Heated Grips installed, but bike won't start

[NuckaMan]

I have bit of a head-scratcher right now.

Over the weekend, I installed the OEM Heated Grips. Followed the instructions and it seemed to go on ok, tested it, works as intended. I button everything back up and go to hit the starter button and nothing.

All fuses are ok, no warning lights or FI lights, traced back my work and the Heated Grips wiring harness does nothing that influences the ignition system that I can tell. I am going to dig in and remove the Heated Grips wiring harness and see if the problem still exists.

Anyone have any suggestions? Or places to look?

 

[670cc]

Kill switch, or it’s wiring, perhaps?

 

[Rapturee]

Always double check the kill switch and make sure it is in Neutral(ok, yah, so, i did that one too). I tried to restart mine after doing a bunch of work just the other day buy reaching up and over the bars to start it and never paid any attention to the dash readout that never said "N". Evidentially i hd pulled the shifter down into 1st gear while working on it and climbing all over it. Stumped me for several minutes, i too rechecked and retraced all of my work/electrical connections. Then noticed it the big green "N" was not on... Duuooohhh, gotta love easy fixes, so grateful for that too! :{)

 

[NuckaMan]

Yup in Neutral. No go.

Undid all the work last night, meaning, disconnected the HG Wiring Harness....still the same issue. I am wondering if the start button or assembly some how got damaged from the installation process. The saga continues.

 

[lootzyan]

You could be lucky if you checked fuses (#1) and the connectors for loose connections but, in many cases, you need to start checking the electrical circuits with the multi-meter according to the wiring diagram. Less guessing.

 

[NCX19]

Dumb question - but did you disconnect the battery before working on it? And did you reconnect it?
No lights etc? gotta be battery connection. I have a couple lugs under each screw. Miss one?

Next check fuses.

Next, wiring diagram and test probe all connections from battery to ignition switch.

 

[NuckaMan]

There are no dumb questions here, only helpful ones.

Technically I should have, but no, I did not disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on it. When the bike is turned on, everything works, dash, headlight, horn, turnsignals....and even the heated grips, along with the dash recognizing the heated grips. Everything BUT the starter button.

I have pulled all the fuses and inspected every one to make sure none are blown. I may reinstalled new ones regardless just to make sure.

I also pulled the kill-switch/starter button housing from the bike and brought it to work with me where I have access to a microscope to do a full inspection and make sure the microswitch is not damaged somehow.

Next up will be taking a multimeter and checking output signals. ONCE I get this figured out, I'll post up the root cause. Until then, the saga continues.....

Thanks to all for offering the advice and guidance.

 

[NuckaMan]

I believe the case has been solved.

In between inhaling my lunch burrito at work, I took a multimeter and measured the resistance between the various wire combinations that make up the kill switch and starter switches. Verified the kill-swich works, but when I came to the start switch...nothing, meaning, there was nothing being measured across the starter switch, when depressed.

So digged a little further and took the entire switch assembly apart and noticed nice circular hole made by the mounting screw. Not 100% sure what exactly is causing the switch failure behind that little hole much it must have broken or loosen electrical contacts, but the overall housing has been compromised. Not sure if I can open up the housing cause looks like the switch assembly is sealed.

In a nut-shell, looks like I am buying a new switch assembly.

Thanks for listening.

P.S. I will need to investigate how and why I over drove the mounting screw into back of that switch.

 

[dduelin]

In other words the two switch pod screws are different lengths and installing the longer one in the location of the shorter one caused the failure?

 

[NuckaMan]

Actually, both screws are the same in length but I did not notice each screw had a spacer that I should have used. Lesson learned.

Also, the hole, basically prevented the start switch from moving full throw, not allowing contact on the other side of the switch. Repaired the issue and back on the road.

 

[dduelin]

Glad you solved the puzzle.

I brought an Elite 80 scooter back from the grave a few years ago. After getting it running good I replaced the CVT drive belt and after getting it all back together it would not start. No spark. To R & R the drive belt it was necessary to remove the flywheel/stator. Honda specifies a special tool for this but I fabricated my own. I was proud of myself for making my own 'special tool'. It used two threaded holes in the flywheel to hold it with a long flat bar so the big crankshaft nut could be removed. After much trouble shooting and a few new ignition system parts and no spark I started taking it back apart. The rotor was open circuit when it should have had some resistance but how could that be when it wasn't damaged before removing the flywheel? Turns out one of the bolts in the tool I made was too long and contacted the wire-wrapped rotor, ruining it.

After removing the flywheel I found one of the bolts I used to thread into the flywheel to hold it was a few mm too long and I ruined the copper wire-wound rotor that resided behind the flywheel.