W
westgl
Not a good idea to install a high load device like a horn without a relay
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
Not a good idea to install a high load device like a horn without a relay
I removed the OEM pip-squeak horn and installed a Fiamm Blaster in the air space under the right hand air duct. It is plenty loud for a MC horn. There is lots of space here for bigger horns or to add a second Fiamm. All that was required for this mod was to make up a duplex lead to bring the horn wires up to the new location. I covered the white 16/2 duplex cable with black plastic wire loom that looks like the OEM harness that runs down to the stock horn location.
Snipped...QUOTE]
I know this is an old thread but I have to say thank you for posting this. I now know where I'm going to put the large original Screaming Banshee horn I got through a Kickstarter or Indiegogo campaign. The thing is huge, mounted to a T shaped steel bar, about eight inches long IIRC.
I know this is an old thread but I have to say thank you for posting this. I now know where I'm going to put the large original Screaming Banshee horn I got through a Kickstarter or Indiegogo campaign. The thing is huge, mounted to a T shaped steel bar, about eight inches long IIRC.
I just dug up this very old thread while researching installing new dual horns on my bike.The harness for the left handlebar control is a difficult place to access the wires. It is a single 14-pin connector that is frame mounted. The best way from what I could determine was to use the wires to the stock horn as the relay power, since they would otherwise be abandoned anyway. You do not have to locate the relay where the original horn was in order to use its wires to power it. You can use flat blade terminals to connect to the horn wires and extend the wires up to whatever location you wish to place the relay. The relay will usually work without any reference to coil polarity - unless there is a tamping diode in the circuit. If you are using a normal Bosch style relay, the coils are numbered 85 and 86. To be safe from a possible diode issue, connect the positive to terminal 85 and the ground to terminal 86. The fused power should be attached to terminal 30 and the load to the new horn should be attached to terminal 87. The terminal 87a is not used.
Here is a "cartoon style" wiring diagram I found on the 'net. For our horns, refer only to the top diagram and only the circuit for the green light. The switch is your horn button and the green light is your horn or horns.
View attachment 904
In the US market, the fairings were redesigned for the 2016 model year. The engine displacement bump occurred for 2018, two years later. I don’t know how it played out in Canada.I assume that the NC fairings were redesigned when the bike went from a 700X to a 750X?
In 2016 we got the 750X introduced.In the US market, the fairings were redesigned for the 2016 model year. The engine displacement bump occurred for 2018, two years later. I don’t know how it played out in Canada.
Very interested in your seat risers and fuse block location.Now I will have room for the fuse block under the very front of the seat, as well as fixing the even more important complaint of the downward slope of the seat.
I'll be posting more links to videos I'm taking as my mods progress.
That's too bad as there was a lot of useful space inside the side cowls and air ducts. Price of fashion I suppose.I'll start a new thread soon about installing horns and relay on a 2016 and newer NCX750.
This thread only applies to NC's older than model year 2016.
The fairings are completely different.
From my initial stripping of the fairings on my '20, there is nowhere to mount a fuse block, horns, or relays anywhere in or on the side covers.
The only spot for a fuse block or relay is for them to be velcro'd on top of the very front of the fuel tank, but likely only if the driver seat is raised up at least an inch at the front of the seat where it clips under a bracket.