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How To Foglight switch installation and wiring

Cirrusly

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Several of the things I'll cover in this post I learned from a previous post on this subject. Thanks to everyone who contributed there and helped point me in the right direction, in particular @mzflorida for doing the research on where to find the switch. It's not easy to find for sure! I thought I'd take a few minutes and put everything that I've learned about the switch installation and wiring in one post.

  • The switch is Honda part number 08V02-MKA-D80 and it can be purchased here. CMS is in the Netherlands. It took about a week for the switch to ship (I'm assuming that they had to order it). CMS has a very nice website and they communicated very well regarding the order. Between the switch and FedEx international shipping the entire amount came to +- $40 USD. I have no idea why this switch is so hard to find and is not sold in the US. Thanks again @mzflorida!

  • The connectors that will mate to the connector on the switch's lead can be purchased from CycleTerminal.com. You will want the 4 pin 2.8mm - .110 Male and Female locking connector - Nylon Connector with Terminals (see the picture below). If you have any questions you can email [email protected]. Joe was very quick to answer my questions via email, and shipped my order within a couple of hours of when I ordered. I ordered two sets @ $2.50 each, and including USPS first class shipping my total came to +-$10.00 USD.

    4 pin connectors.jpg

  • If you would rather have a pigtail made instead of installing the connectors directly to your own wiring Jim at EasternBeaver.com can make one for you. Jim can be contacted at [email protected].

  • This video will show how to remove the panels that you'll need to remove to install the switch on an earlier NC750X (up through 2020). The video is about replacing the air filter, but the first steps are the same. I haven't found a video showing the 2021+ installation so I'll either have to just wing it, or wait for my service manual to arrive which is supposedly on its way!

  • Instead of connecting my fog lights directly to my bike's existing wiring, I installed a Rowe PDM60 Distribution Module and installed it under the rear seat. I purchased it from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC for about $213.00 USD including tax. Yes, that's a little pricey but I'm adding other items that need to be wired and this is an easy way to do a professional installation in very limited space. I did have to remove the ears on the PDM60 in order for it to fit under the seat. I also had to remove the rubber boot that was around the wiring under the rear seat to allow the connectors to lay down instead of being in a bunch to pick up some much needed room.

  • Also, for the PDM you'll need to find a conductor to tap into that will be hot when the ignition is turned on. This will let the PDM know that the ignition is on so it can then trigger its internal breakers/relays. The trigger circuit draws very, very little current. Since I was working on the rear of the bike anyway I just tapped into the taillight conductor.

  • In order to run the wiring down the length of the bike I had to remove several of the plastic panels. This is a PIA, but this video from Malstad was a big help. Just make sure you keep track of which screws and plastic pop-in connectors go where!

  • Speaking of running the wiring down the bike, I used some of this split wire loom tubing that I found on Amazon and it helped make the installation easier and more professional looking. Also, this 250 piece heat shrink connector kit has been indispensable as has this heat shrink tubing kit. If you don't have a heat gun yet there are a number of them on Amazon for +- $20 USD. (No, I'm not an Amazon affiliate.... just a daily customer!) .
Ok, on to the actual wiring. The photos at the end of this post should be helpful.

The switch is a single pole pushbutton switch with a backlight that lights up when it's in the on position (depressed). The back of the switch has 4 wires that go the connector that you will connect to your wiring. You can either install a connector directly to your wiring, cut the connector off and use butt splices or whatever, or you have have a pigtail made by EasternBeaver and connect to that. Regardless, you need three conductors going to the switch.

1. A hot lead (this should come off of a circuit that's only hot when your ignition switch is on. Fortunately for me the PDM60 made this easy.
2. A conductor going to your lights (the switched conductor)
3. A common (ground) conductor

You will notice that on the back of the switch there are 4 conductors, but at the other end of the pigtail there are only 3. That's because the conductor for the switch's light is spliced into the switched conductor inside of the pigtail. I've clearly identified the "hot" conductor, the switched conductor that goes to the lights, and the ground conductors in the photos below.

If you have any questions just let me know and I'll do my best to answer them!

