and cap off, you'll quickly notice that as you try to remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork, all it does is spin the stuff on the inside. The spring will help. So, ya, loosen it with the spring compressed / fork cap on!