Question Have you had your panels off?

Janus

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When I had my 2009 BMW G650GS, an air filter change from start to finish was max of 15 minutes....but god, the valve checks took hours and had bucket/shims....and my c50 boulevard-air filter is a 5 minute job, but a valve check, have to remove that heavy metal gas tank-trying to hold the back of the tank high enough to reach under and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump-ouch, and remove the radiator...
I know you didn't mean to convince me to sell my C50 but.... Oof.
 

BFair

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On the NC700 the proper sequence is important so your not trying to fold panels over one another. A you tube video got me started on the right direction. I have problems with black pieces that surround the headlight and guages. If you don't loose a clip consider yourself a pro.
 

greenboy

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Made me appreciate the design of bikes I've seen that have simple panel removal. Some of them are road bikes, though it's pretty much guaranteed that dual sports and dirt bikes make things quick and easy.
 

Wedders

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I’ve had the panels on and off a few times now because I keep forgetting things like not connecting indicators. So I could now do it blindfolded.
 

BFair

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Always considered it like a Rubix cube. Soon as you master it you windup with another bike. The different sizes allens with different collar thicknesses get me. Keeps us sharp!
 

Wedders

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Always considered it like a Rubix cube. Soon as you master it you windup with another bike. The different sizes allens with different collar thicknesses get me. Keeps us sharp!
Yeah! The different sizes of bolts are a pain in the arse M5, M6 etc etc. Can I say pain in the arse on a public forum?
 

halfSpinDoctor

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This was posted in another thread, but for anyone lamenting having lost or broken any of the plastic push pins / panel "rivets", I ordered these off of AliExpress and found them to be an identical match to the OEM ones (slightly different texture on top):


For anyone in the US who need s one or two, I'm happy to mail you them as I won't be needing all 20 from my order.
 

BFair

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This was posted in another thread, but for anyone lamenting having lost or broken any of the plastic push pins / panel "rivets", I ordered these off of AliExpress and found them to be an identical match to the OEM ones (slightly different texture on top):


For anyone in the US who need s one or two, I'm happy to mail you them as I won't be needing all 20 from my order.
 

BFair

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Very nice to offer, I lost one that's been bugging me....
 

davidc83

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I know you didn't mean to convince me to sell my C50 but.... Oof.
Oh no!!...to be honest, I did go from 28,000 miles to 100,000 miles without checking the valves on the C50.... I would have the valves checked (did it once myself) every 5000 miles at a local mom/pop shop (and a couple of times at dealership), both kept saying in specs, didnt need adjusted....at 100,000 miles, still within specs-guess I got a good one...Road it to my grandson's birthday party yesterday and still running like a top...I dont get it above 70-87 mph anymore (since covid work at home mandate at my company). On a C50 boulevard forum, there are riders whose engines went kaput in the 30,000 mile range, rear-drive (it is shaft drive) which went kaput around 35,000 mile range; but I have had no problems...change oil around the 4000 mile mark, change the rear-drive gear oil once a year. Almost 102,000 miles on it now.... So this thread isnt hi-jacked....This weekend I need to do a valve check on the NC700 and practice removing those clips and connectors on the NC700-need to change the air filter some time this summer just due to age (2013-57,000 miles and oem air filter) but I still get around 65-75 mpg (US gallon) on the bike..so....
 

Thunderstick

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I pulled the right side of my 2018 yesterday to install two power sockets. I only had to partially disassemble it twice, but nothing left over. I also had a loose instrument cluster/ windshield mount on that side. When I removed the inner panel one of the two bolts holding it just fell out! The bolts that look almost the same, and the push pin in a recessed hole in the break are a PIA!
I'll add, use that smart phone to take pictures as you go!
 

Integrator

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Well Guys - Aren't you the lucky ones..! :D:p
When we Integra owners Are splitting our ‘CamperVans’ :eek: we are testing the patience in our neighbourhoods.!.:D
But, after a while it is not a big issue anymore.. Just to change the DCT filter we have to remove 6 panels.. practise makes a master! :p
So now.. I go into a kind of Yoda’ish zen state of mind, to remove the pins In less than 5 min.. and then remove the panels, together with the few new revealed pins..
much faster than take one panel at a time.. :D

Finally - on my hobby 3D printer I have made My own push pins in my own ‘ten Thumb’ version.. :eek: so now I have a little handle (or a ‘knob‘, as J. Clarkson would had said) to pull..:rolleyes:
Easier, faster, better, stronger, longer..

If a 3D printer is near you.? I recommend to Try it Out.. :D
I’ve made a lot of other MC related stuff, small dashboard and so.. but this little
pushpin.. is the biggest help..

(left and lower, u see the standard pin.. Right and upper you see my ten thumbs version..)
Hope you can use it. :D
 

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mtnbiker1185

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Not that it helps your current situation, but when learning how to rebuild small engines in high school shop class my teacher told us to put the bolts back into the holes they came out of once a part was removed. That way you don't have to worry about losing them or remembering where they all went, especially if the project is going to span hours or days. I have been doing that ever since and have never had a problem. There are occasionally situations where I can't do that due to needing the bolts out to remove more parts, but they tend to be few and far between. I do the same thing with the plastic rivets, just sometimes it is easier to leave them in the part you took off than in the vehicle itself.
 
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