Steve

Back of switch.jpg
Back of connector.jpg
Front of Connector.jpg
PDM mounting.jpg
 
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670cc

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Moderator note: Three similar or possibly identical threads were posted awaiting moderator approval. I chose to approve the latest one. If the OP prefers an earlier version, I can swap them (I think).
 

Cirrusly

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Moderator note: Three similar or possibly identical threads were posted awaiting moderator approval. I chose to approve the latest one. If the OP prefers an earlier version, I can swap them (I think).
That will be fine. Thanks. You can delete the others if you'd like, or tell me how I can do so. I was getting an error message when posting them, and finally one of them said "waiting approval". I also have to empty drafts that I can't delete even though I select "Delete Draft".

Sorry for the trouble!
 

670cc

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That will be fine. Thanks. You can delete the others if you'd like, or tell me how I can do so. I was getting an error message when posting them, and finally one of them said "waiting approval". I also have to empty drafts that I can't delete even though I select "Delete Draft".

Sorry for the trouble!
No trouble at all. A while back the forum had some issues with spammers and trolls, so the admin turned up the heat and required approval of some posts, particularly from newer members. I have no idea what the specific criteria is for posts requiring approval, but the forum software now seems to weed out the problem posts like we had in the past.
 

mzflorida

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Several of the things I'll cover in this post I learned from a previous post on this subject. Thanks to everyone who contributed there and helped point me in the right direction, in particular @mzflorida for doing the research on where to find the switch. It's not easy to find for sure! I thought I'd take a few minutes and put everything that I've learned about the switch installation and wiring in one post.

  • The switch is Honda part number 08V02-MKA-D80 and it can be purchased here. CMS is in the Netherlands. It took about a week for the switch to ship (I'm assuming that they had to order it). CMS has a very nice website and they communicated very well regarding the order. Between the switch and FedEx international shipping the entire amount came to +- $40 USD. I have no idea why this switch is so hard to find and is not sold in the US. Thanks again @mzflorida!

  • The connectors that will mate to the connector on the switch's lead can be purchased from CycleTerminal.com. You will want the 4 pin 2.8mm - .110 Male and Female locking connector - Nylon Connector with Terminals (see the picture below). If you have any questions you can email [email protected]. Joe was very quick to answer my questions via email, and shipped my order within a couple of hours of when I ordered. I ordered two sets @ $2.50 each, and including USPS first class shipping my total came to +-$10.00 USD.

    View attachment 51467
  • If you would rather have a pigtail made instead of installing the connectors directly to your own wiring Jim at EasternBeaver.com can make one for you. Jim can be contacted at [email protected].

  • This video will show how to remove the panels that you'll need to remove to install the switch on an earlier NC750X (up through 2020). The video is about replacing the air filter, but the first steps are the same. I haven't found a video showing the 2021+ installation so I'll either have to just wing it, or wait for my service manual to arrive which is supposedly on its way!

  • Instead of connecting my fog lights directly to my bike's existing wiring, I installed a Rowe PDM60 Distribution Module and installed it under the rear seat. I purchased it from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC for about $213.00 USD including tax. Yes, that's a little pricey but I'm adding other items that need to be wired and this is an easy way to do a professional installation in very limited space. I did have to remove the ears on the PDM60 in order for it to fit under the seat. I also had to remove the rubber boot that was around the wiring under the rear seat to allow the connectors to lay down instead of being in a bunch to pick up some much needed room.

  • Also, for the PDM you'll need to find a conductor to tap into that will be hot when the ignition is turned on. This will let the PDM know that the ignition is on so it can then trigger its internal breakers/relays. The trigger circuit draws very, very little current. Since I was working on the rear of the bike anyway I just tapped into the taillight conductor.

  • In order to run the wiring down the length of the bike I had to remove several of the plastic panels. This is a PIA, but this video from Malstad was a big help. Just make sure you keep track of which screws and plastic pop-in connectors go where!

  • Speaking of running the wiring down the bike, I used some of this split wire loom tubing that I found on Amazon and it helped make the installation easier and more professional looking. Also, this 250 piece heat shrink connector kit has been indispensable as has this heat shrink tubing kit. If you don't have a heat gun yet there are a number of them on Amazon for +- $20 USD. (No, I'm not an Amazon affiliate.... just a daily customer!) .
Ok, on to the actual wiring. The photos at the end of this post should be helpful.

