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Easier rear wheel re-installation

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Here is an idea I tried based on tips and suggestions from other forum members. Have you ever struggled with keeping the rear caliper bracket in place while you hold the rear wheel up attempting to install the axle, and not lose any spacers? This time when removing the NC700X rear wheel, I drove the axle out part way with a 3/4 inch wooden dowel, stopping when it reached the end of the caliber bracket. I then pulled the axle out the rest of the way from the left side.

Upon reinstalling the rear wheel, all I had to do was hold the wheel in place and push the axle through, shoving the dowel back out in the process. No need to fumble with the caliper bracket! This was the easiest rear wheel install to date on an NC.

I also took the opportunity to replace the rear axle nut, what with it not having a cotter pin for a secondary capture device. I figure the self locking feature of the nut would wear after many cycles.

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Great idea....i can't tell you how much I've struggled with that. When I had the dealer do it, they screwed up my brakes.
 
Reminder: If the caliper bracket is removed for any reason, make sure to engage the slot on the front edge of the bracket to the pin on the inside of the swing arm.
 
Nice "garage secret", Greg. Another trick I use (and have on the last 3-4 bikes I bought), is re-install (insert) the axle starting from the right side of the bike (in other words: the nut will now be on the left side). This way, next time you can leave the axle partially "in" (holding up the caliper bracket), while you pull the wheel out (similar to the wooden dowel trick).
 
Nice "garage secret", Greg. Another trick I use (and have on the last 3-4 bikes I bought), is re-install (insert) the axle starting from the right side of the bike (in other words: the nut will now be on the left side). This way, next time you can leave the axle partially "in" (holding up the caliper bracket), while you pull the wheel out (similar to the wooden dowel trick).

Yes, it was from you that I got the idea. Thanks!

As for reversing the axle, I doubt that the axle orientation makes any difference, but on the chance that Honda had a reason for inserting it left to right, perhaps based on wheel rotation direction vs threads, I was leery of reversing it. If for no other reason, I find it works better for me to stand behind the bike and operate the wrench on the nut with my right hand.
 
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Another ‘trick’ that helps is to separate the brake pads in the caliper, push the piston as far back as it will go. This will give more clearance for the disc when re-installing the wheel.

My DCT is a pain because of that ‘other’ brake down there. I usually loosen that one too, cause it’s easier to move the wheel in and out. When I do tires I do brake cleaning/ bleeding at the same time because it’s easy to get at.
 
[...As for reversing the axle, I doubt that the axle orientation makes any difference, but on the chance that Honda had a reason for inserting it left to right, perhaps based on wheel rotation direction vs threads, I was leery of reversing it...]

Another factor is ease of assembly at the production factory. A lot of that "choreography" (from which side is best?) is worked out when they're building the preproduction bikes.
 
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After waiting for 10 days for a dust seal, I finally got the bearings in and the rear tire back on. I didn't have a dowel that was the right size, but this worked:

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