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Eliminate the rev limiter?

I have hit the rev limiter a few times and my last bike was a cruiser that didn't rev past 6000rpm. Maybe it's just a matter of seeing 5250rpm as your max and using the next 1000rpm as your over rev facility. Max torque is at 4750rpm I think. I feel on this bike it's about using the torque. I've ridden the NC700 and the NC750 doesn't stop revs so abruptly.
 
Rev Limiter

I have hit the rev limiter a few times and my last bike was a cruiser that didn't rev past 6000rpm. Maybe it's just a matter of seeing 5250rpm as your max and using the next 1000rpm as your over rev facility. Max torque is at 4750rpm I think. I feel on this bike it's about using the torque. I've ridden the NC700 and the NC750 doesn't stop revs so abruptly.

I hit the rev limit twice on the day I got my NC700S, but not since. We need to keep in mind that the engine design is derived from the Honda Jazz, which I also drive. It is not a powerhouse & is designed for maximum reliability & economy.
I've test-ridden a couple of other bikes since I've had the NC, but have not been tempted to make a change. I like my NC.
 
I'm on my way home where my new-to-me NC700X is waiting in the garage, and I'm looking forward to the maiden voyage - the rev-limiter shouldn't be a problem, since I'm coming from a BMW 1150GSA that had a 7K redline! I would think it's just a matter of, as someone said, retraining the brain. :)
 
NC700X Performance Mod

Honestly, the safety factor on the engine is great relative to most, if not all motorcycles. If you really want to up your speed before shifts, my recommendation for you would be to slap on a high speed sprocket set, either more teeth on the front sprocket, or less on the rear sprocket, or both. You will likely need to re-calibrate your speedometer, or become accustomed to roughly how fast you are traveling, since your speedometer will likely be wrong, unless the NC has a wheel speed sensor for the speedometer, but most bikes take the revs at the output shaft of the transmission.
After doing that, slap on a motorcycle turbocharger, but make sure to keep the boost levels on the lower end, unless you are ok with your NC engine having the same life-span as a super-sport. If you keep the boost pressure in the neighborhood of 5-8 psi, be careful with excess boost, then you should get at least 100,000 miles out of the engine. Since the safety factor on the engine is so impressive you should be able to squeeze much more out of the engine without many repercussions. However, increasing the power to the engine will also produce higher levels of torque as a result of the engine design, so be aware that you may load the chain with excessive force, so when you do the high speed conversion put a performance chain on the bike that can handle more torque, basically any chain that a 1000rr would use, or some large boat type bike that requires large amounts of power just to get up to 20 mph.
If you complete this entire mod, then you'll likely achieve much higher speeds between shifts, despite the revs staying relatively low for a motorcycle. Since you will see more speed gains between shifts you shouldn't notice the lower revs as much. However, you may notice that the aerodynamics on this bike are quite a bit different than a super-sport, so be cautious if your goal is 120+ speeds, because once you break past about the 50 mph mark, aerodynamics are just about everything, and the faster you go the more they matter. So, in short you will never quite get a super-sport out of an NC700X, but you could get a bit more power, at least 20 more hp, and probably at least 15 more lbs torque without doing any engine work, and you may notice a decline in fuel economy, but not a guaranteed decline in fuel economy.
Although I am an engineer, I am not assuming any liability for your modifications, so if you botch the assembly (too much boost, not a strong enough chain/sprocket set, etc...) I take no responsibility. But, based upon the technical specifications and the design of the engine, it should be quite comfortable with a bit more engine/manifold pressure. You can find a decent turbo set for a motorcycle in the price range of $200.00, remove the stock slip-on if you slap a turbo on the bike, because the additional back pressure created by the turbo plus the back pressure of the muffler will be excessive.
 
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Pretty strong stuff for a first post. Iberhold, I see a lot of "you", "you may", "you should", "you will", "recommendation for you", "if you", "you'll likely", "it should", etc. statements in your post, but no concrete data, longevity tests, or real world results. I doubt anyone will bite on your theories and "design" work. I suggest YOU go first with your NC and tell us how it all works out.
 
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I'm with him cause he said the magic word Turbo lol... ;)

How cool would that be, a head to head comparo test with a home built turbo NCX, versus the rumoured supercharged OEM NCX? :D :D :cool:
 
Be sure u take pic,s of your project Iberhold. You should have no problem by the sounds of it so YOU should give it a try? Oh please a link to the $2oo turbo. Ride safe.
 
I wonder if in the hayabusa forums there are folks asking to incresase ground clearance and put 250mm travel on suspension...
 
I'm on my way home where my new-to-me NC700X is waiting in the garage, and I'm looking forward to the maiden voyage - the rev-limiter shouldn't be a problem, since I'm coming from a BMW 1150GSA that had a 7K redline! I would think it's just a matter of, as someone said, retraining the brain. :)

Retraining of the brain not required. Using the brain on the other hand, that is what some people have trouble with and then b_i_t_c_h about the rev limiter. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him think. Enjoy your bike.
 
Someone resurrected this thread, arghhh. I am amazed at the number of riders who want to purposely do damage to the internals of their engine. The rev limiter is at the REDLINE, and any engine operated in the RED LINE zone will have damage done to the internals-that is why there is a Red Line. My opinion, and only my opinion, I believe the reason manufacturers placed rev limiters on the bikes is due to riders blowing engines while riding in the redline and then blaming the manufacturers for creating bad engines, instead of themselves for their bad riding techniques. Scotty stated it correctly (Star Trek)-the right tool for the right job; if a rider wants a sports bike, go buy a sports bike and stop complaining about the bike they bought which they cant ride like a sports bike....
 
Be sure u take pic,s of your project Iberhold. You should have no problem by the sounds of it so YOU should give it a try? Oh please a link to the $2oo turbo. Ride safe.

yea, lets try putting a turbo on a bike with a computer controlled FI system while the computer has no programming for a turbo
 
Totally doable. Most of my bikes (all my Hondas) have been this way, with a progressive limiter. I don't know why Honda bizarrely chose to make the thing so abrupt on the NC700. (the NC750's have changed this to a more normal "gradual" limiter, they claim)
No they did not - like running into brick wall, 2018 nc750x!
 
Perhaps a little more seat time on the bike will give you a better feel for the power band and the shift, shift, shift technique it requires under max acceleration in the lower gears.

Not to be critical of your experience, I'm sure you have that, this bike does easily catch riders out until they retrain the brain.

You could probably handle no rev limiter but I would have been bending valves and breaking connecting rods before I learned to shift before 6500.
Plus you’d be leaving the power and behind likely resulting in slower acceleration than keeping her in the power and,
 
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