Heated Grips and 12V/USB Outlet Installation Questions

DTMWAP

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I need to install these 2 items on my newly acquired 2015 NC750X. I'm looking at a location where to pick-up 12V switched power for both the grips (Koso Apollo) and the 12V/USB unit. I know I can buy an accessory harness from Honda (Part #08A70MJLD30 @ 40$ CDN) but I see most users going that route replacing the connectors of this harness. Instead, can I tap 12V switched power from the connector (or its wires - blue arrow on image) to which the accessory harness connects to? OR, is there a better location to tap switched 12V ? FYI, I don't intend to add other electrical accessories in the future.
NC750Harness.jpg
Thanks for advice.
Dan
 

670cc

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You can get the 12 volt switched power from the 6P plug that the accessory harness would connect to. But to do that, you do need to add the Honda accessory relay and fuse into the fuse block. The relay has a Honda accessory part number, which I don’t have access to at the moment.
 
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DTMWAP

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So, if my understanding is correct, this 6P connector don't supply 12V unless the relay and fuse are present in the fuse box. In this case, I may go with the harness as well if I have to buy the relay and fuse.

Thanks Greg.
 

HarveyM

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Greg (or Dan?) the relay is
08A70-MGS-D30 PM1 NC7 RELAY SET $18.48 (Cad)
And sold as a separate part from the sub harness (FYI: it's less than $10 in the US).
The sub harness just splits the six pin plug into three (with the thinest wires possible) for $41 (Cad). After buying the sub harness I'd say you're better off (if you can use a multimeter or even a test light) to buy connectors to make your own sub harness. After all if you buy Honda's sub harness you still need to add mating connectors to your grips & USB. I bought my connectors here Motorcycle 2.8mm - 110 Connector and Terminals based on this thread Corresponding connectors
 
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DTMWAP

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Greg (or Dan?) the relay is
08A70-MGS-D30 PM1 NC7 RELAY SET $18.48 (Cad)
And sold as a separate part from the sub harness (FYI: it's less than $10 in the US).
The sub harness just splits the six pin plug into three (with the thinest wires possible) for $41 (Cad). After buying the sub harness I'd say you're better off (if you can use a multimeter or even a test light) to buy connectors to make your own sub harness. After all if you buy Honda's sub harness you still need to add mating connectors to your grips & USB. I bought my connectors here Motorcycle 2.8mm - 110 Connector and Terminals based on this thread Corresponding connectors

As of now, this is what I plan to do; buy the relay (22.11$ + taxes here in the Montreal area), and make my own sub-harness. Will keep you posted.
 

DTMWAP

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I’m finally done with the Koso Apollo heated grips and 12V/USB outlet installation. I wanted the Koso Apollo grips because of their integrated control and their good reputation. The Koso Apollo grips comes in different models and lengths; the 120 mm length fits perfectly on the NC:

01_6988.jpg

The outlet to be installed in the frunk:

03_Outlet.jpg

I ordered the Honda relay kit that comes with a 7.5 A fuse and installed in the fuse box as per Honda’s instructions (very simple):

02_Relay_6968.jpg

After removing the necessary tupperware:

Tupperware_6971.jpg

I was able to extract the 6P Option A connector from its holder molded on the left side of the exterior skin of the frunk. This is where you would connect the Honda accessory harness:

04_Connector_6973.jpg

6P OPTION A connector is shown on far right on the wiring diagram:

04_Wiring.jpg

I extracted the V/R (Violet/Red) wire from the connector and made temporary electrical connections to validate that both heated grips and the outlet were functional. BTW, the V/R wire is the only one from the connector to give switched current. The R/W (Red/White) wire is always ON.

After the electrical validation, I finalized my wiring up to the electrical connections (electrical plugs) of both components. I used the V/R wire end mini connector to crimp positive of the grips and the outlet. All connections were covered with heatshrink tubing. Where to attach ground was a no-brainer; just beside the 6P connector:

ZIP-Tie_6976.jpg

Then the physical installation of the heated grips began. This is where I went into trouble.
Usually, the most challenging part for me is the electrical side of any installation. This time it was the opposite. The main reasons: The Honda throttle plastic tube has a series of bumps to prevent the rubber from twisting; you need to remove all these bumps and the outer raised edge of the plastic tube:

06_Bumps_6981.jpg

Additionally, the Koso Apollo grips have a rigid plastic liner inside them. I never thought to check this when I bought them. That plastic liner makes the installation far more complicated than if it was rubber. You need to get a very smooth surface on the throttle tube to expect the supplied glue to stick the grip to the throttle tube. And you end up with some visible non-aesthetic white plastic on the inner side:

Rubber washer_6985.jpg

Moreover, on the left side, the inside plastic liner of the Koso grip is extremely difficult to slide on the bare handlebar. It took a fair amount of Jig-A-Loo to install. Usually to do this, I take some dishwashing soap with a bit of water to ease installation. When it dries, it stick the grip to the handlebar but with the much too tight Koso grips, it was impossible.

One other thing I don't like about the Koso grips; the wire lengths from grips on both sides are 6" too short, which prevent me to bring their connectors and the in-line Koso control close to the battery access trap in the frunk. Being too short, now if I want to disconect the grips for some maintenance purposes, I have to remove some tupperware:

09_Final_6983.jpg

The bottom line: If I was to do this again, I would look at Oxford grips and tolerate the separate controller. When I was shopping for this, I was able to get an Oxford kit for around 115$ CDN. I paid 175$ CDN for the Koso kit…
 
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