Givi engine bars

[duk2n]

Did you notice any kind of new vibration upon installing the givi bars? I put mine on this week and there seems to be a bit of a vibration. I looked around the web and other forums complain about vibration from the bars on other bikes like the V-strom. They've come up with a lot of fixes including BB's and foam insulation. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem.

I had some vibrations with the Givi bars. In the service manual there is a specific sequence to follow when applying torque to the engine-frame bolts. This fixed the vibrations of my bars

 

[vodapas]

I know this is an older thread but I just wanted to thank you. Spent last night putting these bars on and geez!!! I hope Givi doesn't do instructions for any medical procedures. Those were the worst instructions ever and I was at wits end until I found this thread. I'm ordering the replacement screws, it did strike me as odd that Honda would figure out the depth of the screw and Givi would guess that you don't need all that. Anyway, THANKS SO MUCH, safe riding.

I just wanted to tag on to this as well. I was a bit late arriving to the party myself. Although it's been... jeez... already about a year since I installed mine. Regardless, this thread was incredibly helpful and I ordered the exact same bolts as Beemerphile did. What I thought would be a nightmare of an install was one of the easiest I ever did thanks to the information in this thread!

 

[serge]

My appreciation to Beemerphile and all contributors to this thread. I was looking at Motech, Givi or Hepco and Becker bars. Hepco and Becker looks good but I think if you have too add more dead weight to the bike it is better to do it lower rather than higher .. I am still wondering if alternator lid would be cheaper to replace than the bars cost and extra weight. The skid plate is the must though if one takes this bike off the pavement.. Now I see there are bunch of options there as well.. choices, choices, choices..

 

[draco_1967]

I think the idea is to protect the engine cases, because if you crack or puncture one, you will leak oil and then be unable to ride home.

 

[ronsaw]

I bought the Givi bars but became concerned that they did not provide longer bolts for the engine mounts.

Repeating my (condensed) comments made on the ADV Rider board...

The basic product is sound and well constructed. They attach to the four main engine mounting bolts and clamp mid-way of a very substantial frame member, however, they re-use the stock engine mounting bolts. In the case of the sidebag mounts, they provided longer bolts to make up for the thickness of their brackets. In this case, they did not. An economic decision probably, as these are rather expensive grade 10.9 bolts, but I think it is a big issue here. The four engine bolts pass through flanges on the frame and thread into tapped bosses cast into the aluminum engine. Givi apparently assumes that the fastening points are strong enough with 5.3 mm less thread engagement, even though they will now potentially be called on to absorb an impact force for which they were not designed. With aftermarket crash protection, there is always a possibility that an ill-designed engine-saver can be turned into an engine-destroyer. This was often the case with BMW airhead cylinder protectors. They transfer the force to the frame, thereby often bending it. Without them, only a new valve cover is often all that is needed because the cylinders are hell for stout. So I ran my airheads with only sliders on the valve covers and I now question EVERY "crash bar" design before it goes on my bike.

In this case, I think the engine guard and the mounting points are fine, but I disagree strongly with re-using the stock engine bolts. So, I plan to install longer bolts to achieve NO LESS than the original amount of thread engagement as it represents the best that we can do. All four of the threaded attachment points are open to the inside, so a bolt longer than necessary will do no harm so long as there is sufficient length of thread to get to where the threaded portion starts. I will install somewhat longer than necessary bolts so that I have some reserve in case I add a later accessory, such as a skidplate, that wants to mount to the same place.

Here are the numbers for the engine bolts on the US spec 700x with manual transmission (not DCT). All are grade 10.9 M12-1.25 hex washer head bolts.

UPPER LEFT: 35mm long bolt with 7mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
UPPER RIGHT: 45mm long bolt with 17mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER LEFT: 80mm long bolt with 46mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER RIGHT: 55mm long bolt with 30mm from face of frame flange to start of thread

The stock bolts are not exactly flush with the exit of the bosses, so the numbers above don't clarify that the thickness of the threaded bosses are between 25 and 27mm thick. I don't want to reduce it by 20% and add potential impact forces. I publish them here so that you don't have to do the research. In order to keep the engine in position, you have to remove, measure, and reinstall them one at a time. Since they are open on the inside I plan to get bolts 10mm longer so long as the distance to start of thread is adequate. I could not find these bolts in washer head, but +10mm will allow enough length to add a washer under the head. The upper right bolt can be re-used on the upper left. I purchased three new bolts in 55mm, 70mm (65 was not available), and 90mm length with grade 10.9 washers from:

Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online
.

As an Automotive and Heavy-Duty truck Service Advisor / Foreman / Manager, I completely agree with your thoughts regarding this. Makes no sense to me why the manufacturer would not provide correct-lenth bolts with the added length. A no-brainer to me.

 

[----x----]

I purchased the additional bolts as described in previous posts. I had trouble adding a longer bolt to the lower right as it would hit a piece of the frame, so I kept it stock.

Otherwise these engine guards went on fairly easily, and i'm a novice without any experience working on bikes.

