Oldenuf
New Member
Interesting, that still getting 59 mpg at 80+.
having 2 bars on the fuel gauge showing at 217 miles should have clued you in as that would be right around 100 mpg.
Thanks
Art
Fuel gauge/sender issue
- Thread starter Loomis
- Start date
Interesting, that still getting 59 mpg at 80+.
having 2 bars on the fuel gauge showing at 217 miles should have clued you in as that would be right around 100 mpg.
Thanks
Art
Rocker66
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No! just a well maintained bike
This is the first bike I have had with a fuel gauge in a long time. I expect that if you use the odometer and gas up at 180-200 miles you can ignore it.
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I've had lots of bikes with fuel gages, most of which I would open the gas cap at a stop whenever I thought I was getting low, and shake the bike from side to side to "check the level". Of course it's a bit tougher on the NC, so I fill it at about 125 miles no matter what, it takes between 2 and 3 gal. depending on the type of riding, but so far my gage seems to be fairly close, one day I may even trust it. But trust comes with honesty (or so says DR. Phil) so I'll just keep an eye on things till then. Hey if you got the extended warranty, make 'um fix it, you paid for the right.
FlaNC700X
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Funny I have the opposite effect on my bike, bar number two is rarely on for more than 20 miles. So when it does come on I'm looking for a gas station. So like the Duke at 150 miles I start looking for a gas station and usually put in 2.2-2.8
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Loomis
Member
Like I said.. I knew I was close to empty... The shock is the fact that the gauge is so far off, and only when running thru the last 1/4 tank at high speed.
And sure, it's an easy enough thing to live thru, but why should I?
I mainly started the thread to see if it was an isolated issue, or if others pop up. I am at 6500 miles btw.
I think your fuel gauge is broke and needs to be repaired under warranty. Mine sequences through the bars in very predictable fashion, never skipping or sticking on a bar. I use the odometer as the main fuel gauge, but if I were to rely solely on my five bar gauge, it would do fine, too. I don't cruise at 80 MPH, but I don't see why that would matter.
I guess the trick is going to be convincing the dealer of the problem. You would need to demonstrate to them a near empty tank while having the gauge show 2 bars.
Greg
I guess the trick is going to be convincing the dealer of the problem. You would need to demonstrate to them a near empty tank while having the gauge show 2 bars.
Greg
TechiePilot
Site Supporter
Niiiice. Considering the fuel-sipper that is the NC, this should tide you over for a bit
For those that have additional storage, Reda might be helpful in the short term.Loomis
Member
I agree with Lee, that the problem is likely the sending unit rather than the gauge itself.
I also wonder if there is any kind of ground wiring back there that may have been unhooked during the panel removal process to access the rear shock. Lee is surely the only one with that knowledge.
I've got over 3k miles since the suspension was done, so that hardly seems the culprit.
Possible return flow, or electrical current are the only real variables from 75 to 80.
I also wonder if there is any kind of ground wiring back there that may have been unhooked during the panel removal process to access the rear shock. Lee is surely the only one with that knowledge.
I've got over 3k miles since the suspension was done, so that hardly seems the culprit.
Possible return flow, or electrical current are the only real variables from 75 to 80.
There is a 3 wire connector on the front bottom of the tank that serves both for the pump and the gauge. The gauge wire is Black with Green and runs from the 3P connector to the display unit without running through any other connectors in the harness. The ground wire is Green with Red. It is a hard connector to get to and it is unlikely that you buggered with it without unbolting the fuel tank. Also, if you did, it is the same ground for both the fuel pump and the gauge. So, no workie without ground.
Agree,
This system does not have a return line from the fuel injection system. It is deadheaded at 50 psi and the pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump assembly (as is the sensor assembly). Any way, if it was bypass (or return) flow it would be less at higher speed rather than greater. I am not saying that there is no influence from speed, just that I cannot find any correlation. I have been stumped in troubleshooting many times by drawing incorrect conclusions about what is related and unrelated to the problem. For purposes of troubleshooting, I would consider it unrelated to speed. The only thing that I can see that makes sense is that the sensor arm is mechanically hanging up for some reason. Testing the level sensor requires its removal from the fuel tank.
I'd be ringing the warranty bell on this one.
To clarify: When I say "gauge" I mean all the components that make up the fuel level indicator system: the tank sender, the wiring, the display. The most likely culprit, assuming it's mechanical, is the sender in the tank. Either way it should be a warranty job.
Greg
Loomis
Member
Got it.. thank you again fine sir for the input.
Well, as long as its not the rider, I can live with that.