The switch is a single pole pushbutton switch with a backlight that lights up when it's in the on position (depressed). The back of the switch has 4 wires that go the connector that you will connect to your wiring. You can either install a connector directly to your wiring, cut the connector off and use butt splices or whatever, or you have have a pigtail made by EasternBeaver and connect to that. Regardless, you need three conductors going to the switch.

1. A hot lead (this should come off of a circuit that's only hot when your ignition switch is on. Fortunately for me the PDM60 made this easy.
2. A conductor going to your lights (the switched conductor)
3. A common (ground) conductor

You will notice that on the back of the switch there are 4 conductors, but at the other end of the pigtail there are only 3. That's because the conductor for the switch's light is spliced into the switched conductor inside of the pigtail. I've clearly identified the "hot" conductor, the switched conductor that goes to the lights, and the ground conductors in the photos below.

If you have any questions just let me know and I'll do my best to answer them!

Steve

View attachment 51468
View attachment 51469
View attachment 51470
View attachment 51471
This is a really informative post. I'd love to hear about your experience with the PDM60. I do not have heated grips but I hear that the PDM60 sometimes has issues when they are connected. Maybe they got that worked out but wanted to share in case you do (something to monitor).
 
D

Deleted member 10242

This is a really informative post. I'd love to hear about your experience with the PDM60. I do not have heated grips but I hear that the PDM60 sometimes has issues when they are connected. Maybe they got that worked out but wanted to share in case you do (something to monitor).

I have not yet pulled the trigger on installing my aux lights. I want to use this switch in order to avoid another thing on my handlebars. I have Oxford Heated Grips installed and read that they sometimes have issues with the Thunderbox. Would assume the same with the PDM60. Probably because the Oxfords have their own power management and turn off if the bike left off for so long (not sure how long it monitors to see if power before going off). Might get around this with the PDM60 by setting that circuit so it is always live. Or if less than 10 minutes, set the power off on the PDM to 600. That way the Oxfords still act as if connected direct to the battery (what I am doing now).
 

Cirrusly

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This is a really informative post. I'd love to hear about your experience with the PDM60. I do not have heated grips but I hear that the PDM60 sometimes has issues when they are connected. Maybe they got that worked out but wanted to share in case you do (something to monitor).
I did have an issue initially where one device (my GPS) that I had programmed as instant-on on as soon as the ignition was turned on and instant-off when the ignition was turned off wouldn't turn off once it was turned on the first time. Instead of fighting with it and calling Rowe, I re-programmed it to delay coming on when I turned the ignition switch on and off immediately when the switch is turned off (like my LED lights do) and then it worked fine. I figured that was a very minor issue compared to the other benefits that the PDM provides, but it was still an issue.

As far as the heated grips go if I were planning on using them I'd contact Rowe first and see if they have had any issues, and if so if they've worked them out before I purchased a unit.

I did find out (in their instructions) that you can't use a battery tender on any of their circuits, but once again that's no big deal as I normally attach them directly to my battery. Right now attached to my battery I just have 3 connections on each terminal - the bike's main conductors, the battery tender conductors, and the PDM's conductors.
 

Cirrusly

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I have not yet pulled the trigger on installing my aux lights. I want to use this switch in order to avoid another thing on my handlebars. I have Oxford Heated Grips installed and read that they sometimes have issues with the Thunderbox. Would assume the same with the PDM60. Probably because the Oxfords have their own power management and turn off if the bike left off for so long (not sure how long it monitors to see if power before going off). Might get around this with the PDM60 by setting that circuit so it is always live. Or if less than 10 minutes, set the power off on the PDM to 600. That way the Oxfords still act as if connected direct to the battery (what I am doing now).
I would think that setting the PDM circuit to always on would eliminate any potential problem, but I would call Rowe before purchasing and double check with them. I'm sure they've had a lot of experience with the Oxford grips as they're a very common accessory. Good luck!
 
