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Fork oil change

dduelin

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Thanks for the efforts in writing up :thumb:

I would like to check if using brake cleaner to clean the inside of the fork is generally acceptable. I did not remove the bottom bolt to release the fork piston, which I believed some old oil got stuck inside. Ended up the new oil was a little mulky after filling up as it was mixed with some old oil and junk at the bottom of the fork.
I am no chemist but I've had or still have high mileage bikes that I used this same method every 15 or 20,000 miles to clean out. Brake cleaner isn't especially harsh and flashes off quickly. It doesn't harm fork seals and I don't usually have to replace them in any less than 80 to 100,000 miles.
 

L.B.S.

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I've never had brake cleaner ever screw up anything on a bike I was trying to clean, used where appropriate. (ie: not the windscreen or instrument cluster face, lol)
 

ray

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Thanks folks. While on the same topic, is a fork seal driver really necessary when changing the seals? Seems kinda expensive.

9e5a3yja.jpg
 

dduelin

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I've used a driver I made out of 2" ID plastic pipe a couple of feet long. Cut 8 cuts about 6" long in one end and slip a hose clamp over the "fingers" made by the cuts. Tightening the clamp pulls the fingers evenly around the fork tube where they press against the seal when you tap on the other end of the pipe. This was something I saw on another forum. Total cost was a few dollars.

 
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ray

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I've used a driver I made out of 2" ID plastic pipe a couple of feet long. Cut 8 cuts about 6" long in one end and slip a hose clamp over the "fingers" made by the cuts. Tightening the clamp pulls the fingers evenly around the fork tube where they press against the seal when you tap on the other end of the pipe.

Great idea! Thanks :)
 

Wcmike

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Just a quick thanks to Dave for posting this last year. I just changed my fork oil at a little over 19,000 miles. This helped a lot. The old oil looked like melted chocolate ice cream.

I regret that I didn't put on gaiters or emulators but the bike feels better. I live on a unpaved road that looks like something they guys at Rawhyde would practice on and the bike felt better going over the washboards.
 

DB1965

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Buddy you inspired me to do my own now with that in depth clear and consice how to with pics pics, will be changing my springs out for the hyperpro progressives for my 750x
Cheers David
 

LA_NC700X

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I just learn how to adjust valves and now this... Anyone near Los Angeles area know how to do this? I will ride over... I will bring my folk oil and lots of beers! ;)
 

kpinvt

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Thanks for doing this, the idea of using the engine guards under jack stands is great. You can get a rough translation of the page if you open it in the Google Chrome web browser. Look at the right end of the address bar and click on the double square icon next to the bookmark star.
 

vincent

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Look at the right end of the address bar and click on the double square icon next to the bookmark star.

Thanks a lot !

I'll keep you posted if I make new tutorials. I don't write them in English, I use milimeters and Kg.m to measure torque, but as kpinvt suggested, you may try to translate it or comment on my website to ask for further information. I'll always be pleased to answer.
 

L.B.S.

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Thanks a lot !

I'll keep you posted if I make new tutorials. I don't write them in English, I use milimeters and Kg.m to measure torque, but as kpinvt suggested, you may try to translate it or comment on my website to ask for further information. I'll always be pleased to answer.


Thanks for your time and efforts Vincent, I would look forward to seeing any more you would like to share with us. Very nice! ;)
 
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