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Homemade farkels/accessories thread

Your best bet is to go with the rear rack support arms like the 1111FZ from Givi or equivilent from other manufacturer. Hand making that part in a safe, good looking and inexpensive would probably not be worth your time or effort.

Givi 1111FZ Top Case Support Brackets Honda NC700X 2012-2015 | 10% ($11.20) Off! - RevZilla

From there you have a flat surface which you can attach anything you want and that is where your DIY can run free

Pro Tip: Givi part numbers with 1111 in them are for 2012-2015 NC700, and 1146 is for 2016+

Sometimes I explore Motostorm.it and Japanese / Italian websites with 1146 to find Givi parts not yet available in the USA....


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The only problem with it is I can't raise my leg enough to get on the bike if I actually use this rack for it's intended purpose. The only way I can get on is by swinging my leg over the rear seat while leaning my upper body way forward, I broke my right leg 50 years ago, Army Docs put a pin in it but I still have a limited range of motion with it, plus I'm getting old.


Try throwing your right heel on to the seat where you sit then pushing your foot until it falls over the opposite side. It doesn't look cool, but it works.

Also, this method is handy for times when you have a bundle packed and sitting on top of the rear seat.
 
I built this rack with fuel hole that replaces the rear seat out of scrap wood that I had on hand.
View attachment 35872View attachment 35873

The only problem with it is I can't raise my leg enough to get on the bike if I actually use this rack for it's intended purpose. The only way I can get on is by swinging my leg over the rear seat while leaning my upper body way forward, I broke my right leg 50 years ago, Army Docs put a pin in it but I still have a limited range of motion with it, plus I'm getting old.
Nice! So does it still open? Have any more pics? I'd be interested to see. Was thinking of doing something similar.

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Being a complete computer dummy I have no idea how to quote a previous post, so in reply to flyinfree.00 Yes it does still open, here's some more photos.

P1040570.jpg

P1040621.jpg

P1040624.jpg

It not longer latches down, but that's not been a problem as I sit far enough to the rear that my butt is in the way of it flying open while riding.

When working under the seat area put a rag down so that when you drop something it won't disappear into the bowels of the bike.
 
In reply to StratTuner post, I have used what you suggest and it is awkward and clumsy, my main problem with it is I just can't get my leg high enough to get it over the seat, especially when I'm wearing my more bulky riding gear. And getting off is even harder and really awkward.
I've read all the posts about how different members get on and off and watched OCR's video of how he does it but none of them seem to work for me. I don't trust stepping up on to the footpeg while it's on the sidestand.
In one of those previous discussions some one suggested making a sliding rack that would move back, I don't remember now what the thread title was but it got me to thinking and I did build something that worked. It was rather ugly and I wasn't real happy with the fact that it put all the weight on the GIVI rear support arms.

All the way Forward
P6080021.jpg

All the way to the rear
P6080029.jpg

Actually it will go farther back it just doesn't need to. I used 16" heavy duty drawer slides (rated for 100 lbs) but I have them horizontal rather than vertical so I wasn't sure they would still hold that much weight, they will extend the whole 16" but I only needed 8" of travel.
 
Thats a cool rack Dennis! Doesnt it slide around when you're riding (because of the drawer slides) or is it locked up using a pin or something like that to keep it from sliding?
 
Thats a cool rack Dennis! Doesnt it slide around when you're riding (because of the drawer slides) or is it locked up using a pin or something like that to keep it from sliding?

That's something I've been trying to figure out how to do.
The drawer slides have a catch in them that takes a little bit of effort to pull them out, when you pull them out there's a spring for the first 2 or 3 inches that sort of holds them, then the spring releases and they slide freely, when you push it back in and it gets to where the catch is holding the spring then the spring pulls the slide all the closed.
I suppose it would be possible for wind pressure on whatever I had on the rack to cause it to slide back, I don't know as I have never carried anything on it, just ridden with nothing on it.

The lower half is bolted to the GIVI rear rack arms and sticks out over where the rear seat would normally be just enough that I can't open the seat with it on there so I want to make something to cover that area.

P5200041.jpg
This is what I would like to carry on it https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Tr...75035&wl11=online&wl12=22716933&wl13=&veh=sem

GIVI has a kit the just comes with the pyramid clamp and 2 mushroom things for making your own mounting for their boxes (I've used one before for a bike that they don't make stuff for) I've thought about getting one to mount my Kappa box on this. Here is a photo of it just sitting on it.
P5200043.jpg
 
If you can fabricate a pin like the SW motech quick lock evo, you might be able to lock it in place and keep it from sliding :)
Something like this:
4aOxa0W.png



I thought that Givi and Kappa are the same brand, where Kappa is a bit cheaper, but harder to find (well yeah, in my area it is)
 
I've read all the posts about how different members get on and off and watched OCR's video of how he does it but none of them seem to work for me. I don't trust stepping up on to the footpeg while it's on the sidestand.

I am a short guy (5'7" - 170lbs - 65years) and Skookum (my bike) always carries a top box. The only way I climb aboard is by standing on the left footpeg and swinging a leg over the top box while the bike is on the sidestand. I commute nearly every day so I climb on and off the bike 2-6 times a day and have never had a problem with this mounting process. The sidestand can certainly handle it.
>Thom
 
Ditto here. Also, I've seen video, and even did it myself, of leaning the NC towards me and balancing it on the kickstand to pivot around in tight spots.

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My luck I’d be the unlucky lead butt who collapses the side stand and breaks his freaking leg.
 
I've read all the posts about how different members get on and off and watched OCR's video of how he does it but none of them seem to work for me. I don't trust stepping up on to the footpeg while it's on the sidestand.

I am a short guy (5'7" - 170lbs - 65years) and Skookum (my bike) always carries a top box. The only way I climb aboard is by standing on the left footpeg and swinging a leg over the top box while the bike is on the sidestand. I commute nearly every day so I climb on and off the bike 2-6 times a day and have never had a problem with this mounting process. The sidestand can certainly handle it.
>Thom

I do the same here (5'7 150lbs). I always use a Givi V46 topcase for daily commute. I stand on left footpeg and swing right leg over the seat with bend kenn. So I don't swing the leg all the way over the topcase, but instead right in front of it.
 
Allright, today my fake RAM mount came in the mail.
Did some mods right away because the surface that the ball should grab was a bit slippery for my taste, so I've roughened them up a bit with some 80 grit sandpaper, and now it holds perfectly :)

Pics!!
2KUWeR3.jpg


sQoMesl.jpg


t6OS7HO.jpg


Again here is how it works: the charging cable (USB C) is a lot more stronger than micro USB and Lightning, so I can make it work as a pin that holds the phone in.
The rest is just friction mount and it can only be taken out when your finger is pushed from the back through the finger push hole.
HArdmav.jpg


Edit:
I've bought a legit RAM arm because the real ones are from cast iron, and they are 1000x stronger than the chinese plastic one. However, the ram balls are perfect!
The real RAM arm also has a knob for tweaking :)
 
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Rear seat box

I’m sure this is covered elsewhere but here is my rear seat box.

The U shape of the box and Rotopax are supportive and not uncomfortable on my lower back.

I bought the Apache box at Harbor Freight for about $34 w/20%coupon.
 

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