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Emergency Frunk Cable made simple

I've got a bunch of type III 550 paracord, once I get it opened up I'll see if that could work, it's rated at 550 lbs so strength should not be an issue.
It's also very light, so routing will have to include a way for wind to not blow it to an inaccessible location.
 
Did it!

After some success with the frunk key, I undertook the emergency release cable mod with some wire aaaaand no troubles!

I snaked it straight down along the ridge of the plastic. I put red tape around the end loop, partly for my visibility, partly because I'm putting red duct tape everywhere these days... :)

Aaand it works!

20170903_153925.jpg
 
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I have seen this thread before but have not done the mod until tonight. Almost 4 years of ownership and have not run out of gas or locked my key in the frunk. I am living on borrowed time and consider myself lucky.

This will allow me to deliberately lock my keys in the frunk if I am going someplace where the possibility of losing the keys is high.

Even some of the cars I work on have emergency release cables for the fuel door or the hood if the battery goes dead or there is problem with release mechanisms.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

Mike.
 
You won't regret it. I tend to stow my gear in my bike, and I have to admit, since I've rigged the quick release, it's become second nature when I accidentally close the frunk too soon--which I do all the time--to just reach for the quick release. Good luck.
 
I’m bumping this thread because it is old and these old threads can now get hard to locate because of past forum software and/or server changes. I’m going to do this emergency cable modification really soon. On my last multi-thousand mile trip, the thought crossed my mind many times how I would be screwed if I couldn’t open the frunk lid due to a mechanical failure.
 
I’m bumping this thread because it is old and these old threads can now get hard to locate because of past forum software and/or server changes. I’m going to do this emergency cable modification really soon. On my last multi-thousand mile trip, the thought crossed my mind many times how I would be screwed if I couldn’t open the frunk lid due to a mechanical failure.
It was mentioned in a previous post but just to reiterate, I did the Burgman emergency seat release mod in about 5 minutes with a fishing leader from Walmart, about $2 investment. An *invaluable* mod to save the worry. I haven't done to the NC yet but plan to.

Update later same night: didn't work out like the Burgman seat release. I used the same fishing line, got it attached and routed in same manner. It did pull the right side latch but seat didn't open. That's when I realized there are TWO latches and it wouldn't pull the left one enough to open the seat. Fail.

Idiot update #2: in case it’s not obvious, I was trying the gas cap seat release, not the frunk.
 
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This thread is older than most of my underwear but I have a question as a noob to the NC. How much of the plastics needs to come off to get to the latch mechanism? I see some screws there but I can’t tell if they are holding the plastic or holding the mechanism itself. I don’t want to unscrew the mechanism thinking that it’s the plastic…and all of a sudden I have a whole new problem.
 
This thread is older than most of my underwear but I have a question as a noob to the NC. How much of the plastics needs to come off to get to the latch mechanism? I see some screws there but I can’t tell if they are holding the plastic or holding the mechanism itself. I don’t want to unscrew the mechanism thinking that it’s the plastic…and all of a sudden I have a whole new problem.
As a general response, it will benefit you to gradually come to understand how all the plastic fits on the bike. There are several different fastener types, and even amongst the button head shoulder screws, there are different screw diameters and different shoulder lengths. Until you get it all memorized, I recommend extreme care in organizing the fasteners and noting their locations. You also need to deal with the proper order of disassembly, and know how the panels interlock. Yes, Honda made it overly complicated.

More specific to your question, to access the frunk latch. You need to remove both fake ducts and then access the underside of central cover forward of the frunk. It is essentially the procedure you would begin to follow to change the air filter. It’s a little complicated to explain in a forum post. A Honda service manual is a great asset for working on this bike.
 
As a general reponse, it will benefit you to gradually come to understand how all the plastic fits on the bike. There are several different fastener types, and even amongst the button head shoulder screws, there are different screw diameters and different shoulder lengths. Until you get it all memorized, I recommend extreme care in organizing the fasteners and noting their locations. You also need to deal with the proper order of disassembly, and know how the panels interlock. Yes, Honda made it overly complicated.

More specific to your question, to access the frunk latch. You need to remove both fake ducts and then access the underside of central cover forward of the frunk. It is essentially the procedure you would begin to follow to change the air filter. It’s a little complicated to explain in a forum post. A Honda service manual is a great asset for working on this bike.
Thanks for the response and suggestions. I will definitely fine a shop manual first thing.
 
Thanks for the response and suggestions. I will definitely fine a shop manual first thing.
An additional resource can be installation directions for certain Honda accessories. For example, the .pdf instructions for installing a 12 volt frunk outlet on a 2012 X model will illustrate how to remove some body panels. View the link:
This particular instruction doesn’t help you with the frunk latch, but might help if you wanted to remove side panels.
 
When I replaced the air filter on the bike, I had noticed the frunk key mechanism/latch mechanism was dusty/dirty/grungy...I sprayed it with WD40 and cleaned it up. The turning of the key was much more smoother after cleaning it up. Going to be part of my maintenance schedule now; especially if I notice the key turn start to become stiffer.
 
Thanks JohnT! Such a simple solution to the the dual direction latch pull. Here I was thinking about a small pulley ...
 
I made one out of a piece of wood. I only use it on long trips. I don't have to remove my dry bag when it's on,
I made one as well before a Dale's became available for sale. In this pic I mounted a small plastic fuel tank on it that I used on an Iron Butt attempt. Before the fuel tank was mounted on it I used it for camping trips. With a dry bag strapped across it I could fuel up without disturbing bag or lifting seat.



2015 NC with aux tank.JPG

2015 NC with aux tank1.JPG

Tape on the frunk lid was to protect from zipper scratches as I dug around in there for breakfast, lunch, and dinner while on the ride. Tape on the back side of the Madstad to eliminate headlight glare during the night portion of the ride.
 
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