Hey dduelin; I see earlier in the thread that you've replaced with both the stock (recommended) SS-47, and also tried the SS-7. Any preference between the two? I feel my front is pretty harsh; currently at 10k mi, but I'm wondering if a good first step would be to replace with the stock oil and see how it feels before switching to the lighter weight. Note my forks are totally stock, no drop-in cartridge or other mods like yours.
Sam, I can't advise the comparison of SS-7 to SS-47 with stock forks. I used SS-7 in conjunction with Cogent Dynamic cartridge emulators.
The stock forks are as you described - just OK for slow speed compression and rebound but way too over-damped for high speed compression. When I was riding aggressively on the street and trail braking deep into corners it was very difficult to ease off the front brake slowly enough so as to keep the compressed forks from popping up and upsetting the suspension. From past experience if I went to a lighter fork oil to compensate for the overly harsh high speed compression then rebound damping would suffer and the forks would extend even faster upon releasing front brake in corner entries. The DDC cartridge emulators solved that problem and settled the forks nicely for not a lot of money. Rick at Cogent Dynamics is personable and could be reached on the phone at the time (2014?) to discuss what I was trying to accomplish. I like the DDC kit and results so much I immediately purchased them when I bought my 2015 NC700X.
Cogent owners could confirm, but it’s my understanding that the Cogent emulators require oil lighter than 10 weight viscosity fork oil because (unlike Racetech) they do not drill out the stock damper tube holes as part of the installation. If standard 10 weight oil was used, the stock damper tube holes would always be the primary restrictor and nothing would be gained from the emulator valve opening for rapid compression
You are correct. The Cogent DDC cartridge emulators are a simple design and less complicated and less expensive than the Racetech Gold Valves. Cogent recommends Golden Spectro 85/150 5W fork fluid which flows quicker than the OEM Honda SS-47 which is nominally 10w. As we have discussed before, the common term "weight" is not very accurate when comparing light oils. One brand of 10w may actually flow quicker than another brand's 5w or 7.5w at certain temperatures. Viscosity or flow rate of light oils is better measured in centiStokes and it's also important to measure centiStoke stability of the oil over a range of temperatures with a number called the Viscosity Index or VI. In an earlier thread found here I linked a chart of common fork oils to the installation and review of the DDCs in my 2012 NC700X. We also discussed sag, preload adjustment, and oil level effect on the spring rate. I couldn't find the thread where I installed Honda CB1100 fork caps with adjustable preload.
I’m pretty sure the first thing you do is read and follow the directions for the emulator type you are installing, before you start drilling holes out. I seem to recall that the Cogent cartridge emulators do not require enlarging the damper tube holes.
I also have the race Tech emulators. One thing interesting I found out through an RT rep at a bike show is that they have a silver emulator spring that is lighter than the blue and yellow ones shipped with the kit. They sent them to me for free just for asking.
I saw this comment from you; one of the reasons I wasn't sold on buying a full kit of valves + springs right away. One of my good friends here also has an identical NC700X (2014 I believe?) and did the Race Tech Kit. He left the stock springs in, and did not cut the spacer, and was very happy with the result. I tried his bike and it felt pretty fine to me.
I probably weigh 180# with gear (I'd like to think so). I ran two cartridge holes drilled, then three, now all four holes. I use Honda's oil (SS-8 or SS-47). I run the lighter silver valve springs at about 2 turns. I cut the stock fork spring spacer by the thickness of the emulator, so I am running stock "preload" (I hate that term).
I hate that term, too! You may have noticed, I edited my post because I really wasn't clear if the stock length is "no preload" or just a set preload. Anyways. Preload. It's a thing.
Good to know. I think I'm going to go with 1/4" holes right away. I do note that there is a lot of confusion about where the additional holes go, but from the instructions it seems clear to me that they should all be ABOVE the two stock holes. Any holes drilled below those do not really do anything.