Jguarfn28
Member
Let me go over this. I've filled Sylvia around 10 times and it seems to be getting harder to rest the tripmeter each time. Today, I shut it off 3 times because it wanted to reset every setting because I held down the left side button too long. What is the reset sequence to clear trip A? It's getting on my nerves. The right button sets the Speedo lighting level, yes? Thanks for your patience.
http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Jguarfn28/nc700x]
[/URL]
http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Jguarfn28/nc700x]
widowmaker
New Member
i have also wondered if the fuel gauge was just a fuel gauge or something more... there has been quite a few times when i get to the flashing bit and then naturally human, after a bunch of traveling, would slow down a tad as to not to tempt fate - and voila! a few miles down the road it would go back to two bars for quite a while.
is it some sort of computer by any chance, calculating it against your normal consumption? didn't think it because of the price tag of the bike.
in the "next model thread" I would've liked it if the last bar would light up normally like the other bars until the reserve - then start flashing. But I am starting to feel guilty about nitpicking on crap - I love my bike
is it some sort of computer by any chance, calculating it against your normal consumption? didn't think it because of the price tag of the bike.
in the "next model thread" I would've liked it if the last bar would light up normally like the other bars until the reserve - then start flashing. But I am starting to feel guilty about nitpicking on crap - I love my bike
i have also wondered if the fuel gauge was just a fuel gauge or something more... there has been quite a few times when i get to the flashing bit and then naturally human, after a bunch of traveling, would slow down a tad as to not to tempt fate - and voila! a few miles down the road it would go back to two bars for quite a while.
is it some sort of computer by any chance, calculating it against your normal consumption? didn't think it because of the price tag of the bike.
in the "next model thread" I would've liked it if the last bar would light up normally like the other bars until the reserve - then start flashing. But I am starting to feel guilty about nitpicking on crap - I love my bike
From the parts drawing the gauge is driven by a simple, standard float assembly that's part of the fuel pump. Fuel sloshing around the tank will always cause the indication to change - with a standard needle type gauge you don't notice the movement so much (the needle movement is usually damped to stop i swining around anyway) but when you're close to the point where a bar gauge moves one block it's normal for the gauge to indicate more then less then more - even cars do that and they don't lean and surge nearly as much as a bike..
treybrad
New Member
Nope, check your owner's manual. Do NOT touch the left button at all -- that's what sets you off into the sequence where you can't reset the trip. You're supposed to have to hold both buttons to enter the lighting/setup mode, but if you press the left button at all, then hold the right button, it spits you off into that menu.
Simply turn the ignition on, wait for the cluster to be 'ready', and hold down the right button -- Button 'B'. The trip will reset in a second or so.
trey
Let me go over this. I've filled Sylvia around 10 times and it seems to be getting harder to rest the tripmeter each time. Today, I shut it off 3 times because it wanted to reset every setting because I held down the left side button too long. What is the reset sequence to clear trip A? It's getting on my nerves. The right button sets the Speedo lighting level, yes? Thanks for your patience.
]Fuelly | Share and Compare Your MPG[/URL]
See pages 22 & 23 of your manual:
Odometer [TOTAL] & Tripmeter
[TRIP A/B]
A button switches between
odometer & tripmeters at the
ordinary display.
• Odometer: Total distance ridden.
• Tripmeter: Distance ridden since
tripmeter was reset (press and
hold B button to reset to 0.0 km/
mile).
BudK
New Member
For what it's worth, Loomis, I zero the A trip meter after each refuel and zero the B meter after chain clean/oil.
I have noticed the fuel bars being erratic at low levels and after quick acceleration and or leaning..I suspect the float!
We must all still be under warranty..give it to Honda to figure out!
I have noticed the fuel bars being erratic at low levels and after quick acceleration and or leaning..I suspect the float!
We must all still be under warranty..give it to Honda to figure out!
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Josh H
New Member
I have experienced many of the same problems as most of you in this thread with my fuel gauge and, like most, have learned to rely on the odometer. However, recently ANOTHER fuel gauge problem has cropped up and I haven't seen much, if any, mentions of this new, particular problem. The last two tanks I've filled up the exact same way as the hundreds before, but the fuel gauge doesn't show full (5 bars)....only 4 bars. The first time it eventually corrected itself after a few miles (10-12) but this most recent fill up still at 30 miles was showing 4 bars (has since corrected itself). Like I said before, I have learned to live with the "constantly erratic" low end of the gauge, but being the anally retentive person I am, this is starting to bother me... Anyone else??
dramd
New Member
Indeed.
With my '09 F800ST, the fuel gauge computer was utterly untrustworthy. After running out of fuel with the $$$ computer cheerfully telling me I had 47 miles worth of fuel left, (first time I've ever run out of fuel in my entire life) I abandoned the damned high tech option I spent so much money for, and went to the old tripmeter method.
Annnd promptly ran out of fuel again! With that bike I could have wildly variable fuel economy, one tank at 65 mpg and another at 31 mpg! So not being able to trust either the computer or what I was going to see out of a tank's worth via tripmeter (Oh, and later I discovered that the "16 litre" tank was in fact, only 13.5 litres!!! but that's another story) I was positively bristling with gas containers for every trip lol.
Eventually I got a Rotopax 1 gallon container as well, and mounted it on one of their L brackets, attached to the rear luggage rack. I will be duplicating this as close as possible on my NCX, it's just too handy! (Rotopax not shown in this picture)
Why did you get rid of this bike?
