Electrical problem bike won't get any power?? Video

vilemd

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Here's a video link

Anyone good with electrical???? I've been trying to troubleshoot why I'm not getting any power to the bike. Might have drained the battery last night, and then reversed the wires when putting a little jumper on there. I changed the main fuse but it's not getting anything now and after troubleshooting I'm getting a strange situation where the bike is getting power to the fuses but only when I turn the motorcycle to the off position? And the fuses for the ABS and all that are getting constant 12 volts. Power to the starter is only there when the bike is in the off position?? But still doesn't start and shows that the illumination/turn signal lights fuse is getting power constantly but no lights at all? Could this be a bad computer that I have blown or am I missing something? Also hooked it up to a 12 volt car battery to make sure it wasn't a battery issue
 

670cc

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I don‘t generally watch videos, sorry. But going by your text description, you said you changed the main fuse. Do you mean the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay assembly? Was the old fuse open before you changed it? Is the new fuse still good, or is it open now? What do you mean by ABS “and all”? “And all“ what? Have you tested the relays that are on the fuse panel? Perhaps one is welded closed.

If you are seeing 12 volt “24-hour power” present in places where it should be, but it all goes to 0 volts when you turn on the key switch, it sounds like you have a resistive battery connection, or the battery is toast, meaning that as soon as any load is placed on the battery, it drops to zero volts output.
 
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vilemd

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I don‘t generally watch videos, sorry. But going by your text description, you said you changed the main fuse. Do you mean the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay assembly? Was the old fuse open before you changed it? Is the new fuse still good, or is it open now? Have you tested the relays that are on the fuse panel? Perhaps one is welded closed.
Well the video shows me testing all the stuff and shows the fuse. But I'm past the fuses like I said I tested them all and they all work and yes I replace the blown one. the fuses have nothing to do with my problem and are all tested
 

showkey

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Answer to post 4 is critical...........

Forced to take a guess..........battery has an ( internal) short or open under load. AKA it died.
Answer to post 4 should confirm that guess.
 

vilemd

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It's a good battery it's not the battery. The voltage doesn't really
Answer to post 4 is critical...........

Forced to take a guess..........battery has an ( internal) short or open under load. AKA it died.
Answer to post 4 should confirm that guess.
Answer to post 4 is critical...........

Forced to take a guess..........battery has an ( internal) short or open under load. AKA it died.
Answer to post 4 should confirm that guess.

What is the voltage measured at the battery terminals when the key switch is off, and also when the key switch is on?
 

lootzyan

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To eliminate this from the problem list, check that the negative battery cable is properly grounded and other grounding points as well. You may need a service manual for locating ground points. Checking the conductivity with a meter may be insufficient as the conductivity may be lost under load. It may need to loosen the connecting screws and clean the connection.
 

670cc

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I have to agree with lootzyan. I tried to watch some of the video but I may have missed where the negative meter probe was connected for the voltage measurements. Without a good ground or common in a circuit, nothing will make sense. I learned long ago that when you can't make any sense of a problem and the voltage measurements, check all the ground connections, in this case the negative battery cable and chassis ground wires.

Nonetheless, the question in post number 4 still applies. It may yield useful information.
 
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showkey

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It's not the battery that's simple. I already hooked it up to a different battery
Agree on the simple .............Yet it so simple .......you did not include basic info asked multiple times.
It also simple to provide basic details and data .......instead it appears more like a quiz or a game.
It could also be as simple as you have two bad batteries, or the reverse polarity took out the regulator rectifier.

So good luck.
 
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Vilemd, did you get this figured out? I watched the video and it looks like there may be a poor connection between the jumper cables, the battery terminals, and the bike.

At the 1:35 mark it's very possible that when the meter drops to zero it's not because power was disconnected by the ignition switch turning on, but because turning on the ignition switch turns on the headlight and all available power is taking the path of least resistance through the headlight and so the multi-meter reads zero. You have all the right tools and there are some easy checks that can be done to verify, but I won't get into it if the problem is already solved,.

good Luck!
 

670cc

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Vilemd, did you get this figured out? I watched the video and it looks like there may be a poor connection between the jumper cables, the battery terminals, and the bike.

At the 1:35 mark it's very possible that when the meter drops to zero it's not because power was disconnected by the ignition switch turning on, but because turning on the ignition switch turns on the headlight and all available power is taking the path of least resistance through the headlight and so the multi-meter reads zero. You have all the right tools and there are some easy checks that can be done to verify, but I won't get into it if the problem is already solved,.

good Luck!
Agree. That is why it is important to get a measurement at the battery terminals when the key is on and when it is off. If the voltage at the battery terminals drops to near zero when the key is turned on, the battery is discharged or bad. If the battery terminal voltage is not changed significantly when a load is placed on it, but a large voltage drop is seen downstream, there is a bad electrical connection. We don't yet have that test data, so it is very difficult to assist remotely with problem troubleshooting.
 

brb

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Is this a NC700X or a XD auto? The X shows solid red from starter relay to be positive to the fuse box and ignition switch thru the main fuse. Ignition switch has the solid red get switched to red/black that goes to fuse box. all the green wires are ground wires.
 
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