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Question EK screw type master link

Rabbit

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Has anyone used an EK screw master link? It promises easier and more consistent install using only a pair of pliers and an 8mm wrench. I really like the simplicity of it vs a rivet style. My concern is the rivet leaves some extra bits hanging off the side which could rub. Thoughts or experiences??
 
Theoretically the security of a rivet type (98%) but with greater installation simplicity. I know you rock the clip type, but I’m most concerned about hosing up the install and breaking something. I believe clips are more prone to failure if installed improperly
 
Theoretically the security of a rivet type (98%) but with greater installation simplicity. I know you rock the clip type, but I’m most concerned about hosing up the install and breaking something. I believe clips are more prone to failure if installed improperly
I would think any type master link would be prone to failure if installed improperly.

I was using rivet links until recently. I put a clip link on and set off on a 6300 mile ride. The clip has been on there 7000 miles now and I rarely gave it another thought. I look once in a while, and always, the clip is still there.

The screw type looks interesting, albeit rather bulky. Maybe it results in consistent installations.
 
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Never used one myself, but I have general experience with a variety of fastener types including rivets and pin-and-collar fasteners (which is what the threaded style appears to be).
I think the screw type master link should provide the same performance/security of a rivet type, but I don't know I'd agree it has a simpler installation. It seems like you just trade a chain tool for a wrench and nut.
I think you have all the same potential issues as a rivet such as over- or under-driving. As far as I can tell, the installation procedure is "tighten until you can't" which leaves plenty of room for error.
I think what I would like to see is built-in installation control. There are several aircraft fasteners that have break-away components when the proper installation forces are reached. Hi-Lok fasteners have a hex element on the collar that shears off at the appropriate torque, and lock bolts have a notched pintail that snaps off when the proper pin tension is reached. Even standard, pull-type blind rivets pull the pin completely out when fully installed. Incorporating something like this would interest me because it would almost guarantee a properly swaged collar. I'm imagining revising the nut so it has a counterbore on the die end (that swages the collar) to clear the threads and notching the pin such that when the collar is fully swaged (based on pin tension) the pintail snaps off all on it's own.
 
Theoretically the security of a rivet type (98%) but with greater installation simplicity. I know you rock the clip type, but I’m most concerned about hosing up the install and breaking something. I believe clips are more prone to failure if installed improperly
It's fairly easy to install a clip master link correctly but I did read the other day that "easy wasn't easy in the beginning." A nice reminder for me.

New O & X ring chains can complicate securing the clip properly. The rubber rings if not compressed hold the side plate too far away from the rest of the link and the grooves in the pins may not be fully exposed. As long as the side plates are squeezed together enough to fully expose the grooves on both pins so the clip is secured onto both pins and the open end is pointed towards the engine on the lower run of the chain I am certain the link is installed properly and will not come off.

I use a pair of lineman's pliers to set the clip. They are needle nose pliers with a little bit wider set of jaws yet tip is narrow enough to fit inside the U of the clip.

Squeeze the plates together and expose the pin grooves.

Squeezing plates together.jpg

Expose pin grooves.jpg

Place the clip over one pin with the open end of the clip against the other pin and squeeze against the outside of the clip and the inside of the pin. It should pop into place with a click. For extra security I sometimes clean the plate and clip really well with acetone prior to assembly then fill the open part of the clip between the pins with RTV adhesive. I did not do this with this chain installed 3,000 miles ago.

Squeezing master link clip.jpg
 
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I think in general, all styles are going to stand up to our whopping 50-ish HP as long as they are installed properly.
From a "reliability" standpoint, I think the clip-style seems the most prone to a bad install.
I think the rivet type would be the most easy to check installation, since a properly installed rivet should have a measurable head height and diameter.
The screw type appears to be a little bit harder to confirm proper installation than a rivet, but still lends to a solid joint with only SOME room for error.

This is based purely on a quick look at the styles and zero hard data (read: pulled right out of my ass) but I do have some knowledge in the world of fasteners and metal joints, albeit in a quite different application.
 
I might very well have to try the clip type then. Seems very simple with pictures. The rivet type I think is more complicated because of the chance to over smoosh the rivet heads.
 
As far as your safety is concerned, you are responsible for it.
And in this case, ...in my opinion... do not rely on opinion... but on facts.
Especially do not rely on the opinion of anonymous people for whom giving technical advise is part of the entertainment of everyday life.
Installing a chain happens relatively rarely and you cannot afford to make a mistake in the installation, especially if you don't have real experience. Gaining technical experience via forum or YouTube video is rather very risky.
Many manufacturers will give you enough information about the recommended installation method. And this is the beginning you could rely on.
The vast majority of people service today's vehicles in authorized repair shops. Why not do the same with modern motorcycles? (Rhetorical question).
 
As far as your safety is concerned, you are responsible for it.
And in this case, ...in my opinion... do not rely on opinion... but on facts.
Especially do not rely on the opinion of anonymous people for whom giving technical advise is part of the entertainment of everyday life.
Installing a chain happens relatively rarely and you cannot afford to make a mistake in the installation, especially if you don't have real experience. Gaining technical experience via forum or YouTube video is rather very risky.
Many manufacturers will give you enough information about the recommended installation method. And this is the beginning you could rely on.
The vast majority of people service today's vehicles in authorized repair shops. Why not do the same with modern motorcycles? (Rhetorical question).
I don’t take my car to a shop and I prefer to work on vehicles myself. After working in the auto repair industry I trust myself often far more than I trust many technicians I have worked with in the past.
 
