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help me wire a fuse block right?

GunNut37086

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I'm desperately trying to find as much of this info as I can on my own. I got most of it from dduelin's Accessory fuse block add-on thread from 2012 and a few well-done YouTube videos. However, a couple of things have me stumped and I hope someone wouldn't mind helping me with the following things:

1. dduelin's fuse block has a negative post on it, mine doesn't. I planned to drill a hole, run a nut/bolt thru an unused section of the board to for battery terminal rings for the ground wires from whatever I'm wiring to each fuse and run a single ground wire to the negative post on the battery. Is that the wrong way to do it?

2. I want my fuse block to only get juice when the switch is on, so I bought a relay and a relay wiring harness. I know I have power in from the battery (30), power out to the fuse block (87), negative out to the battery (85), and pin 86 is the power in for the relay from some switched source. I know needs to be something like the tail light or headlight that gets power while the switch is on, but where do I get that wire without compromising a lot of existing weather sheathing and/or making a mess of things? I mean I literally need someone to tell me in terms an idiot would understand, pictures would help, if it's not too much trouble.

3. Once identified, is it safe to use one of those quick splice wire connectors to an exposed wire on the back of the headlight, if I wrap it up with electrical tape to seal it up?​

I'm trying to this as "right" as possible without taking off a bunch of body panels. Admittedly, I know doodly squat about the factory fuse block. There sure are a lot of empty slots in there, I'm just clueless on how to take advantage of them. Plus, I already bought $70 worth of parts to do this the way I mostly understand. Any help will be appreciated.
 
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I added a small bolt as a negative post to the Bussman Cooper 15600 ATC fuse block just as you are thinking of doing. The block as it comes does not have a negative terminal. 1/4-20 if I recall.

You can use any switched positive wire to power the relay.
 
Don't get your switched power relay signal from the headlight. If you did, it would go off when you switched to high beam. And no, you can't wire it to both beams or you have then connected both high and low beams and they would both be on all the time.

If you already have the Honda accessory harness for the Honda 12 volt frunk outlet or Honda heated grips, you can get your 12 volt switched signal from that.
 
I added a small bolt as a negative post to the Bussman Cooper 15600 ATC fuse block just as you are thinking of doing. The block as it comes does not have a negative terminal. 1/4-20 if I recall.

That's good to know. I thought that was the case, since I couldn't find one with grounds for under $60. Thanks for confirming.

You can use any switched positive wire to power the relay.

I'm sure that sounds elementary, if you know your way around the bike's electrical system, but I don't. I wouldn't even be butt-hurt if someone were to point and say "that one right there, dumbass", especially if they pointed at a wire in the battery box that I could use without taking off any more body panels.
 
The best place to get switched power (on when ignition is on) = from turn signal/hazard relay. It is accessible when only frunk lock panel removed. Pink/Blue wire AFAIR.
But you can't use it to power anything power hungry! Only to wire it to your relay!
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The best place to get high power + is from starter relay. There is handy bolted terminal. And please do not forget to add inline fuse to your wire going to relay too.
276MKDv.png


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I don't like the quick splice connectors, sometimes called "Scotch-loks," because the internal blade is cutting a long slice through the insulation and sometimes the wire! To me those were designed for the trailer & motorhome industry. There are also some motorcycle specific ones called Posi-Lock that may (?) work OK for inline joints but do a lousy job with a wire junction where you need to create a T. One of the problems with these are the teeny wires fitted to modern motorcycles, such as the NC, which makes it difficult for the internal spike to find the wire.

I used the hot side of the front brake switch to act as my switched power for the relay. My accessory panel lives inside that battery access cover so it made for only a short run of wire plus it was not visible once everything was bundled with the factory ties. I'm Old School so I soldered the joint and covered it with heat shrink tubing. On previous bikes, I mounted the accessory fuse panel to the rear of the bike so I always used a hot wire for the taillight.
 
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The best place to get high power + is from starter relay. There is handy bolted terminal. And please do not forget to add inline fuse to your wire going to relay too.

Is this it?
20161109_101225.jpg
Neither is labeled + or -, which one is hot?
Is that too much power to use for a relay signal?
Should I / could I just omit the relay and use this to power the fuse block?
 
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Is this it?
Neither is labeled + or -, which one is hot?
Is that too much power to use for a relay signal?
Should I / could I just omit the relay and use this to power the fuse block?

Yes, this is the place. Which one of the bolts you need? It is easy to find out. Just get any multimeter/tester/buzzer/ohmmeter and find which of the bolts is on the same wire with big red + on the left from the battery. Or trace the wire going to battery - this is easy. Find the one connected straight to the battery terminal.
Uncnj9H.png


You can power the fuse block from it BUT it will be "working" and powered all the time, not only when you turn the key on, thus sucking all the juice from the battery even when you don't want it!
I will draw you a scheme how to wire high powered devices only when ignition is on.
 
Did my best! :eek:
I will try to explain how it works.
You need high gauge AWG from any + terminal. You can wire it straight to battery for the best results, but it is not quite handy, so you can get it from starter relay bolt.
You need automotive ISO relay - better with 40A current rating, with resistor inside, and waterproof preferably.
Connect + from starter relay to 30 pin on your relay via FUSE! If your relay is 40A, then you need wire that can handle 50A and you choose proper fuse that your fuse block can handle!
So, if you've got 40A relay and your fuse block can handle 40A better to use 30A fuse to be on the safe side.
Now, you can connect same wire that can handle up to 50A from pin 87 to your fuse block.
Wire pink/blue from hazard relay (or any other wire which has + only when ignition is ON) to the 85 pin on your relay, and any good ground wire to 86 pin. Wire gauge should be the same as pink/blue on the hazard relay.
p.s.: you can use 4 pin relay and 5 pin relay, just isolate 87A pin properly when using 5 pin version.
Pnw7YRu.png


Relay indicating it has a resistor inside:
Kth1K28.png
 
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update on this project:

Now that all the parts I wanted to install are here and finally installed, I thought I'd post some pics of the final product:

20161120_014030.jpg

Here's the installed fuse block above, you can see the relay tucked up in the space to the right

20161120_195319.jpg

That bundle of wrapped wires is the back of this switch that I mounted on the battery compartment cover.

20161120_195422.jpg

That switch turns on the lights in the bottom of my frunk. I think they add just the right amount of glow from underneath to find stuff in the bottom.
 
update on this project:

Now that all the parts I wanted to install are here and finally installed, I thought I'd post some pics of the final product:

Here's the installed fuse block above, you can see the relay tucked up in the space to the right

That bundle of wrapped wires is the back of this switch that I mounted on the battery compartment cover.

That switch turns on the lights in the bottom of my frunk. I think they add just the right amount of glow from underneath to find stuff in the bottom.

Are you sure such install will not interfere with air filter replacement procedure?
 
Well then have a look in air filter replacement thread and find youtube video - make sure before you made final decisions! There is a short version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXEyliHP0wo
And I've seen better like 3 parts version with comments but can't find it right now.

That looks like a royal PITA just to change an air filter. I mounted the fuse block and relay with velcro instead of screws and built in a service loop in the wiring to give me enough slack to put them back in the frunk if I have to get at anything behind them. I hope that helps.
 
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Honestly I went with the octopus connector from Honda when I set up the 12v. There are other leads that act as a fuse block and its a clean install. Look up the bideo on youtube about installing a 12v connector and you will see what i am talking about
 
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