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Feeler Gauge use for Valve Adjustment

D_SC

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I have noticed a relatively wide variance in feeler gauge drag depending on technique.
With the blade perpendicular to the valve stem (parallel to the spring retainer) it drags .03mm less than a slightly skewed approach. This is nearly within the +/-.02mm spec but is still annoying to me. I am using a quality set of gauges and have tried another set with the same results. A 45 degree set would do well as mentioned in other threads, I misplaced mine. When the gauge is skewed the sharp edge of the screw can dig into the gauge, damaging it and giving a false feel.

This was a BRAND NEW Bluepoint .279mm blade :mad:

feelsbad.jpg
I was taught to run the gauge side to side rather than fore and aft.


I am missing shims already.
 
A good tip I got on feeler gauge use was to use a caliper to set it to the spec and get a feel for the appropriate amount of drag.
 
Using a micrometer set to the desired valve clearance is a more accurate tool to use because the contact points (called: spindle & anvil) more accurately approximate the valve tip & rocker arm adjuster screw. :)
 
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Feeler gauge drag feel is a learned skill that takes a technique and judgement.
Go no go type feeler gauge are good way to try the next size up that will not fit.

Video on light drag

YouTube

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My sources say the spec is .17mm IN .28mm EX for a 2012 nc700x
I don't have a service manual in front of me but I'm reasonably confident that they have a range of acceptable clearances.
 
I’m glad for the lessons my father taught me as a youth while I was holding a trouble light for him or running to get the tool he needed. The USAF trained him as an aircraft airframe and power plant mechanic. He was meticulous and gifted at improvising when a manual or procedure called a ‘special tool’. When he passed I brought his tools into my garage. For you younger guys, learn all you can while you can.

To the topic, Dad taught me the slight drag of clearance. I’ve got straight gauges, bent tip gauges, and some straight ones bent to the particular need, just like the old guy’s garage in the movie Grand Torino. Now if I can just find them when I need them.
 
OP, I know what you mean about the amount of drag changing drastically with just slight changes in the feeler gauge positioning. It’s an irritant on the NCX, and a massive headache on my Honda pickup engine.

Angled (or hand-bent) feeler gauges help, but they’re not a perfect solution nor even a high-reliability fix. They just help. For me, patience and careful technique have been the only ‘fix’ for this on either of my Hondas. I do NOT miss shims in any way, but other manufacturers make this a lot easier than Honda does.
 
What I've learned is to be triple sure that I'm getting a good read on the exhaust valves in particular. My method is to:
loosen the adjuster screw until the feeler gauge can be easily inserted > adjust to spec > torque (feeler blade still in) > recheck the lash > remove feeler > insert feeler, check again

All this doubly so without an ideal set of feeler gauges
c7d0c5f6-e7db-41c3-9d1c-726b79c785cc_1.76d37a72bdbfa148f69d447d288d9e8a.jpg
motion pro might make a .007" and .011" like these

sideline, bike has 25k miles interval for spark plugs is 32k whadda ya think
sp.jpg
they are easy to get to...

On a nicer note, this is a clean engine, barely a dusting of carbon under the valve cover!
 
sideline, bike has 25k miles interval for spark plugs is 32k whadda ya think
View attachment 38958
they are easy to get to...

On a nicer note, this is a clean engine, barely a dusting of carbon under the valve cover!

I read on an NGK site, which I can’t find at the moment, that they expect this iridium type plug to be good for around 70,000 miles. What with that, and with car engine plugs running 100,000 miles, I think Honda is either being ultra conservative in their recommended maintenance interval, or they just cut and pasted a schedule from some old bike. I’ll probably change my NC’s plugs at 64,000 miles.

If you want to stay with the short 32k interval, there is a much cheaper NGK plug that fits the NC, same one as for the 1st gen GL1800. Our forum member OldCanRide, former Honda dealership owner, confirmed plug compatibility with a “source” inside Honda.
 
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I read on an NGK site, which I can’t find at the moment, that they expect this iridium type plug to be good for around 70,000 miles. What with that, and with car engine plugs running 100,000 miles, I think Honda is either being ultra conservative in their recommended maintenance interval, or they just cut and pasted a schedule from some old bike. I’ll probably change my NC’s plugs at 64,000 miles.

If you want to stay with the short 32k interval, there is a much cheaper NGK plug that fits the NC, same one as for the 1st gen GL1800. Our forum member OldCanRide, former Honda dealership owner, confirmed plug compatibility with a “source” inside Honda.
This is the plug OCR recommended as a compatible replacement, I've replaced the pair in my NC with them twice (every 35,000 miles or so)
4f6a462de4b8087337a194b765e504f4.jpg
 
What I've learned is to be triple sure that I'm getting a good read on the exhaust valves in particular. My method is to:
loosen the adjuster screw until the feeler gauge can be easily inserted > adjust to spec > torque (feeler blade still in) > recheck the lash > remove feeler > insert feeler, check again

I second this technique. Works well for me. The key thing for me is to ensure that the blade is square against the valve tip during the re-check. I flex the feeler gauge to make that happen.

And just a friendly reminder that the instructions on the old NC700X service manual for valve clearance checking are incorrect. I was able to get the correct cam positioning thanks to this forum.
 
I second this technique. Works well for me. The key thing for me is to ensure that the blade is square against the valve tip during the re-check. I flex the feeler gauge to make that happen.

And just a friendly reminder that the instructions on the old NC700X service manual for valve clearance checking are incorrect. I was able to get the correct cam positioning thanks to this forum.
since you aren't pulling the cams, getting the exact right position isn't that important.

For checking valves in general (on OHC engines) I just eyeball timing. As long as the lobe is nowhere near the tappet/lifter, you can check.
 
I dread doing this service on my NC. It's currently at about 10,500 miles. Only part of it I dread is removing the radiator. I hate messing with fluid containing systems. Just annoying lol.

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I dread doing this service on my NC. It's currently at about 10,500 miles. Only part of it I dread is removing the radiator. I hate messing with fluid containing systems. Just annoying lol.

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As far as this job goes it’s really easy compared to many bikes. I take a short piece of vinyl tubing and siphon the coolant out of the radiator and it makes removing it nearly mess-free then everything else is right out in the open.
 
As far as this job goes it’s really easy compared to many bikes. I take a short piece of vinyl tubing and siphon the coolant out of the radiator and it makes removing it nearly mess-free then everything else is right out in the open.
After this next trackday, I may tear it down and dive in. It needs to be done before continuing to get abused. Lol

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[...My sources say the spec is .17mm IN .28mm EX for a 2012 nc700x...Junkie]

You are correct. I was thinking of my NT700V that has clearances of 0.15 and 0.20 mm. Sorry for the boo-boo.
 
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I dread doing this service on my NC. It's currently at about 10,500 miles. Only part of it I dread is removing the radiator. I hate messing with fluid containing systems. Just annoying lol.

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Tacoma...even I can do it...I am no mechanic-I hate working on vehicles and cuss out engineers every time I do any maintenance/mechanical stuff on vehicles (I can take a disassemble/reassemble a computer blindforded though). Takes me about 2 hours, start to finish, and that is double/triple checking everything....
 
I dread doing this service on my NC. It's currently at about 10,500 miles. Only part of it I dread is removing the radiator. I hate messing with fluid containing systems. Just annoying lol.

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If it helps your anxiety remember Honda extended the valve check interval from 8000 to 16,000 miles starting with 2014 models. Nothing in the engine itself changed just the interval. I guess Honda went very conservative at first with 8000 miles but lengthened it with real world experience.
 
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