I might very well have to try the clip type then. Seems very simple with pictures. The rivet type I think is more complicated because of the chance to over smoosh the rivet heads.
Yes, and a lot of us don't have a pair of calipers adequate to measure the "smoosh" of the rivet head. Too little and the rivet is not secured properly, too much and the link kinks.

Properly done any chain link is secure.
 
Installing a chain happens relatively rarely and you cannot afford to make a mistake in the installation, especially if you don't have real experience. Gaining technical experience via forum or YouTube video is rather very risky.
Many manufacturers will give you enough information about the recommended installation method. And this is the beginning you could rely on.
The vast majority of people service today's vehicles in authorized repair shops. Why not do the same with modern motorcycles? (Rhetorical question).
The only chain I have personally witnessed being flung off a motorcycle was on Fuzzy’s Versys X, as we traveled along the Alaska Highway. The chain peeled off his bike ahead of me, as a result of the clipped master link having gone AWOL. A motorcycle dealer had installed his chain. That is one reason why I do all my own work, and I do not hire authorized repair shops for any motorcycle service. In fact, I do not hire service on boat, RV, car, van, or truck either, unless the work requires manufacturer’s proprietary service methods, or tools such as front end alignment equipment or dynamic wheel balancers that I do not own.
 
The vast majority of people service today's vehicles in authorized repair shops. Why not do the same with modern motorcycles? (Rhetorical question).
The vast majority of car drivers also do not ride motorcycles. In my experience, the vast majority of motorcycle riders also actually enjoy working on machines.
If you're concerned you can't perform the maintenance adequately, but all means take it to the shop, but that doesn't mean no one should wrench their own ride.
The entire thread was started asking for opinions, and I trust Mr. Rabbit has the knowledge and experience to make his own safe decisions.
I don’t take my car to a shop and I prefer to work on vehicles myself. After working in the auto repair industry I trust myself often far more than I trust many technicians I have worked with in the past.
Last time my car was in to the shop, the mechanic left (of course, of all things) a 10mm socket rattling around under the hood. Not really a horror story or a reason not to trust them, I just thought it was particularly amusing.
For me the issue isn't trust. I trust the shops I go to when something exceeds my abilities or equipment.
Most of the maintenance and repair my cars have ever needed, I've been more than capable of doing it myself, and actually enjoyed it.
Troubleshot and replaced an intermittently failing cam sensor. Just replaced a window regulator on the weekend. Going to fix some hardware issues on the exhaust once the ice in my driveway melts.
Sure I could take it in to a shop, sit in a moderately comfortable chair and read an old magazine for an hour or so while someone else did it (and charged me for it) but I can save money, possibly time (though not likely) and also enjoy the process if I do it myself. In general, bikes are MUCH easier to work on than cars for a variety of reasons.
 
With the closed end of the masterlink going in direction of chain travel
Yes. I know that you have installed many more chains than I have and we should also say it's good to have more than one clip on hand when installing one. When the pliers slip off the clip, the clip achieves escape velocity and disappears from earth's orbit. More than once I've had to trek to the shop for another link before I started saving them.
 
Yes. I know that you have installed many more chains than I have and we should also say it's good to have more than one clip on hand when installing one. When the pliers slip off the clip, the clip achieves escape velocity and disappears from earth's orbit. More than once I've had to trek to the shop for another link before I started saving them.
All good to know. Thank you
 
...That is one reason why I do all my own work, and I do not hire authorized repair shops for any motorcycle service...
It's not about you and your technical experience. But, in this case, from the kind of question asked at the beginning, it can be concluded that the questioner does not have sufficient experience in such an important matter as safe chain connection.
Looking at the description of "EK screw master link" it does not seem to be quite a reliable chain link in a responsible job like a motorcycle drive. And yet it is being considered as an alternative method of secure connection?
 
I know I’ve said it before, but I like clip-type master links. In some applications they’re significantly weaker in tensile strength than the bulk chain, but that’s a non-issue on the NCX, IMO.

If one is concerned about the clip departing even after a good install, a couple quick wraps and a twist of fine safety wire should give comfort.

Even with safety wire, a clip-style master is much faster and easier than the other methods, and offers the factory-supplied accuracy of plate compression TheIronWarrior talked about.
 
Looking at the description of "EK screw master link" it does not seem to be quite a reliable chain link in a responsible job like a motorcycle drive. And yet it is being considered as an alternative method of secure connection?
What about it does not seem reliable? It's essentially a pin with a swaged collar, a very common type of fastening used in plenty of places rivets are also common.


It's not about you and your technical experience. But, in this case, from the kind of question asked at the beginning, it can be concluded that the questioner does not have sufficient experience in such an important matter as safe chain connection.
Nothing in the original post suggests the question is being asked by someone who lacks experience, except that he may lack experience with screw-type master links (which is the reason for the question).
 
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