I did use this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SX7K4H85M4 to help guide me through it, though honestly I didn't need it.

 

[Disastrous]

So how do you get the bolt out on the upper right? It is blocked by the clutch cable and the fuel feed hose. I haven't seen anything on this in my reading.
Regards,
Mark

 

[Disastrous]

I got it worked out. The instructions didn't mention disconnecting them but I found this video which helped.
Regards,
Mark

 

[ST13Fred]

In aviation jargon it's called Remove FOM (for other maintenance).
I installed the Givi bars and remember RFOM in working the upper bolt(s).
Of all the bars out there I liked the look of the Givi best. I have $30, 2" LED running lights, wired to Hi beam, mounted on top and they work perfectly.

 

[jgoodmark]

I just installed these bars today and wanted to add my thanks to Beemerphile and everyone else who provided such useful information. The install went smoothly thanks to everyone else's research! FYI, I was able to reuse the lower right bolt in the upper right location with no problem, so I only needed to buy two bolts (90mm and 65mm). The bolts I got were black, so I added anti-seize to the threads just in case.

I noticed a few people mentioned a vibration after installing these bars. The only difference I noticed was a slight vibration in the right foot peg around 3000 rpm that was not there before. Not a big deal to me, but I am curious if that's what others noticed, or if it was more severe.

Jeff

 

[pahondafan]

The attached video is great, but did not make me any more confident I could do the job myself. I installed my center stand and top rack but this involves the engine so I am a bit nervous about screwing something up.

I have some questions.

1. I did not see any torquing of the engine bolts. Did I miss it?

2. It appeared that the original bolts were reused instead of longer ones as others have recommended.

3. What was in the spray can, thread locker?

4. Lastly what is the key switch on the left side of the bike below the frunk? I see this is a 750 but I thought the basic bike was the same as the 700.
Thanks

 

[potter0o]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Put the used bars on today with the stock fasteners. Wanted to get a feel for the install. Will try to track down longer bolts this week.

 

[potter0o]

Just an update on this. I could not find the bolts anywhere locally and I am quite persistent. I kept watching the link Beemerphile provided but never saw the the 90mm lenght. I finally got off my butt today and called them. They have some but not many and their supplier is out so they are not active on the website. Spoke with a very pleasant girl who confirmed that they have stock, helped do the order for stuff not on the website and processed my Canadian credit card. Price for two bolts, six washers and shipping was $11.03. I think I spent more than that in gas shopping locally. Thanks for the great source Beemerphile.

 

[jclay]

Looks like Sw motech has pulled their failed non fitting crash bars finally. No replacement mentioned. They should fire some people in qc since their skid plate fitment suffers as well. Givi is loving Sw at the moment for their incompetence.

 

[booblinker]

Looks like Sw motech has pulled their failed non fitting crash bars finally. No replacement mentioned. They should fire some people in qc since their skid plate fitment suffers as well. Givi is loving Sw at the moment for their incompetence.

Guess The Cheap and quick option was worked out since the motech don't fit well, hope the motech rack I ordered fits well.

 

[TheIronWarrior]

4. Lastly what is the key switch on the left side of the bike below the frunk? I see this is a 750 but I thought the basic bike was the same as the 700.
Thanks

On the "S" model, that's the gas/frunk key hole.

 

[GregC]

Looks like Sw motech has pulled their failed non fitting crash bars finally. No replacement mentioned. They should fire some people in qc since their skid plate fitment suffers as well. Givi is loving Sw at the moment for their incompetence.

The SW crash bars fit with no issues on my 2015 DCT. Guess their mfg'g and QC are inconsistent as well as bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GunNut37086]

I don't know whether to blame SW-Motech or Honda. Seems like a lot more pieces have to align to build a motorcycle than to drill holes in a skid plate or bend some crash bars. Who knows?

 

[670cc]

I don't know whether to blame SW-Motech or Honda. Seems like a lot more pieces have to align to build a motorcycle than to drill holes in a skid plate or bend some crash bars. Who knows?

I think the motorcycle frame build tolerances are pretty tight. It's amazing that if you take all the plastic off and reinstall it, it just fits exactly into place on the frame.

Givi crash bars have poor quality control, too. The first set I got absolutely couldn't be fit on one side. They had to be replaced (after I went to a lot of effort to prove they were built wrong). Even the set I have now has differences in the bends when you compare the two sides.

 

[GunNut37086]

I think the motorcycle frame build tolerances are pretty tight. It's amazing that if you take all the plastic off and reinstall it, it just fits exactly into place on the frame.

Givi crash bars have poor quality control, too. The first set I got absolutely couldn't be fit on one side. They had to be replaced (after I went to a lot of effort to prove they were built wrong). Even the set I have now has differences in the bends when you compare the two sides.

You're probably right, just stirring the pot.

I can see how Givi or SW or whomever can get some bends wrong on a set of crash bars, but jeez a skid plat is a flat piece of metal with a few bent edges. It's pretty pathetic for the holes to be off.