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Cirrusly

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I'm not a real patient person, so instead of waiting for the service manual to arrive I decided to try to figure out how to access the switch location myself, and I did. Unlike the earlier bikes where the installation is fairly easy, the 2021+ ones require removing most of the front bodywork including the headlight fairing. Just go step by step, be patient (not easy I know), and make sure you keep track of what screws and fasteners go where (I reinstalled all fasteners temporarily when possible as I went along).

Here's what I did step by step:

1. Follow the instructions on the YouTube video posted by Malstad showing how to remove the bodywork to install their headlight bracket. Follow their instructions through the removing of the headlight brackets.

2. There are 4 additional screws that need to be removed to remove the headlight fairing. Also, you need to push in where shown in the photo to release the fairing after the screws are removed.

1 - Headlight fairing removal.jpg

2 - Side view.jpg

3. Once you have removed the headlight fairing you can pull the display away from the fairing to gain access to the opening for the fog light switch.

3 - Pop out display.jpg

4. Once you have access you can remove the blank switch plate and install the new switch.

4 - Install switch.jpg

5. Reinstall everything by reversing all of the removal steps.

Steve
 
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lootzyan

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Does the fog light warning light on the dashboard come on?
For non-U.S. 2021-23 NC the fog light warning on the dashboard come on if you also connect to the Optional 4P connector - Br/W wire. Read this post:
 

intek

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For non-U.S. 2021-23 NC the fog light warning on the dashboard come on if you also connect to the Optional 4P connector - Br/W wire. Read this post:
In the diagram of the post you indicated, the missing wire is the blue one, but the Br/W is indicated as a dashboard light. I'm confused. it would be useful to write on the image what each wire is for. Thanks to whoever will.
 

lootzyan

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In the diagram of the post you indicated, the missing wire is the blue one, but the Br/W is indicated as a dashboard light. I'm confused. it would be useful to write on the image what each wire is for. Thanks to whoever will.
I understand that you may be confused. To describe what the function of a particular wire is, we need to see the entire wiring diagram. But we only have small fragments of the schematic available. However, it is possible to infer, in comparison with the wiring diagrams from other NC models, the functions of the individual wires. So forget about the blue wire.
In your case, in order to have fog light warning on the dashboard, you need to connect a wire between the installed fog light power wire and the Optional 4P connector - Br/W wire (parallel connection). That's all.
The high beam of headlight is connected to the combination meter in a similar way.
 

intek

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I understand that you may be confused. To describe what the function of a particular wire is, we need to see the entire wiring diagram. But we only have small fragments of the schematic available. However, it is possible to infer, in comparison with the wiring diagrams from other NC models, the functions of the individual wires. So forget about the blue wire.
In your case, in order to have fog light warning on the dashboard, you need to connect a wire between the installed fog light power wire and the Optional 4P connector - Br/W wire (parallel connection). That's all.
The high beam of headlight is connected to the combination meter in a similar way.
If I understand correctly, the wiring diagram should look like this, right?
 

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lootzyan

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If I understand correctly, the wiring diagram should look like this, right?
The connection to the Br/W wire is correct as it has been confirmed.
But the other connections, without seeing the complete wiring diagram, it would be very irresponsible to claim that these connections are correct. Especially connecting the main power wire of these fog lights. What are the manufacturer's requirements? Do you know what circuit protection is on the R/Bu wire? If it was up to me, I would connect in a place where I know what the circuit protection is. Do you understand it?
 

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The connection to the Br/W wire is correct as it has been confirmed.
But the other connections, without seeing the complete wiring diagram, it would be very irresponsible to claim that these connections are correct. Especially connecting the main power wire of these fog lights. What are the manufacturer's requirements? Do you know what circuit protection is on the R/Bu wire? If it was up to me, I would connect in a place where I know what the circuit protection is. Do you understand it?
Hello and thanks for the replies, you can't see well but there is a fuse to protect before the switch. The switch will be the original honda one. The fog lights have a power of 20w.
I am attaching the link to the nc750x wiring diagram that I am using to understand something.
 

lootzyan

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Okay, now we can talk. I see that the R/Bu wire is directly connected to the 10A OP fuse. This means that you can connect a maximum load of 120W to it. Your connections are good. Good luck.
 
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